we use a good semi but depends on whatever was used at last service... not many owners use fully due to cost...
not an oil expert but id say thats probably going to be fully...
id go to your local motor factor and get a decent 5/40... if its synthetic then brand is not so important as most come out of the same well as it were...
id go to your local motor factor and get a decent 5/40... if its synthetic then brand is not so important as most come out of the same well as it were...
gbjeppm
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I have the same M112 engine, and I have just been starting to look into this.
The Castrol site recommends as follows
Castrol's best oil for your vehicle EDGE 0W-30 (m,u,bb) Alternative recommendation MAGNATEC 10W-40 A3/B3 (m,u,bb)
This Oil complies with MB 229.3, 229.5.
I am just reporting though what the Castrol site says, I have no idea what this stuff means!!!
The Castrol site recommends as follows
Castrol's best oil for your vehicle EDGE 0W-30 (m,u,bb) Alternative recommendation MAGNATEC 10W-40 A3/B3 (m,u,bb)
This Oil complies with MB 229.3, 229.5.
I am just reporting though what the Castrol site says, I have no idea what this stuff means!!!
Dieselman
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The additive packages will make a significant difference to the finished oil product even if the same base stocks are used. Stick to a good quality synthetic for the best engine life.
Branding doesn't necessarily make an oil good quality and there is no set quality specification for a semi synth, so one may have a poor mineral oil with a sniff of synth added and call it semi, alternatively some proper semi's are branded Hi'synth due to their high PAO content.
Even manufactures specs are no guarantee as one oil may just make the grade whereas another may pass with flying colours and plenty of reserve.
As Jay says, a 5W-40 will typically be a synth.
Irrespective of how much oil costs it's still nothing in the overall scheme of running a car so buy the best you can afford and change it regularly.
Branding doesn't necessarily make an oil good quality and there is no set quality specification for a semi synth, so one may have a poor mineral oil with a sniff of synth added and call it semi, alternatively some proper semi's are branded Hi'synth due to their high PAO content.
Even manufactures specs are no guarantee as one oil may just make the grade whereas another may pass with flying colours and plenty of reserve.
As Jay says, a 5W-40 will typically be a synth.
Irrespective of how much oil costs it's still nothing in the overall scheme of running a car so buy the best you can afford and change it regularly.
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Dieselman
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I am just reporting though what the Castrol site says, I have no idea what this stuff means!!!
One needs to read the technical data sheets to get any idea of how the oil will perform. Personally I would avoid long-life oils as they are usually lower 'hot' viscosity for improved fuel economy and to allow them to go longer before thickening too much by being saturated with combustion particles.
The downside is the lower the viscosity, the less wear protection is provided.
This is why newer specs aren't necessarily better, they just provide a reference for manufacturers to work to depending on the goal.
grober
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Why don't you ask the OILMAN? http://www.opieoils.co.uk/ For a v6 of that vintage I would definitely go fully synthetic. 5w-40 something like this:- http://www.millersoils.net/1_Millers_frame_AUTO_RETAIL.htm £35 for 5 litres
or this
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-984-fuc...h-performance-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx £25 for 4 litres-----You will need 8 litres approx. FUCHS were OEM for MB lubricants for a long time.
or this
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-984-fuc...h-performance-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx £25 for 4 litres-----You will need 8 litres approx. FUCHS were OEM for MB lubricants for a long time.
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for that V6 synthetic has its benefits... however many believe in using a good semi and changing it more frequently for the reasons DM has pointed out above.
I use semi in all my cars.. a) becuase they are older, b) i like to change my oil every 3-5K...
I use semi in all my cars.. a) becuase they are older, b) i like to change my oil every 3-5K...
Dieselman
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I've just changed mine at 7k miles and use Millers XFD full synth.
Due to buying it in 25L drums I buy it cheaper than £36 for 5 litres and as it took 8+ with the cooler drained it's not too bad.
Being a 'proper' diesel specific oil it works better for longer.
Due to buying it in 25L drums I buy it cheaper than £36 for 5 litres and as it took 8+ with the cooler drained it's not too bad.
Being a 'proper' diesel specific oil it works better for longer.
When was the oil last changed Howard? Considering IIRC you do a lot of shorter journeys it might be worth your while doing an oil and filter change considering the relatively small cost 
I've got the proper MB oil filter removal tool if you need to borrow it?
Will
I've got the proper MB oil filter removal tool if you need to borrow it?
Will
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Howard
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Far as i know it was done at the last service ( an A ) ...
I am due a B service in a few hundred miles , but it looks like it needs topping up as it is on the min mark on the dipstick.
I am due a B service in a few hundred miles , but it looks like it needs topping up as it is on the min mark on the dipstick.
Where are you going for the 'B' service, MB or DIY/Indi?
If it's due in a few hundred miles, I would be tempted to just do the oil change now anyway? Or maybe buy a couple of cans of oil, use a tiny bit for the top up now and then the rest can be used at the service time.
Wherever you get the service done, I would buy the oil yourself - it should be a lot cheaper. I think MB charge £10-15 a litre.
Costco sell Mobil 1 0W-40 fully sythetic for £19.99+VAT (4L)
Will
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Howard
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Not sure yet what to do ...
Pretty skint at the mo , certainly can't afford the £300+ ( inc materials ) that the B service is gonna cost even from an indy.
Even if it takes me two days i might have a go myself , just read someone elses post about changing the plugs ( 5hrs ) ...
Dad is a qualified mechanic ( from years back ) so he will give me a hand and point me in the right direction , he has already stated that he doesn't mind helping me as long as it doesn't involve him doing A) anything other than talking and B ) getting dirty in any way ...
Pretty skint at the mo , certainly can't afford the £300+ ( inc materials ) that the B service is gonna cost even from an indy.
Even if it takes me two days i might have a go myself , just read someone elses post about changing the plugs ( 5hrs ) ...
Dad is a qualified mechanic ( from years back ) so he will give me a hand and point me in the right direction , he has already stated that he doesn't mind helping me as long as it doesn't involve him doing A) anything other than talking and B ) getting dirty in any way ...
thats the way Howard... it makes much more sense to do it yourself..
nothing difficult about servicing a CLK...
nothing difficult about servicing a CLK...
Well the oil you can do straightaway yourself. Just get a new sump plug, washer and a new oil filter from MB (£10/20?), and buy two cans of oil from costco or similar (£45ish)
It'll take you 10 minutes, very easy job. Plugs might be a bit more fiddly but they can wait a couple of months if you're skint IMHO.
Will
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Howard
If you're going to keep the car and s/h isn't an issue then definately go for the DIY approach. The money you save on labour will more than outweight the parts cost by some margin and you get to know your car intimately so see problems looming.
Anything you can't do you can have a local indie do.
Keep an accurate record of work done for when you do want to sell the car.
As a result of this thread I've been looking at oil costs and once again wondering whether a bypass filter is the way to go.
p.s. When you are doing this work under the guidence of your Dad, can he at least take some pictures..
If you're going to keep the car and s/h isn't an issue then definately go for the DIY approach. The money you save on labour will more than outweight the parts cost by some margin and you get to know your car intimately so see problems looming.
Anything you can't do you can have a local indie do.
Keep an accurate record of work done for when you do want to sell the car.
As a result of this thread I've been looking at oil costs and once again wondering whether a bypass filter is the way to go.
p.s. When you are doing this work under the guidence of your Dad, can he at least take some pictures..
why dont you bring all the bits to the GTG and then we can all stand around and guide/instruct/mock you!
Dieselman
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I was actually going to say the sme thing. would be good fun.......for us....
Seriously, can he use a lift at yours.?
If you want me to float by Millers and collect 25 litres of synth I can. It'll be about £120 inc. That's what the dealer charges for one oil changes worth.
They might have 5 litre cans in stock but they would be more pro rata.
yeh sure... Nav is going to be using one of the two posters... MOT ramp should be free..
Cant have hoards of people in the workshop though due to H&S but if anyone wants to watch they can stand just outside the workshop.. about 1m from the ramp!
Cant have hoards of people in the workshop though due to H&S but if anyone wants to watch they can stand just outside the workshop.. about 1m from the ramp!
