E class temperature
- Thread starter glyndawn
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exvolvoman
Active Member
Usual cause of low coolant temperature is a failed thermostat...
Petrol Pete
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
I would expect no lower than 80'C . I suspect the thermostat is not opening fully, or at all.
skippyjasper
Active Member
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- Feb 17, 2014
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Might be useful to check the actual temperature of the coolant to confirm the gauge reading.
It looks to me like a failed thermostat. In my experience with a 320 gasser and a 320 CDI it failed in the open position.
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It looks to me like a failed thermostat. In my experience with a 320 gasser and a 320 CDI it failed in the open position.
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OneForTheRoad
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- 2019 Glc coupe 350d was 2017 e350 c207 .. +65 ford kuga 2.0 cdi zetec awd..
Should be at 90 after 15 miles.
David404
Active Member
Thermostats are designed to fail in the open position. If they failed closed there's a risk the engine would overheat. Not reaching normal operating temperature is often due to failed thermostat.
Petrol Pete
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
Had exactly this on the wifes petrol Zafira , you could drive 30 miles before you got much movement on the temp gauge. Replaced the thermostat = Fixed, simples.
84°c
Daveuk
Active Member
Does it eventually get up to temperature? Mines the same can be 30c outside and on a single carriageway I can do easily 20 mins and it’s still not up to temperature. I did think it would be the thermostat but it’s been like it for 2 years now and the dealer told me they can take ages to warm up. My heaters are warm pretty much straight away in the cold weather.
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Justintyme
Active Member
I think that there is a separate auxiliary heater buried deep inside the dash....and it will have the cabin warm in a few minutes. But I'm sure that some one will be along in a minute who has more experience than me on the subject.
B1818
New Member
I've had similar low temp readings when driving gently around 50 mph and the auto box keeps the engine rpm's really low.
Quick search online shows the capacity as 10 litres, that's no small amount of coolant to heat up!
Your car may also be equipped with a radiator shutter, check that it's not stuck open.
Quick search online shows the capacity as 10 litres, that's no small amount of coolant to heat up!
Your car may also be equipped with a radiator shutter, check that it's not stuck open.
andym2
Active Member
I had exactly the same with my E220. It worked fine but never got over 50. New thermostat cured it. It used a fair bit more fuel when running cool so worth fixing it, and easy enough to change.
OneForTheRoad
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- 2019 Glc coupe 350d was 2017 e350 c207 .. +65 ford kuga 2.0 cdi zetec awd..
My c250 usually takes a while to get to 90. Friday night on my way home from work i was in an illegal hurry and got to 90 within 8 miles. So in practice drive hot to get hot.
Daveuk
Active Member
So tonight I’d done 17 mins of driving to get to half way on temp gauge as said the engines are revving low and they don’t have to work hard but as soon as I pulled up onto the dual carriageway and got going it was straight up to 90c.
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Gazwould
MB Enthusiast
Same 10L here with the S204 . My other derv car heats up rapidly with a recent thermostat and 7L coolant capacity .
Even with a new thermostat the Mercs are not the quickest .
Only found out the other day with the VIN decoder it has a radiator shutter and know bugger all about it !
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I've had a few E-class (and also C, CLK, ML) and they have all needed the thermostat replacing. A good clout with a spanner gave a me a few more months on one - that was a duo valve)
Uky
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M271 SFI (CGI) has a known problem with the thermostats. The rubber gasket at the end of an inner
structure bends as it gets stuck and the result is an open valve. This is an electrically adjusted
termostat with ane extra heater that has a connection to the engine management system.
The same principle is used also in M272 CGI but I have not experienced a failed thermostat
with that engine.
It is however quite easy to diagnose a thermostat that is stuck open:
Make a cold start. Drive for some mile until the needle barely leavs the cold position.
Stop the car, open the bonnet and grab the exit water hose close to the radiator.
It should be cold. If it is luke-warm, the thermostat is open.
Replacing the thermostat on an M271 is a bit of a PITA. There is a servo oil pipe
that needs to be removed which is a messy operation. Also the turbo air inlet
hose needs to be taken out. That is not normally a problem, but getting it back in place
after having made the changed can give any one a stroke...
Replacing on an M272 is on the other hand quite easy.
structure bends as it gets stuck and the result is an open valve. This is an electrically adjusted
termostat with ane extra heater that has a connection to the engine management system.
The same principle is used also in M272 CGI but I have not experienced a failed thermostat
with that engine.
It is however quite easy to diagnose a thermostat that is stuck open:
Make a cold start. Drive for some mile until the needle barely leavs the cold position.
Stop the car, open the bonnet and grab the exit water hose close to the radiator.
It should be cold. If it is luke-warm, the thermostat is open.
Replacing the thermostat on an M271 is a bit of a PITA. There is a servo oil pipe
that needs to be removed which is a messy operation. Also the turbo air inlet
hose needs to be taken out. That is not normally a problem, but getting it back in place
after having made the changed can give any one a stroke...
Replacing on an M272 is on the other hand quite easy.
