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Front ARBs for W210/ S210

W210Virgin

Active Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2014
Messages
255
Location
Norn Iron
Car
2002 S210 Avantgarde 320CDi in silver. Black leather interior
:thumb:I successfully replaced my front ARBs on Friday and, at £9.20 each from MB, weren't exactly a fortune.
A few points to note as this fix is technically simple and not worth a full picture post.

The ARB Torx bolts might be tight but will likely, given that 210s are getting on a bit, be a bit rusty. Make sure your socket is a snug fit. One of mine was rounded a bit (possibly by a previous fixer) and luckily a bit of perserverance using a socket one size smaller did the trick. The thing is that as the ARBs are not split type the whole bar needs to be removed and one bolt is enough to scupper the deal.

The drop links need to come off as well. Mark the bar and matching link at one end so that when you refit you know which link goes where and which way round the bar goes. Don't do what I did and take it all apart and then try and figure it out! :wallbash:

The ARBs will twist off OK as the worn ones will be reasonably loose. The new ones will be a tight fit and it is important to get the bar nice and clean so they twist on OK without damaging the inside of them. They are substantial and I don't expect to do them again in the lifetime of my 12 year old S210.

The links are tricky little buggers to get off. I didn't expect them to be easy but I did expect them to be easier than they were. The end of the bar has a locating radial groove it it and the bush in the top of the link has a corresponding moulding in it to fit the groove and this stops the bush sliding off. Thing is, the rubber is so bloody stiff, it it is extremely hard to compress it enough to slide it off. I resorted to a little puller. :wallbash: This added about an hour to the time I spent total on the fix. Putting the link back on again is equally tricky, and unless you're seriously powerful, you will not push it on again by hand. I eventually pushed in on to the bar by hand as far as I could (this is where marking it helps to make sue it is the right way round and on the right end, as per first point), turned the bar upside down, but standing vertically, and hit it one good sharp thump on the garage floor and it was enough to pop it on. I lubed it a bit first too.

Re-installing is the reversal or removal, and I supported the bar across its length with a few small axle stands till I had a few bolts in to hold it in place. It's heavy when you're on your own lying on a garage floor! :thumb:

Job done and end of annoying thumping on the car floor. :bannana::D

Next month the lower arms bushings are for the works and that should be the front end in good shape as it's quite soggy and lacking steering feel. Links and ball joints all seem to be in good order. Arm repair kits are available from MB fro about £45 each side so well worth doing subject to getting access to a press.
 
Great write up!

I found that by gripping the roll bar in a vice, you can use a large pair of waterpump pliers to gently squeeze the well lubed links over the end of the roll bar. On my S210 I had managed to use your method of putting the link onto the floor and pushing the bar down through the link. Didn't work with my W210 though so resorted to the vice method instead!

I too need to tackle the inner lower arm bushes as much cheaper than replacing the whole assembly. Definitely need to use a press or an installation tool though!
 

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