I changed my oil using the Lidl oil extractor

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Petrol engines are now pretty much all direct injection and some makes (not particularly MB) also suffer from fuel dilution of the oil. For diesel or petrol engines, where there is even the possibility of fuel contaminating the oil, for me the no brainer decision is to use slightly thicker oil to start with. Given the choice between for example 5W30 and 5W40 which is typically the case for MB engines why wouldn't you choose the 5W40 and change it frequently too of course.
 
Right so educate me, if you have left the car 2 or 3 days without use and then check the dipstick is that not the true reading. I read mine when i pull it out between min and max wipe put back in when taking out again its just above full, wipe and check again just above full again, is this picking up oil in the dipstick pipe where i am taking it in and out? surly the first time i take it out it would be right as its only that thats been sitting in the oil leaving some up the tube when i take it out? Overthinking and checking everything again:oops:
 
I am dumb about all this. what happens if the dpf dumps fuel in your oil how can that get out? does the car not tell you that you need to boot it on a ride? i'm lost with this new technology. so if your dipstick is showing level high do you suck the oil out or what? No wonder my hairs falling out.
Why?
The only reason I can think of so that the driver can see the smoke being emitted during re-gen but I'm pretty sure that isn't the reason!
Ha Ha...no, thats not it. switching on the rear screen heater a ( and also door mirrors ) puts extra demand on the alternator , which in turn puts more load on the engine, raising the temperature , which in turn raises the exhaust gases temperature which facilitates the regen.
 
Right so educate me, if you have left the car 2 or 3 days without use and then check the dipstick is that not the true reading. I read mine when i pull it out between min and max wipe put back in when taking out again its just above full, wipe and check again just above full again, is this picking up oil in the dipstick pipe where i am taking it in and out? surly the first time i take it out it would be right as its only that thats been sitting in the oil leaving some up the tube when i take it out? Overthinking and checking everything again:oops:
First, I always check mine in the morning...stone cold., Sometimes the dip can be a bit smudged, but still possible to get a definite reading, which I double check. Try it again on a daily basis, and see how you get on. Its true that after 3 days standing, every particle of oil that is normally up around the engine, should have returned to the sump. Next time, before removing the dipstick, try twisting it around and see if that makes any diference
 
Ha Ha...no, thats not it. switching on the rear screen heater a ( and also door mirrors ) puts extra demand on the alternator , which in turn puts more load on the engine, raising the temperature , which in turn raises the exhaust gases temperature which facilitates the regen.
Crossed my mind later it could be to add load. What a damned finicky procedure it is!
 
Crossed my mind later it could be to add load. What a damned finicky procedure it is!
Yes it is, especially since a regen warning icon could have been added during design and production stages. Now it can be jury rigged,but who wants to mess around with the canbus system?
 
Yes it is, especially since a regen warning icon could have been added during design and production stages. Now it can be jury rigged,but who wants to mess around with the canbus system?
Oh jeez - not canbus. I haven't gotten over the anxiety attacks from DPF re-gens yet!
 
Oh jeez - not canbus. I haven't gotten over the anxiety attacks from DPF re-gens yet!
I'm sure that you will be able to control it, once you start regularly weekly checks. Canbus is the reason that I'm not to anxious to install the regen light just yet either. But I do have the iCarsoft CR Pro, and can monitor the regens with it. But much as I love the car next time I will seriously consider petrol.
 
Right so educate me, if you have left the car 2 or 3 days without use and then check the dipstick is that not the true reading

It's the truest reading you can get and as you suggest avoids any errors from residual oil in the dipstick tube. The level will be a touch lower stone cold but MB doesn't differentiate dipstick readings between cold and hot, they only provide guidance on how long to wait after a engine shutdown which is 5 mins fully hot or 30 mins otherwise to allow for oil to drain back to the sump.

Even given MB's lack of differentiation between cold and hot I would never fill to the max mark when cold as it will exceed the mark when hot.
 
Hi,

In the dark days of owning a power boat it was not possible to remove the engine oil via the drain plug.

All I did was use a vacuum system and change the oil early.

Use same practice in my car.

The oil is so thin and clean I have trouble using the dipstick.
 
It's the truest reading you can get and as you suggest avoids any errors from residual oil in the dipstick tube. The level will be a touch lower stone cold but MB doesn't differentiate dipstick readings between cold and hot, they only provide guidance on how long to wait after a engine shutdown which is 5 mins fully hot or 30 mins otherwise to allow for oil to drain back to the sump.

Even given MB's lack of differentiation between cold and hot I would never fill to the max mark when cold as it will exceed the mark when hot.
My reasoning on the subject is that from day one in the production plant is that 6.5 ltrs is put into the brand new engine, which is ambient temperature at that point. So when I do an oil and filter change using any method, siphon or drain stud,I put only 6 ltrs back in. Then I drive it a bit and park it overnight, and do a final level check next morning. And depending on what the dipstick tells me, either add or remove some oil. My preferred level is a few mm below the max line,but never above it. Weekly checks thereafter but always in the morning . But i always drain from a hot / warm engine.
 
All great tips, i'm checking how level the garage floor is next, lets get these things right :cool:
 
Good Christ, what started out as a post about a 13 quid pump from Lidl has turned into some kind of cult of oil levels. FFS everyone on here drives a normal mass produced car, a couple of 100ml here and there in the sump is not going to blow your engine up , oil level going up is of concern, oil level going down is called life.

On occasion my almost 150K mile C55 will say 'add one litre' on a cold morning ...I ignore it and top it up later at work or when I get home 70 miles later . My reasoning is MB erred on the side of caution when planning to sell these cars to the masses and factored in a bit of leeway.
 
Good Christ, what started out as a post about a 13 quid pump from Lidl has turned into some kind of cult of oil levels. FFS everyone on here drives a normal mass produced car, a couple of 100ml here and there in the sump is not going to blow your engine up , oil level going up is of concern, oil level going down is called life.

On occasion my almost 150K mile C55 will say 'add one litre' on a cold morning ...I ignore it and top it up later at work or when I get home 70 miles later . My reasoning is MB erred on the side of caution when planning to sell these cars to the masses and factored in a bit of leeway.
If you are a mechanic, OK. You're aware of oil issues. Now consider some one who is not a mechanic, but who has heard some horror stories ( and believe me, there are plenty of these . You know this too,I'm sure ) And is trying to do the best he can to safeguard his pride and joy. So yes, nothing strange about some one trying to get it absolutely right...if I was tackling a job on my car ( and I'm a retired mechanic ) that I had not done before, I'd be asking questions too...lots of them, in fact. As far as I'm concerned, this is what this forum is all about ..people helping others, even if the questions appear trivial to some.
 
There;s only 4 things you need, a lovely wife (better put that in) well all right add your health 5 things, Wife, health, car, tin of polish, something to worry about, sorted. Its lockdown so what else is going on :thumb: soon be free, stay safe
 
There;s only 4 things you need, a lovely wife (better put that in) well all right add your health 5 things, Wife, health, car, tin of polish, something to worry about, sorted. Its lockdown so what else is going on :thumb: soon be free, stay safe
Nothing like having your priorities right!!!!
 
Even given MB's lack of differentiation between cold and hot I would never fill to the max mark when cold as it will exceed the mark when hot.
But it won't matter because a significant amount of oil will be in the engine galleries - not the sump.
 
But it won't matter because a significant amount of oil will be in the engine galleries - not the sump.
Thats another reason never to refill 6.5 ltres straight away after a change. 6 ltrs is enough then drive it, allow it to sit overnight, check next morning and adjust as needed. Personally, I've always found that way to be the best.
 

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