Cleaning The Engine.

[ringway]

Does TRF stand for Traffic Film Remover?

EDIT for follow up question;

How do you apply it? Brush? Spray? Cloth?

Yes, traffic film remover. A decent strength 200-1 or higher.

No brushing or wiping, just spray on reasonably liberally and leave on for 3-4 minutes and then jet wash making sure not to force water into anything electrical. Today's engines really are pretty water-tight, though, so I'd be surprised if you had any problems. Just a bit of common sense is required.

It would be hard work, and crucially, take time applying the TFR with a trigger bottle spray. The golden rule with TFR is not to let the product dry one the surfaces.
A pressurised sprayer delivering quick application is the best option, preferrably one with a lance like the one in the link below.

LINK.

I have used varying grades of TFR over the past 35 years or so and buy it in 25ltr drums, but that's a lot of solution to use up if you are only doing an engine now and again.

If you need a litre of so, I can send to you if you wish.

 

[Londonscottish]

Yes, traffic film remover. A decent strength 200-1 or higher.

No brushing or wiping, just spray on reasonably liberally and leave on for 3-4 minutes and then jet wash making sure not to force water into anything electrical. Today's engines really are pretty water-tight, though, so I'd be surprised if you had any problems. Just a bit of common sense is required.

It would be hard work, and crucially, take time applying the TFR with a trigger bottle spray. The golden rule with TFR is not to let the product dry one the surfaces.
A pressurised sprayer delivering quick application is the best option, preferrably one with a lance like the one in the link below.

LINK.

I have used varying grades of TFR over the past 35 years or so and buy it in 25ltr drums, but that's a lot of solution to use up if you are only doing an engine now and again.

If you need a litre of so, I can send to you if you wish.

Cool and thanks for the info and the offer - very kind.

I've got a spare sprayer like that to hand and have some TFR arriving tomorrow.

I can't wait to do this!

 

[ringway]

Cool and thanks for the info and the offer - very kind.

I've got a spare sprayer like that to hand and have some TFR arriving tomorrow.

I can't wait to do this!

If can pass on just a couple of thing to help.

Decide if you are going to clean the just the engine or are going to include the underside of the bonnet.

If tackling the underside of the bonnet, decide if you will clean the sound insulation.
The insulation will be mucky and be prepared for black drips from the bottom edge for a while - mopping periodically with a towel or similar helps.
If the car is old, you may wish to avoid washing the insulation, because it becomes fragile with age and may already be detached in places.

Your car has the facility to put the bonnet in the service position. This is a big advantage because the drips will go toward the scuttle/bottom of the screen area and not on the nice clean engine if you wash both around the same time.

Be mindful of TFR overspray on to the wings etc. Wash this away whilst the chemical gets to work on the engine and check for further runs of TFR before leaving to dry..

The most important thing is NOT to let the TFR dry on any surface. It's not the end of the world if it does, but isn't a good idea.

Jet wash in ALL directions - left/right, right/left, front/back and even back/front to ensure all the TFR is removed.
The jet washing and then distance rinsing should take circa 4-5 minutes.

If you have compressed air to hand, it will be a bonus to blast away water that collects in any areas where it will pool.

A warm, breezy day is good for drying.

You may well be happy with the results without applying (when the engine is dry) the Turtle Wax Fresh Shine, but this product really does enhance the outcome and lasts pretty well.
Just use your own idea for application. As you apply the product, you'll soon get the hang of how much to apply as you go along.

Good luck!

 

[ringway]

Ooh, if washing the underside of the bonnet, check/rinse the reverse side for runs of TFR.

 

[Londonscottish]

If can pass on just a couple of thing to help.

Decide if you are going to clean the just the engine or are going to include the underside of the bonnet.

If tackling the underside of the bonnet, decide if you will clean the sound insulation.
The insulation will be mucky and be prepared for black drips from the bottom edge for a while - mopping periodically with a towel or similar helps.
If the car is old, you may wish to avoid washing the insulation, because it becomes fragile with age and may already be detached in places.

Your car has the facility to put the bonnet in the service position. This is a big advantage because the drips will go toward the scuttle/bottom of the screen area and not on the nice clean engine if you wash both around the same time.

Be mindful of TFR overspray on to the wings etc. Wash this away whilst the chemical gets to work on the engine and check for further runs of TFR before leaving to dry..

The most important thing is NOT to let the TFR dry on any surface. It's not the end of the world if it does, but isn't a good idea.

Jet wash in ALL directions - left/right, right/left, front/back and even back/front to ensure all the TFR is removed.
The jet washing and then distance rinsing should take circa 4-5 minutes.

If you have compressed air to hand, it will be a bonus to blast away water that collects in any areas where it will pool.

A warm, breezy day is good for drying.

You may well be happy with the results without applying (when the engine is dry) the Turtle Wax Fresh Shine, but this product really does enhance the outcome and lasts pretty well.
Just use your own idea for application. As you apply the product, you'll soon get the hang of how much to apply as you go along.

Good luck!

I hadn't thought of the underside of the bonnet - will have a look at that today.

Thanks for all the tips. Other than giving the plastic engine cover and a few pipes a quick wipedown I've never really tackled the engine bays of any of my Mercs.

Looking forward to doing it.

 

[pmcgsmurf]

Can you recommend a good TFR, minimum 5L raw for dilution please?

 

[mbzclk]

Brilliant work there. I would pay you to work your magic on my engine bay!!

 

[ringway]

Can you recommend a good TFR, minimum 5L raw for dilution please?

Hi Patrick,

A quick search for 5ltr container brought this stuff up at Machine Mart. LINK.
However, it is 600-1 which is strong stuff!

I'm currently using some stuff made by GUNK that is 200-1 and a 50/50 dilution is plenty strong enough for a grimy engine bay or badly caked up wheels (brake dust).

If using on wheels, as always, make sure you get all the product off and start by getting it off the tyres.

Never use on dull, laquerless paint either.

 

[pmcgsmurf]

Hi Patrick,

A quick search for 5ltr container brought this stuff up at Machine Mart. LINK.
However, it is 600-1 which is strong stuff!

Thanks, I'll get some ordered, can keep it my new hut when I get one.

 

[mbzclk]

Hi @ringway

where did you purchase the GUNK stuff? Would you recommend it?

I only need TFR to clean my engine bay, but not a drum quantity.

Can you advise the best product in your opinion?

 

[ringway]

Brilliant work there. I would pay you to work your magic on my engine bay!!

I once cleaned the engine on the W140 owned by Freddie Mercury.

When I opened the bonnet, all the spark plugs sang ♫ We Are The Champions. ♫

 

[ringway]

Hi @ringway

where did you purchase the GUNK stuff? Would you recommend it?

I only need TFR to clean my engine bay, but not a drum quantity.

Can you advise the best product in your opinion?

I bought the Gunk TFR on Ebay. Around £37 for 25 litres.
I've never used the Machine Mart stuff linked in the earlier post, but it's available to collect.
It is however, pretty strong stuff and 600-1. Not sure of its causticity, but it would take your breath away, something that happened to twice, many years ago when mixing large batches with other chemicals.

 

[Londonscottish]

I bought the Gunk TFR on Ebay. Around £37 for 25 litres.
I've never used the Machine Mart stuff linked in the earlier post, but it's available to collect.
It is however, pretty strong stuff and 600-1. Not sure of its causticity, but it would take your breath away, something that happened to twice, many years ago when mixing large batches with other chemicals.

Do you use the exact dilution recommended? Or go a little stronger?

 

[whitenemesis]

Not sure of its causticity, but it would take your breath away,

pH 12.0 according to the COSHH sheet,

https://dccf75d8gej24.cloudfront.net/documents/050430010%20-%203050821%200820%20%20TRAFFIC%20FILM%20REMOVER%20B205.pdf

 

[ringway]

Do you use the exact dilution recommended? Or go a little stronger?

What strength have you bought?

For the engine of wheels caked with brake dust, I would use around 50/50 or slighty weaker on the 200-1 stuff.

 

[ringway]

pH 12.0 according to the COSHH sheet,

https://dccf75d8gej24.cloudfront.net/documents/050430010%20-%203050821%200820%20%20TRAFFIC%20FILM%20REMOVER%20B205.pdf

Thanks, Peter.

It's pretty strong stuff for someone to buy and use for the first time, especially as they probably won't pay much attention to the warning label.

On the occasions it caught my breath, I was standing over a tank that I was mixing the TFR with an ammonia-based product and one that contained optical brighteners. Took me a few breaths to be able to breath properly again.

And, yes, I have had it in my eyes several times.

 

[whitenemesis]

Thanks, Peter.

It's pretty strong stuff for someone to buy and use for the first time, especially as they probably won't pay much attention to the warning label.

On the occasions it caught my breath, I was standing over a tank that I was mixing the TFR with an ammonia-based product and one that contained optical brighteners. Took me a few breaths to be able to breath properly again.

And, yes, I have had it in my eyes several times.

Be careful there, you will be releasing ammonia gas, very irritating to the lungs and eyes (as you've discovered!), getting it in the eyes could ulcerate or blind, wear googles. You only get one pair of eyes... (sorry, slipping into my old role again )
Why do you do this? You will be neutralising the caustic nature of the TFR?

 

[Londonscottish]

What strength have you bought?

For the engine of wheels caked with brake dust, I would use around 50/50 or slighty weaker on the 200-1 stuff.

Mine is 50-1.

 

[ringway]

Mine is 50-1.

Try 80 TFR to 20 water.

 

[ringway]

Why do you do this? You will be neutralising the caustic nature of the TFR?

By mixing?