Brabus D4 Fitment Instructions.

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A 2359 is the best value upgrade and least hassle. It's easy to get carried away with hybrids/sizes etc (believe me) when the outcome can be a marginal difference! Make sure the basics are good first of all, clear exhaust, clean inlet manifold, intercooler and pipe work all good. The elbow pipe from the turbo to the air box is a common fault, check it's not cracked in the ridges. Also make sure the MAF is good before installing the brabus box.
 
Wilco Bud,

I do like the idea of the 2359 but want to get my knowledge on remapping scrubbed up before committing to upgrades which require third party assistance. I'm keen to do some basic remapping using generic tunes initially than building up to some home brew tunes. It's an exciting prospect but I fear the ML270 doesn't lend itself to OBD2 remapping. Any advice on hardware and software which is optimised for the ML270 would be greatly appreciated.
 
Let us know how you get on with the turbo and brabus box? Once we got the few bits sorted on our ML270, it fairly moves along and has no problems with a 16ft trailer behind it.
 
Ahhhh Mate,

Her towing prowess is something to behold.

I got 3 years of wood in one big load which certainly tested her. I noticed her temperature going up in heavy traffic with some hills thrown in for good measure, but she settled in beautifully on the motorway. I've done some vehicle towing with her and found that over and above IW trailers being amazing this wagon is born to tow. A/C on, cruise control set, and overtaking power still available when needed.

I'm actually more keen to sort the transmission TCU out but have been informed that a lot of the shifting issues seem to rectify themselves with the power increase.

As you said I'm going to go through her entire respiratory system first then up the ponies. The CHRA should be here in the next few days, I'm fitting a catch can as I believe the pcv is partly to blame for the turbo deterioration as well as the constant intake manifold gunge. Then egr resistor pack as per Dieselmans guidance. Then see how she feels. I think the swirl flaps can stay so long as the EGR and PCV aren't doing thier classic role of contaminating the entire intake manifold with crap but I may have convinced myself that they are OK mainly because the manifold removal process is going to burgle many hours of my life.
 
It might be worth checking your radiator and make sure all is clear. Temps should stay fairly constant even with 2 or 3 ton behind. What shifting issues are you having?
 
I actually have recently done a full radiator flush. Quite a lot of crap came out. This was spurred on because the thermostat had failed open. Behr thermostat was installed (I believe that's oem) and I flushed it until clear fluid came out. The whole vehicle improved. When I say hot I mean hotter than normal. She sits Bang on 87°C everywhere and with a solid 3t load she crept up to 90°C. Certainly not enough to concern me but in my mind justified as the transmission cooler also has a a heat exchange within the the cooling system.
 
It does amaze me that the 270 is the baby of its class as I find it really is a good performer on a number of fronts.
 
But to answer your question, the transmission I find to be quite lazy in its demeanour. Definitely improved in tiptronic but even than just a bit unintuitive in its thought process. I think I would like the TC to lockout earlier in the revrange and a faster response to kickdown when requested. As stated I can and do work around the problem a lot with the tiptronic but would prefer a bit more positivity rather than Chelsea tractor don't spill my latte.
 
I have also done a full transmission, Filter change, connector replacement, new gasket and flush including TC, thank you this forum for the guidance, but mercedes with the 722.6 have opted for bulletproof reliability and power resilience over performance shifting and drive engagement.

Once again there are gains to be had but I will continue on that journey once the lump has been dealt with.
 
I was just about to say the auto trans might benefit from a fluid and filter change. It's definitely no harm for the brabus box. It'll be interesting to see how the brabus box effects it!
 
Yep, unfortunately I have done a number of repairs which were achieved by knowledge gleaned off this site.

To be fair a majority were well documented so figured when I came across a problem I haven't seen I would post so here I am.
 
Hope you didn't think I was refering to the thread- I meant I had posted in error in the D4 thread instead of the D6 one.
 
Ahhhh fair one. No dramas either way. I certainly haven't been adding any value back from all that I have received.
 
I actually had a go at trying to remove and rebuild the turbo this evening. All I can say is that I have now set the record for the longest and most unorthodox oil change ever. The reason being is that the bolts between turbo and exhaust manifold were seized. Since the oil was already out, it then got replaced. So, other than a good cleanup everywhere and an oil change it was an annoying 6 hours of fighting with my truck. Me 0 truck 1!
 
Did you give the bolts a good spray before a rematch to try and get them off another time? I know on my c250, I had a similar issue so removed the turbo and manifold together to get it on the bench,
 
It's like you're in my mind. I'm going to get it on a lift when I get a chance. There be more real estate available from the wheel well. I figured get the cat off then I'll have more access, the manifold will be next if heat and access don't work.

The issue is amplified on the front bolt because of the coolant pipe going to the alternator. Can anyone explain the need for an alternator plumbed into the cooling system, especially one which is regulated to 87°C?
 
So the ordeal continues. Turbo rebuilt and fitted as well as cat cleaned with oven cleaner. Long story short, no smoke, a span of power and much better fuel economy.
 

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