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Breaking a W124

ABS light may be a dodgy wheel sensor? Stalling- try cleaning the throat of the throttle body+the edge of the throttle plate with some solvent.
 
Haven't sorted the stalling problem as yet, but fiddling with the ABS sensor on the wheel makes the light go out. When I find a breaker-bar long enough to undo the wheel nuts, I'll try to remove the sensor, clean it properly and sort the wiring.

Another problem I've been trying to sort is a vibration at 60mph+. It's just about detectable at 50mph and gets more severe the faster you go.

From topics on here, I know there are a few things to check, but I'm not sure what's the best order!

-Wheel balancing (it has four brand-new tyres)

-Propshaft centre bearing (or from forum searches the rear diff?)

-Suspension bushes (the nearside front wishbone bush looks a little dated, but doesn't move at all if you give it a good pull...)

I've also given it a thorough clean inside, under and out, and checked all the usual rust spots.There's a small amount of corrosion on the front inner wings by the ABS gubbins and washer bottle (to go with the corrosion on the front outer wings!), but everything else (rear arches and jacking points) seems to be super solid! Some liberal application of POR15 and Waxoil next week will hopefully see to the stop of any further rust.

I dare say that having some sort of workshop manual might help me to sort all of these little jobs without having to search the forum - is there one online, or am I best looking for a Haynes?
 
It's all over, although a small amount does come through the wheel. It feels the same as when you drive over rumble strips when coming up to a roundabout, but at 60mph!
 
Mmmm- could be propshaft couplings-- or centre bearing/mount-- diff mount--- engine or gearbox mounts. The crucial check suspension wise are the front outer bottom ball joints [ replaceable except on the sportlines] failure of either of these could be catastrophic- they are always checked at MOT time but some MOT's are better than others.:rolleyes: Best thing is to get the car up on a ramp with a good inspection lamp and have a good look around underneath.
 
Here's the troublesome beast at home!

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I had it up on ramps earlier and bar the aforementioned nearside wishbone (?) bushes which look a little tired, everything front suspension wise seemed to either be new or in good solid condition!

Having been for a motorway drive at speeds slightly exceeding the 60mph I'd chickened out of previously, the vibration doesn't seem that bad. It doesn't seem to be any worse at 70mph+, and all but disappears when not accelerating! I don't know if this indicates anything in particular?
 
Lovely looking Estate. So pleased you are getting it sorted. Its a slow but sure path and once fettled it will pay you back many times.
 
When I had the car up on ramps again today, I noticed that there's play in the steering damper. You can move the two parts of the damper piston sideways independent of each other, as if it's worn inside. It's NOT smooth and without play like a suspension shock absorber normally is.

Don't know if that'll cause me any problems? They seem to be quite cheap new though.
 
When I had the car up on ramps again today, I noticed that there's play in the steering damper. You can move the two parts of the damper piston sideways independent of each other, as if it's worn inside. It's NOT smooth and without play like a suspension shock absorber normally is.

Don't know if that'll cause me any problems? They seem to be quite cheap new though.

SOUNDS AS IF ITS CLAPPED OUT! They go on a regular basis- As often as every 30K miles--- lots of road grit to eat into the seals- makes a huge difference to the steering "feel" -----one captive bolt and one nut+bolt to remove replace easy DIY on a ramp they are about £30 made by Stabilus ECP stock em as do MB at a reasonable price
 
Wicked - I'll get that done today!
 

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