Hi all. I got 2014 X218 350cdi with corroded brake lines. 2x rear ones needs replacing, front offside could do with a clean and grease protection and front nearside is good so far. I'm thinking about replacing all of them at once but the question is would you replace them with custom made copper lines or go for oem ones? I know there will be a bit pain with the rear ones, as the fuel tank will need to be dropped. I've been quoted £150 plus VAT per wheel at the local specialist, but I think it will be cheaper to go with copper tubes. Btw. Could you recommend a garage to do this job in North Hampshire area?
CLS X218 Corroded brake lines.
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ALFAitalia
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Don't use copper pipes....not fit for purpose. Use Kunifer or similar.
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What is the issue with copper ?
ALFAitalia
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There were proposals to make it illegal to use as brake hose....but it never happened. It is illegal in some other countries....(New Zealand for example) and on aircraft . Pure copper hardens as it flexes....so if its not solidly mounted and has too much flex it will harden and fracture...not good. Some people think that they have copper pipes ....but they have copper colour to them (but paler) and actually have Cunifer which is an alloy of CU(copper) NI(Nickel)and FE(iron).....much better and wont crack with age.
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Properly rigidly-mounted copper brake lines shouldn't flex, but use Kunifer/Cunifer if you can. Copper is softer and easier to work by hand if you're flaring your own pipes, though.
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No it isn't.
There can be considerable labour involved in changing brake LINES and routing them correctly.
As stated, the the fuel tank needs to be dropped for access and on some vehicles the rear subframe and suspension components also.
I had this work done on a C Class about 7 years ago. The book time was 8 hours.
My Indie replaced the lines for
£599.99. Parts came to around £35 the rest was labour and VAT.
ALFAitalia
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If you have to use it (I wouldn't...there is a reason no car makers use it) remember that copper needs a different flare where its softer.
The steel MB lines are tough to work with and you need a proper (expensive) flare tool. I would stick to copper alloy as it is easy to work with and flare with a decent tool. Although replacing the whole length is the gold standard there is nothing wrong with jointing on each corner where the rot is. Check the front to back runs though as one of mine had rot half way down. If you go down the joint route it may be possible to route across the back without dismantling the whole back of the car. Managed it on my 2010 A207 and I’m a novice.
If you buy the steel lines from MB they are pre cut to size and pre flared with the unions too but will require to be bent using a proper brake pipe bending tool as the cheapo tools designed for copper wont cut it. Which ever way you go steel or copper be sure to apply some clear wax to the line and union area.
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