L6/3 Left rear axle rpm sensor has a mechanical fault

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Thanks. And is it correct that the rear wheels don't have a magnetic ring built into the bearing?
Rear wheel on my 2010 E350 has a pushed on ring with a magnetic strip around the outside, it had separated from the metal inner.

I finally got round to fitting the Mercedes’ purchased sensor this evening and lo and behold, it berluddy works!,
Abs esp all working as is cruise, attention assist, hill hold etc.
Just in time as I’ve got to nip back down to London tomorrow evening, and the gritters are out.
 
Rear wheel on my 2010 E350 has a pushed on ring with a magnetic strip around the outside, it had separated from the metal inner.

I finally got round to fitting the Mercedes’ purchased sensor this evening and lo and behold, it berluddy works!,
Abs esp all working as is cruise, attention assist, hill hold etc.
Just in time as I’ve got to nip back down to London tomorrow evening, and the gritters are out.
Nice one Popell. It must have been a great relief when all those yellow lights didn't reappear ! Had another go at mine. Jumped up and down on the wrecking bar and 14 stone still wouldn't budge the axle nut :( Local indie said he would charge £150 labour per side. He said that often when one side goes it's worth doing both sides. Your now working stop/start will come in useful for London :)
 
It must be exasperating to have a nut that won’t budge!
It’s also a bit of a niggle that I had to buy genuine to get it working, unlucky with the claimed compatible eBay one I guess and the GSF appears not to be for 2010-13 regardless what they say(info from another site)
There is a logic on doing both sides but rather than make work and the fact it could be fine for years, if the lights come on, I’ll know where to start.

What I would say is that I think the reluctor ring is likely to be the culprit in the first place. I’ll probably get one and keep it in the garage for the fateful day.

As it gets colder and darker on an evening, that £150 sounds more and more reasonable!
I think I would have put a little heat into the nut(think Brûlée torch rather than blowtorch) and if that failed, try some pipe freeze, just to try to shock the nut apart from the stub but I really didn’t have a problem, have to got the hammered ‘tangs’ fully clear?

My car does stop start unfortunately…
 
It must be exasperating to have a nut that won’t budge!
It’s also a bit of a niggle that I had to buy genuine to get it working, unlucky with the claimed compatible eBay one I guess and the GSF appears not to be for 2010-13 regardless what they say(info from another site)
There is a logic on doing both sides but rather than make work and the fact it could be fine for years, if the lights come on, I’ll know where to start.

What I would say is that I think the reluctor ring is likely to be the culprit in the first place. I’ll probably get one and keep it in the garage for the fateful day.

As it gets colder and darker on an evening, that £150 sounds more and more reasonable!
I think I would have put a little heat into the nut(think Brûlée torch rather than blowtorch) and if that failed, try some pipe freeze, just to try to shock the nut apart from the stub but I really didn’t have a problem, have to got the hammered ‘tangs’ fully clear?

My car does stop start unfortunately…
Also, if the nut is that stuck then I dread to think how easily axle will come out of the hub !! I did a lot of work on my cars in the 80's but the prospect now of sitting out in near zero temperatures is making the £150 seem a better option. As you say, the other side could last for many more years and I would not change a working side for the sake of it.
 
Also, if the nut is that stuck then I dread to think how easily axle will come out of the hub !! I did a lot of work on my cars in the 80's but the prospect now of sitting out in near zero temperatures is making the £150 seem a better option. As you say, the other side could last for many more years and I would not change a working side for the sake of it.
Just food for thought - I may have been unlucky, but both front sensors on my S204 failed at about 50,000 miles pretty much within 500 miles of each other. NS first, then OS.
 
Just food for thought - I may have been unlucky, but both front sensors on my S204 failed at about 50,000 miles pretty much within 500 miles of each other. NS first, then OS.
Looks like the indie knew what he was talking about.
 
Had a defective rear ABS sensor fitted to my ML by a Mercedes Indi, all ok , got 50 miles down the motorway when warning light reappeared. Turned round and drove back , when checked it was a front sensor ! They said it a not uncommon occurrence
 
Had a defective rear ABS sensor fitted to my ML by a Mercedes Indi, all ok , got 50 miles down the motorway when warning light reappeared. Turned round and drove back , when checked it was a front sensor ! They said it a not uncommon occurrence
Didn't the scanner point to the correct broken sensor in the first place?
 
Didn't the scanner point to the correct broken sensor in the first place?
Yes it was perfectly fine after the first one had been replaced , was checked on Star . The second one went afterwards, the car had been standing prior to the first one going , they definitely don’t like being parked up too regularly. Incidentally my second ML also had an ABS wheel sensor failure after being parked up for 3 weeks
 
Yes it was perfectly fine after the first one had been replaced , was checked on Star . The second one went afterwards, the car had been standing prior to the first one going , they definitely don’t like being parked up too regularly. Incidentally my second ML also had an ABS wheel sensor failure after being parked up for 3 weeks
Blimey ! Looks like when one goes then it's new sensors all around !
 
Blimey ! Looks like when one goes then it's new sensors all around !
I doubt it, just unlucky, a lot of cars out there only have had a single sensor or reluctor ring fail, mine included.
 
In case anybody reads this in future and would like to know the outcome, the ABS ring on the driveshaft had fallen apart, was replaced, and now all works as should. My local garage replaced it for 3 hrs labour, including drilling out the broken bolt that secures the ABS sensor. On top of the 3 hours labour (£135+VAT) there was £11 for a new ABS ring (Ebay) and a £14 ABS sensor (Autodoc).
 
Well done dogday, mines still behaving properly so fingers crossed..

On a separate issue, I lost a few,psi on a rear wheel which seems to be down to the fact that the wheel is no longer round, flipping potholes!

So I’ll be on the lookout for a set of alloys. Was wondering if they need to be XL or is any commercially available set of alloys claiming to fit adequate?

I can’t reply to any of the classified on here as my post count Is too little!
 
Well done dogday, mines still behaving properly so fingers crossed..

On a separate issue, I lost a few,psi on a rear wheel which seems to be down to the fact that the wheel is no longer round, flipping potholes!

So I’ll be on the lookout for a set of alloys. Was wondering if they need to be XL or is any commercially available set of alloys claiming to fit adequate?

I can’t reply to any of the classified on here as my post count Is too little!
I think the wheel question needs to be put in the correct "wheel" section in the forum. The specified load rating for my car is "W" so would think changing to "XL" would give more sturdiness to the tyre and wheel but again, think you need to post in the right section of the forum.

I had a constant slow leak from a tyre on an alloy wheel on a previous car after hitting a pot hole. The wheel can get slightly distorted or you can get a hairline crack in the alloy. I told the tyre fitter about the leak and he refitted the tyre with a load more of the "paste" that they use and the tyre stopped leaking.
 
I think the wheel question needs to be put in the correct "wheel" section in the forum. The specified load rating for my car is "W" so would think changing to "XL" would give more sturdiness to the tyre and wheel but again, think you need to post in the right section of the forum.

I had a constant slow leak from a tyre on an alloy wheel on a previous car after hitting a pot hole. The wheel can get slightly distorted or you can get a hairline crack in the alloy. I told the tyre fitter about the leak and he refitted the tyre with a load more of the "paste" that they use and the tyre stopped leaking.
You’re mixing up tyres, wheels, speed rating and load rating! As you say, best asked in the wheel section.
 
You’re mixing up tyres, wheels, speed rating and load rating! As you say, best asked in the wheel section.
See what you mean. W is a speed rating, not a load rating :oops: Over to the experts ........................
 

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