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E220 cdi 2002

johnboy50

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Joined
May 4, 2006
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2
:mad: hi hope someone can help car starts first time every time when cold but after its been run for 7-10 miles it wont start have to let it cool down then it will start ok
 
Not entirely sure but sounds like something to do with the airflow sensor. Has it ever stalled whilst you were stationary, eg during traffic lights?
 
I have the same problem with my 2002 C220 CDi. I have no problem starting a cold engine but if I leave a warm engine stand for anywhere between 5 mins and a couple of hours, I have to turn it over for a while before she fires up. I'm at odds as to why this might be. Anyone else come across this one?
 
Sounds like either the flywheel sensor is going down under heat or there is an air leak.
 
oh dear, me too...

I just added a '99 220cdi to the collection (which needs thinning out) and I have the exact same symptom, when warm it may start and run for 2 seconds, or just not start at all.
It will then not start for a few minutes, ignition on, or off, and when it does, the engine just limps into life only when helped with the accelerator, but within moments is perfectly happy and behaves as it should until the next time.

My suspicion is air leak, but what makes it start eventually? The fuel pump is electric isn't it, so I don't have to turn the engine over to get fuel to it? Any suggestions where to look?
This is my first non-indirect injection engine and it is a but daunting, made worse by the lack of manual (suggestions on that front gratefully received too!).

---
john
 
on my c220 cdi 1999 i had the same problem and this was the o ring seal on the fuel pipes ie cold they contracted but hot expanded and thus air leak ie air getting in change the o rings please note the new ones are grey and fuel resistant nb the black ones are sub standard and warp with diesel fuel
also the plastic clips are brittle and can snap ie more substandard parts they are not heat resistant
well done mbz for the design of the above
 
johnjohn_98 said:
My suspicion is air leak, but what makes it start eventually? The fuel pump is electric isn't it, so I don't have to turn the engine over to get fuel to it? Any suggestions where to look?
This is my first non-indirect injection engine and it is a but daunting, made worse by the lack of manual (suggestions on that front gratefully received too!).

---
john

This does sound like fuel draining back to the tank due to an air leak, possibly at the injectors or mechanical pump.

Your car has two fuel pumps, an electric lift pump in the tank and a mechanical one on the engine.
 
Air leak?

Thanks for the pointers!

Quickie question: I found an old service record where the mechanic had written "glued up top of injectors", I guess that could be a clue! Now the question, given that the pressure is supposed to be enormous, how could you gkue anything and does this mean new injectors, or is it a pipework issue?
 
i would say glued up means a fuel leak from the copper sealing washers see p m i have sent i will ask my friend at present he is in cyprus due back in 8 days
i can so no logical reason to glue anything but thats me if its broke you fix it not bodge it but some mechanics are not as good as others have a look at your injectors can you see tar like glue if so fuel leak it sometimes looks like damp noise deadener material take your rocker cover off and sniff for fuel and feel for air blow pass on injectors the new injectors have better bolts to stop this problem ie merc know design fault again well done mbz
 
johnjohn_98 said:
Thanks for the pointers!

Quickie question: I found an old service record where the mechanic had written "glued up top of injectors", I guess that could be a clue! Now the question, given that the pressure is supposed to be enormous, how could you gkue anything and does this mean new injectors, or is it a pipework issue?

Its amazing what people do to cars, when I took mine in shortly after buying it to have the screen washers repaired the mechanic found a spark plug shoved into the headlamp washers blocking it off???
 
More investigation yielded...

well since the engine wasn't really warming up, I put in a new thermostat last night, boy did I get a treat...

While I was at it, I thought I'd give the engine a bit of a clean, so in the end I had to wash it off. As you might expect, the identations where the injectors live filled with water. When started injector number one started squirting water in the air, then bubbles - so the seal under the injector is probably very poor. So I've ordered one new injector and the seating tool from United and I'll see how I do.

Obligatory questions:

- the torx bolt that holds the forked bit, replace with a new one?
- while here, new forked bit too?
- How does that little thing hold the injector against all that pressure?
- these O rings that I should replace, are they inside the joints in the copper fuel pipes?
Obviously I'll have to take one copper pipe out to replace the injector and I'd like to
be forearmed


Thanks everyone!
 
Mines a V6 but had the same infuriating problem - crank sensor £150ish from independant solved it straightaway.
 

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