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ECO -Start/Stop button

Took car for 30 minute drive in manual so I kept the revs above 2000 RPM - No green light on button(except briefly on start up) no ECO on dash of any colour(briefly except on start up)
 
Took car for 30 minute drive in manual so I kept the revs above 2000 RPM - No green light on button(except briefly on start up) no ECO on dash of any colour(briefly except on start up)

Then most likely one or both batteries are no longer good enough for Start/Stop, but still OK for starting the engine. Next move? Your call....
 
Then most likely one or both batteries are no longer good enough for Start/Stop, but still OK for starting the engine. Next move? Your call....
I can do a drop test on the batteries to check them out - keep you posted
 
Last night I put ICarsoft on and again no errors, cleared errors anyway.
Run to work this morning…… green on button, yellow on dash then after about 15minutes it went green👍🏻 All looking good.
I dare say if it was scanned with Star or Xentry it would have picked up the issue.
 
I'd charge the main battery tbh. It's not all about the motorbike battery .
 
Mine had the same problem, fitted a new main starter battery and cured it instantly.
Try charging the battery overnight to see if it fixes it temporarily, if after a couple of days the fault returns then you know it's the battery failing.
 
The irony here is that stop/start 'technology' was invented (in the main) to cut down emissions of cars idling through city centres, but in many cases (at least on this forum) the car needs a long drive to get the batteries up to the level where the system works all of the time. Or the batteries need to be replaced within a few years or regularly plugged in to charge.

If this is not done the stop/start disables itself for the city centre driver.......great.
 
Then most likely one or both batteries are no longer good enough for Start/Stop, but still OK for starting the engine. Next move? Your call....

I'd charge the main battery tbh. It's not all about the motorbike battery .
The battery in the boot is far from a motorbike battery - this is the one I charged

I’m not concerned at all about the Stop/Start function, in fact I find it quite annoying, it’s more about knowing if it’s injecting more fuel to clean DPF when it goes off.
 
The battery in the boot is far from a motorbike battery - this is the one I charged

I’m not concerned at all about the Stop/Start function, in fact I find it quite annoying, it’s more about knowing if it’s injecting more fuel to clean DPF when it goes off.
Not necessarily. My Stop/Start displays similar symptoms to yours - my car is a petrol.
As others have stated, it's likely to be battery condition related. In my case I notice the Stop/Start playing up when I haven't used the car for a while. I know for a fact the (original) battery is past its best.
 
If you have the Mercedes Me app the battery status is given on the 'Service' page. On our S205 it showed 'partially charged' at all times ... the car started and ran perfectly, but stop/start didn't work. New battery fitted under warranty - all working fine, and battery status shows 'fully charged'.
 
Drop test indicates the main battery is healthy.
The small one under the bonnet had some corrosion on one of the terminals, which I’ve cleaned up and reconnected.
 
If you have the Mercedes Me app the battery status is given on the 'Service' page. On our S205 it showed 'partially charged' at all times ... the car started and ran perfectly, but stop/start didn't work. New battery fitted under warranty - all working fine, and battery status shows 'fully charged'.
Exactly the same as mine; cars starts fine after being left for a week, but no S/S and I know it's not holding charge as it should. Given it's the original from 2013 I'm not surprised.
That said, the lack of S/S doesn't bother me; I tend to turn it off as part of the pre-flight checks anyway.
 
As mentioned before, have you charged the main battery ?
Not sure what you mean by drop test but you do need a bit more than a volt meter to fully test a battery's capacity under load.
 
As mentioned before, have you charged the main battery ?
Not sure what you mean by drop test but you do need a bit more than a volt meter to fully test a battery's capacity under load.
The main battery(in boot) was fully charged and a drop test puts the battery under full load indicating the condition. Multimeter test showed 13.4 volts 14.7 volts charge voltage with engine running.
 
The main battery(in boot) was fully charged and a drop test puts the battery under full load indicating the condition. Multimeter test showed 13.4 volts 14.7 volts charge voltage with engine running.
I'm a bit confused;
On a 204, isn't the main battery the one under the bonnet?
 
The main battery(in boot) was fully charged and a drop test puts the battery under full load indicating the condition. Multimeter test showed 13.4 volts 14.7 volts charge voltage with engine running.
When you say full load was that the cranking load on starting the engine ?
 
Found this in that products questions and answers.

"However, the load this tester places on the battery is relatively light, and there are better tests using a higher load or a smaller load for a much longer period, look on the web for details.
i have had problems with specialised AGM batteries where it seemed OK with the tester but still was not good enough to supply the much larger load to start a diesel a few weeks later".
 
Is the battery under the bonnet ?
Have you left it on an overnight charge ?
 

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