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Blown turbo...!

Mine is a Garrett.....but a reman one!....so its anyone's guess who made the CHRA !! Its got a two year warranty.....so worth a risk for what I paid. If I had to pay someone else to fit it I might have paid for a potentially higher quality one.
 
My breather looks like this....is there another breather in metal in the same area?? Did not notice it....will look later.
View attachment 164003
Same as mine , if you look at the thread pictures it’s the part that attaches to the large round plastic section of the pcv . The part becomes damaged by heat and loses its seal tightness .
 
This video looks helpful and realistic.....looks like someone whos not done a turbo on this model....like me!!....as he takes a while to realise where the lower mounting bolts are! Its a 280...but virtually identical. Just a pity that the clamp on my downpipe/cat is so much further down than on the 280 where its right by the turbo!! Looks just about reachable though.

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Don’t forget to check the swirl flaps and motor, whilst the turbo is out of the way.
 
Swirl flaps are good....oil cooler seals were done a couple of years back.
Any advantage (performance or otherwise) to disconnecting the flaps from the flap motor while I'm there, moving the flaps to the open position and leaving the motor working to fool the ECU.....or as its working is it best to leave it.
 
New turbo arrived....looks good, with no noticeable lateral or radial play... unlike the current one with about a foot of play! Rubbish unboxing shot attached!.... came with a full fitting kit too so all new bolts and gaskets.
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You can leave the flaps open, and fit a bypass plug, Sprinters don’t even have them on their OM642 engine.
 
Quick question to those that have done an OM642 turbo.....how did you prime it?
On other turbos I have just filled the oil inlet until it came out of the exit then fitted it. But obviously on these that won't work as both the inlet and outlet are underneath the turbo so the oil will run out when being fitted. I'm guess that you filled from the top bolt in the CHRA after assembly (which i assume links up with the bearing!).....I'm thinking I will syringe oil into there whilst turning the compressor by hand until it feels lubed and then hope the oil gets there quickly after starting. On one other car I just held the turbo stationary with a wooden stick whilst someone else started the car then released it after a few seconds when I knew there would be oil there.
As usual any knowledge welcome.
 
Quick question to those that have done an OM642 turbo.....how did you prime it?
On other turbos I have just filled the oil inlet until it came out of the exit then fitted it. But obviously on these that won't work as both the inlet and outlet are underneath the turbo so the oil will run out when being fitted. I'm guess that you filled from the top bolt in the CHRA after assembly (which i assume links up with the bearing!).....I'm thinking I will syringe oil into there whilst turning the compressor by hand until it feels lubed and then hope the oil gets there quickly after starting. On one other car I just held the turbo stationary with a wooden stick whilst someone else started the car then released it after a few seconds when I knew there would be oil there.
As usual any knowledge welcome.

Pouring oil into the oil filter housing , gets to the turbo afaik from videos I've watched.
 
You can leave the flaps open, and fit a bypass plug, Sprinters don’t even have them on their OM642 engine.
ALFAitalia I have one of these bypass plugs if you want it? bought it for mine when i had one never fitted it, let me know if you want it PM me your address and ill post it to you for free even Dave
 
Thanks.... but I've got a few 4.7k resistors if I get issues. Not sure if I should with no swirl problems.
 
Thanks.... but I've got a few 4.7k resistors if I get issues. Not sure if I should with no swirl problems.
It’s an easy retrofit to add the resistor , if it’s all working just leave as is I reckon . Put a resistor in you car glovebox just in case .
 
Ok....so stage one complete ...turbo is out. Stage two next Friday!!

It all went pretty smoothly.....the parts I thought would be an issue, which were bolts that attach the turbo to the exhaust manifolds, all came out pretty easily, contrary to many YT videos ....one of the skinny ones on the corrugated EGR pipe felt like it was going to snap as was tight all the way out....but I got lucky.
The only issue was one I did not expect....the star headed bolts (that hold the turbo to the head mounted oil feed block through the CHRA)........a combination of very shallow stars and a bit of rust meant that they rounded off with next to no presure....so had to be drilled....see last pic. Funny how bolts that soft and easy to damage turn into the worlds hardest substance when you try to drill them out!!

If anyone has the same issue then DIY it....its not a bad job....as long as you have no back issues....I'm quite glad I did not have enough time to fit the new one......bent over all that time working down the back of the motor does you no good!!

Will add pics in a minute when my phone decides to play ball!!

Needs a clean up before the new one goes in.

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No snapped manifold bolts!!...a minor miracle!

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The bits that came out...EGR and sensor only removed to make space and avoid damage.

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Hot end looked OK....but had about 5mm play in and out.....

1000012387.jpg

....cold end.....not so much!....damaged blades and lots of play in all directions...the blades have hit the walls.

1000012386.jpg

Drilled out bolts.....too soft for the job....yet also hard as diamond!!

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Ok....so stage one complete ...turbo is out. Stage two next Friday!!

It all went pretty smoothly.....the parts I thought would be an issue, which were bolts that attach the turbo to the exhaust manifolds, all came out pretty easily, contrary to many YT videos ....one of the skinny ones on the corrugated EGR pipe felt like it was going to snap as was tight all the way out....but I got lucky.
The only issue was one I did not expect....the star headed bolts that hold the turbo to the head mounted oil feed block through the CHRA....a combination of very shallow stars and a bit of rust mean that they rounded off with next to no presure....so had to be drilled....see last pic. Funny how bolts that soft and easy to damage turn into the worlds hardest substance when you try to drill them out!!

If anyone has the same issue then DIY it....its not a bad job....as long as you have no back issues....I'm quite glad I did not have enough time to fit the new one......bent over all that time working down the back of the motor does you no good!!

Will add pics in a minute when my phone decides to play ball!!

Bingo!

Needs a clean up before the new goes in.
View attachment 164085

No snapped manifold bolts!!...a minor miracle!

View attachment 164086

The bits that came out...EGR and sensor only removed to make space and avoid damage.

View attachment 164088

Hot end looked OK....but had about 5mm play in and out.....

View attachment 164089

....cold end.....not so much!....damaged blades and lots of play in all directions...the blades have hit the walls.

View attachment 164090

Drilled out bolts.....too soft for the job....yet also hard as diamond to drill!!

View attachment 164091
Wow that impeller is a mess.
 
Any advantage (performance or otherwise) to disconnecting the flaps from the flap motor while I'm there, moving the flaps to the open position and leaving the motor working to fool the ECU.....or as its working is it best to leave it.
I came across tests done by Ricardo where the swirl ratio was varied. Below the required value the torque and fuel efficiency fell away significantly.
I thought you were better than a bodger but I guess not if you are considering it.
 
Nope...I'm not doing it... but might have considered it if there was a performance or efficiency gain!
 
Well done! Now for a beer /wine /😁👍
 

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