• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

Engine oil.

jeffreyli86

Active Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
135
Location
Hong Kong
Car
94' W124 E220, 96' VW Golf VR6
Suddenly I just want to change the engine oil of my W124 E220 myself. However, there are two problems. Firstly, I don't know how to do it. Well I do, kind of. But some people say you got to replace that crush spacer on the bolt that screws onto the oil pan everytime you unscrew it, some says there's no need. So, is there actually a need to do so?

The other problem is, I always take my car to service at a local garage but now the garage is closed. I don't know whether they used to use fully synthetic, semi synthetic or mineral oils in my engine. I am asking this because I've read somewhere that, an old engine (would mine be considered as an old one? Does mileage matter (50k miles) or does the age?) switching from mineral to synthetic may cause problems...

Any mechanic have any opinions on this?

Also, what kind of oil should I use (as in the visocity and all those readings), and how much would a E220 need?

Thakns a lot,
Jeff
 
All of the garages have used semi synthetic 10w/40 on my W124 like castrol magnatec or similar. I guess the shorter service intervals negate the need for fully synthetic. 5 litres is fine for an oil change alone, from recollection. I think its just under 6L if you change the filter too. Just make sure the oil is rated SG standard or higher.

I suggest you change the copper sealing washer every time, only costs a couple of pence and you can buy them at halfords or anywhere.

The drain plug is on the passenger side of the car towards the front, just hidden by the undershield. You can see it and reach it if you get your head just below the front number plate and you can get to it easy without removing anything or even jacking up the car. 12mm or 13mm bolt IIRC.
 
go for some Halfords fully synthetic oil as they have reduced their price to £15
for 5 litres. (limited period only) but normally as spike says castrol magatec will be fine. why not go fully synthetic when it is the same price as magatec?

fully synthetic oil is better for the winter, as it circulates quicker when cold and lasts longer for extended oil changes. I have not experienced any problems with switching between semi & fully, as when i get my car serviced my mechanic uses catrol magnatec, but when i change the oil myself i use halford fully synthetic.

best to change the copper washer at the same time as if you buy a geninue mercedes oil filter a new copper washer is included in the pack.
 
Thanks a lot for the info.

Just another quick one. I thought engine oil come in cartons that are 4L ? How could I get 5L? Buy two of them or what?
 
Comes in 4L and 5L cartons depending on what you buy. Worth buying a little extra anyway so you can top up later with the correct oil as needs be.

If you do go fully synthetic, don't get the 0w or 5w-50 oil as it is too light for your engine. Stick to 10 weight if you can.
 
Copy that !!
I think I will be going for some Esso Havoline semi synthetic or LiquiMoly semi synthetic.
Any opinions on these ?

Thanks a lot Spike you've been really helpful all the time
 
Here's the full recommendations:

1992-93 P Mercedes Benz 220E, -TE, -CE (M111) (124 Series)

Engine EO MBZ 229.1 10W-40 6litres
Manual gearbox ATF MBZ 236.2/6 1.5litres
Auto Gearbox ATF MBZ 236.6/7 5.5litres
Differential(s) GO MBZ 235.0 90 1.1litres
Coolant AF MBZ 325.0 8.5litres
Power Steering ATF MBZ 236.3
Level Control, Hydropneumatic Suspension (where fitted) HY MBZ 343
Brake and Clutch Fluid BF MBZ 331.0
Front Wheel Bearings, Grease GR MBZ 265.1
General Purpose Grease GR MBZ 267

Hope this helps,

Cheers
Simon
 
Thanks a lot mate...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom