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On youtube a chaps done his light aircraft with a product to stop leaks /
Engine Sealer (external)
- Thread starter KennyN
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- Jun 24, 2008
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- 2022 Hyundai IONIQ 5 RWD / 2016 Suzuki Vitara AWD
Try this:
LOCTITE SI 5699 is a water/glycol resistant gasketing product, ideal for use on flexible flanges, machined or cast surfaces, metal or plastic.
LOCTITE® SI 5699 is a flexible silicone sealant and cures on exposure to moisture in the air to form a tough rubber gasket. The product is designed primarily for flange sealing with excellent oil resistance or rigid flange sealing for example on transmissions and cast metal housings. It is tack-free after just 10 min. The product is water-glycol resistant and can be used on machined or cast surfaces, metal or plastic.
I have a Small Bead of it Around an Inch Long at the Base of the Cylinder on my Triumph T150V, that has been Oil Tight for about 25 Years!
Que Jokes about Triumph Oil Leaks!
How long ago have applied the LOCTITE SI 5699 compound? Presumably not 25 years ago.... And how much use does the bike get?
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2008
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- 50,454
- Location
- London
- Car
- 2022 Hyundai IONIQ 5 RWD / 2016 Suzuki Vitara AWD
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2013
- Messages
- 6,517
- Location
- Kidderminster Worcestershire UK
- Car
- Mercedes W124 260E M103
Makjay yes its the one ,, i bet that plane you went over in had spearmint on it haha .
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As stated, I applied the Loctite at least 25 Years Ago, the Bike was used Recreationaly most Weekends until I Sorned Her in 2016!
OP
OP
Just an update on the leaks.
There were two leaks coming from the rear of the engine both now fixed and been dry for the last couple of weeks.
Main leak was from the sump washer , the servicing dealer obviously had not replaced it when they changed the oil. The air flow under the car was driving it up the rear of the sump making me think it was coming down from higher up the motor ,fixed for £2.
Second, smaller leak was seeping from the joint between the sump and block , luckily it was at a place that was easily accessible meaning i could get in and clean it properly and apply some Dirko HT which seems to be holding fine.
Note to self , dont go believing everything that a Google search returns.
K
There were two leaks coming from the rear of the engine both now fixed and been dry for the last couple of weeks.
Main leak was from the sump washer , the servicing dealer obviously had not replaced it when they changed the oil. The air flow under the car was driving it up the rear of the sump making me think it was coming down from higher up the motor ,fixed for £2.
Second, smaller leak was seeping from the joint between the sump and block , luckily it was at a place that was easily accessible meaning i could get in and clean it properly and apply some Dirko HT which seems to be holding fine.
Note to self , dont go believing everything that a Google search returns.
K
There used to be a product called ‘Petro Patch’ for fixing leaking fuel tanks - it was basically an epoxy resin .
For that matter the resin which comes in car body fibreglass kits could possibly be applied . Even with a small sheet of fibreglass webbing to support the repair ?
So , would it be a major job to drop the sump and change the gasket ?
OP
OP
No gasket , just sealer which is possibly part of the initial problem.
Yep , £5k + at an indy as the whole lot lot has to be dropped - engine / trans / subframe. There is only around 25mm of space between the sump and subframe. If it was a Tsunami of a leak i dare say it could be dropped that 25mm and some sort of repair could be done in-situ by hanging the sump on longer bolts as there is good access around the sump to get to the bolts but there is no way it could be totally removed with the motor in place.
K
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