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Loss of power

sarah.grandon

Active Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2016
Messages
142
Car
Mercedes clk
Wow.... what a morning!! Loss of power, no warning lights ... nothing... was a little better in sport mode!! Currently in garage, need a new fuel filter!! No faults when plugged in !! Fingers and toes crossed people that’s all it is!! [emoji29]x
 
If the fuel filter has gone, you'll definitely need a new discombobulator too.
 
Always a good idea to give some information on your car- its age, exact model/engine, transmission manual/auto box etc That way you are much more likely to get an answer! If its not just the fuel filter it might be the fuel pump thats mounted inside the fuel tank under the rear seats pump is no 200
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So sorry 2009 CLK 320 CDI, had the new filter changed all good for 20 minutes then lost power again. Seems to start off ok then loses it at 30 mph then no oomph to get anywhere!! Clueless and very fed up!! [emoji36] xx
 
So from this would it be correct that the filter was not at fault?

Has it been plugged into Star or a generic fault finder?
 
Sarah
Take heart, man made it & man can fix it!
And by that women can as well!
I have employed several woman as trained mechanics, for the most part as good as the guys with a scanner , and my best service writer EVER in 25 years is a young single mother who is trained vehicle Tech.
Can run tech rings around the wannabe mechanic type customers who are a bit clueless at to "wots going on!"
Let's hope they can fix it for you --fast.
Cheers Dennis
aka Tuercas viejas.
Shop owner that believes in equal opportunity and equal pay compensation for the same work/skill level.
 
So from this would it be correct that the filter was not at fault?

Has it been plugged into Star or a generic fault finder?

Hi love, yeh plugged in no faults?? Could it be a blocked fuel line ?? Or injection?? X
 
I have employed several woman as trained mechanics, for the most part as good as the guys with a scanner , and my best service writer EVER in 25 years is a young single mother who is trained vehicle Tech.

Now hold on this is not the web site you seem to think this is.
 
If it’s a timely thing, like 20 minutes after start up, it can’t be anything like that.

Maybe a faulty MAF sensor, and while cold and in closed loop mode the car runs fine, but once up to temperature, it gets bad data from the MAF and misfuels.

All guesses of course. What did your mechanic say?
 
If it’s a timely thing, like 20 minutes after start up, it can’t be anything like that.

Maybe a faulty MAF sensor, and while cold and in closed loop mode the car runs fine, but once up to temperature, it gets bad data from the MAF and misfuels.

All guesses of course. What did your mechanic say?

Hi love, right I’ve just been out in it from cold and exactly the same ok through to 30 then revs will not go over 1... got to go back tomorrow he thinks may have something to do with injections?? What a day only finally home now !! Today of all days I had to take my Mum to hospital!!! Main thing is she is ok!! I’m going to sleep tonight!! X
 
My money is on the MAF, unlikely to show up on a code reader and the symptoms fit
 
A live data session might be the way to go with this one. If it's not throwing any codes it may show a blip in the live data stream.
 
Sarah
Hi and greetings
Now you are beginning to sound like a customer!

Now if you were talking to Ms Brianna my service writer, she would no doubt say "We don't know what it will cost until the car has had a full diagnosis on it reading live data and the fault(s) located". unquote
What I will state that cars have pattern failures for the most part and Grober has hinted in a post that you might be going into a limp mode.
If the shop you have taken it to is familiar with the car/model you have, they should be able to locate the issue fairly quickly and give you an estimate to fix.
All the best
Dennis
aka Tuercas viejas
 
lol Greetings Sarah and good day to you....

I've paid between 90 quid and a bit more before. The Mass AirfFow sensor is what tells the ECU how much fuel to squirt. It tells it how much air has gone in. If it's wrong, it'll make the engine run badly.

When engines are cold, they tend to run in "closed loop" mode which is a pre-programmed mode that doesn't pay attention to this data. When warm, they go into open loop and take the data from sensors, which is better, unless you've a faulty sensor.

Honestly though, it could be that, it could be cleaned, I'd hate you to spend money because of what some dudes on the internet said, it's just a guessing game. Find a mechanic you trust and take it from there.
 

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