boost and boost gauge help!!

[NW_Merc]

Ahh i see, ill go check the maf now, just changed oil, filter and fuel filter anyway, if maf is bad does anyone know where i can get one for less than £180? Best price i can find

I thought eurocarparts did them for £150?

 

[e300]

They quoted me £160 + vat on wednesday, they were cheapest, one place wanted about 190 + vat! Just checked pin 5, 2.05 when cars running, 4.03 at full throttle, is that about right?

 

[Dieselman]

They quoted me £160 + vat on wednesday, they were cheapest, one place wanted about 190 + vat! Just checked pin 5, 2.05 when cars running, 4.03 at full throttle, is that about right?

Full revs with or without boost?

Sounds right for no boost.

 

[e300]

Id say no boost, the car was in park but i couldnt see the boost guage and the multimeter at the same time, whats the chances of it being the boost sensor? And with my egr vacume hose disconnected and plugged, shoudnt that put the eml on? Because it hasnt and the cars running as normal

 

[Dieselman]

It won't have boost unless driving under power, so ~4v is about right.

 

[e300]

So maf seems good? Where else could i look for the low boost, all hoses seem ok, had new air and fuel filters, what about boost sensor?

 

[Dieselman]

what about boost sensor?

Possible, they do play up occasionally.

 

[e300]

Is there a way to test that other than getting a new one? Thanks for all the help so far

 

[Dieselman]

Is there a way to test that other than getting a new one? Thanks for all the help so far

Technically, yes, but I don't have the output voltage for the different boost pressures.

 

[Olivier]

Your wastegate transducer might be faulty too?
You could swap the one from the EGR to the wastegate, they are the same, but the bugger is that if the ECU see the EGR is malfunctioning ( bad transducer) it will also cut out the boost.
I think if you could do the EGR delete to start with it would be good, then from there swap the transducers if the problem still occur, but you might be lucky
Also, maybe, just put a new hose for the boost sensor, it might be craked and again this will only show under pressure, something you will not be able to see unless you have a mad friend that will be looking at it under the hood while the car would be moving fast...
I, meself, will also put back the boost gauge on the "new" car again soon to see what is the boost pressure with and without the MAF. I am pretty sure with a bad MAF its only about 1PSI only tho...But I will try with and without.
You might have bad connections on the MAF too, if you don't want to fork out 160 quids for a new MAF, check again post #6

 

[e300]

I swapped the transducers the other night and it didnt help so you think i should go with maf and/or egr delete next? After i swap the hose to boost sensor which im going to try now, if i do the deletes, ive seen the diagram but could you help explain it to me? And i guess i could get the resistors and stuff from maplins?

 

[Olivier]

I am not good with electronic, DM could help you there on the EGR delete, he had a post on it and he nicely help me there too.
then go for the EGR delete first, if you still have some bugger go with the MAF delete. Those two are really cheap to do.
If this is not working I could only suggest a STAR reading/ erasing, its 50 quids from MB but it will tell you what is wrong. You could also start with it before any other things. It was the best 50 quids I spend on the car as after 6 months searching for gremlins and electronics buggers, changing as many switches as I could, the STAR erased all the buggers, for 50 quids... You could also find out what is wrong, EGR or MAF or both, but then the fix is really cheap.
Olivier

 

[Dieselman]

Follow this thread and all should be revealed.

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/68098-diesel-egr-delete-mod.html

 

[e300]

Ahh great just got the bits but to confirm, do i cut the cables or just kinda 'T' into them?

 

[Dieselman]

Ahh great just got the bits but to confirm, do i cut the cables or just kinda 'T' into them?

Bare the insulation then solder on and cover, then disconnect the EGR modulator.

 

[e300]

Disconnect by just unplugging? And is that the thing i know as a transducer? Can i leave it in so i dont have to get power from ecu? If i understood your link properly, also im very impressed with your plumbing knowlage, im a plumber myself

 

[Dieselman]

Disconnect by just unplugging? And is that the thing i know as a transducer? Can i leave it in so i dont have to get power from ecu? If i understood your link properly, also im very impressed with your plumbing knowlage, im a plumber myself

Aww..Gee...


The transducer is the modulator, just unplug and tape up.

 

[e300]

Ok thanks, starting it now, which way round should the diode be? Band at resister side or egr side? Also i saw a thread of yours earlier about egr delete about 20 pages long, the design on there is different, will this one still work? Seems to be missing the extra live? And 1000 resister?

 

[e300]

Just put this in and blocked hose to the egr, if it doesnt go into no turbo mode is it done? Or do i need the 12v supply? The transducer is still plugged in as theres no turbo with it unplugged, even if it doesnt help get my full boost will i notice its worked?

 

[Olivier]

just to say I put up the boost gauge and I am only getting 10Psi on flat and 13Psi up hill, but I got a fuel restriction, need to change the fuel filter, then I guess once done I'll be more like 15 psi? Hopefully...