Merc 2001 E320 CDI, Please read see if you can get your head around this Issue?

[grober]

Here's a video on a typical 722.6 transmission controller/computer. As you can see there's scope for lots of weird problems.

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I appreciate your transmission may check out OK when your friend tested it. But that's the pattern you describe an intermittant fault when the car heats up that could be engine or transmission related or electronic. You need to get your friend to test the transmission when the fault is present-what they call live data. I could be barking up the wrong tree here of course its just one of several possibilities.

 

[Colterry]

Here's a video on a typical 722.6 transmission controller/computer. As you can see there's scope for lots of weird problems.

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

I appreciate your transmission may check out OK when your friend tested it. But that's the pattern you describe an intermittant fault when the car heats up that could be engine or transmission related or electronic. You need to get your friend to test the transmission when the fault is present-what they call live data. I could be barking up the wrong tree here of course its just one of several possibilities.

OK, this is what we did today, spent most of the day on this.

Have found another Transmission out of a 320 CDI, exactly the same, but was hit from behind, so asked if I can borrow and replace some parts.

I also placed it onto a code reader, Not Star as no access to one till next week.

Came up with Air Flow MAF issues, which is for these 320 CDI's like a default code, No Other codes was logged as we did wipe it all clean last week.

I took the whole fuel rail out of the other vehicle, as I still suspect some issues, but no difference.

Then took the fuel filter housing off the other, checked the rubber "O" ring and even placed some grease around it for better seal. No Difference.

Took the fuel line from my behind the seat pump and noticed around the clip, a slight pinching at the end outlet from the in tank pump, cut it off as not a lot of hose to work with, and used my own General Utility Clamp and took it for a run.

(Well, was sluggish for a little nearly stalled as I entered the main road, but then it must of cleared it's air issues and Bingo, I have double the power.) Well not double but you can feel the extra horses.

Plus the kickdown worked from a stop start OK, plus when you drop down to 20mph and plant the foot you had a kickdown and up to 6k in RPM and smooth changing.

But when it got HOT, and driving like a Young Gun, the EPC warning came back on. Making it only go to 3k in RPM. Stop turn off and all resets, till you plant the foot again, but it's got lot of power.

End result and one issues solved is NO More Sucking Air.

So, I had a gearbox on offer was going to drop mine and place the other in, but after one victory, decided against it. Tomorrow I will look at my MAF, do a test on it, but the other car had their MAF missing, someone got to it before me.

(For those reading this, can I tell you, if you fully flatten or Remove your battery, these 320 CDI will come up with 3 malfunctions, being ABS and LIM and others, just take it for a short run, make sure you pull over, turn it off and REMOVE the key fob, and start up again all those malfunctions will go away) Do not think it's the end of the world if all the lights on the Dash come up as you have either removed or have a close to flat battery.

 

[bob6600]

The BAS ABS one can be cleared by turning the steering from lock to lock,

 

[Colterry]

Up Date..... (Please No Smart Remarks what Happened)

After all the hours spent, decided to leave the car alone, but thought, OK, must try one other thing.

I tested the voltage from the MAF lead, and all was reading according to comments on this very forum.

Then went away form the MAF = Air Flow, to replace all the Vacuum Hoses. Hoping it was air sucking or other. No Luck again.

Drove it till it's hot again and on the side of the road in a Parking Bay, turned it off and started it, gave it a lot of rev's and all sounded like it should, except a slight rattle at 4,500RPM which one would expect.

Took off my engine covers, while car is running, feeling for the new replacement hoses I just did to make sure all are ok. Engine Stalled.

Hell, here we go, tried to start it........just turned over.

Tried to back track where I touched and looking at all connectors, NIL noted an issue, tried to start again, No Luck.

Had a can or Either in the back, sprayed it in the air cleaner, started like it would with this crap in it, which I hate to use but it stooped as soon as it used it up.

Fuel for sure, went all over the fuel lines, and when I was touching the hoses my arm or elbow must of hit the outlet from filter hose and dislodged the "O" ring on the into Engine area in front of the fan.

Pushed it back in and tried to start it. Battery was now too low to Prime it up. Flat Battery.

No Phone, No Jumpers just a socket set and can of either areo start.

Walked 10 KM back to home to get a friend to come jump start it. (That will teach me to leave tools, phone where you was working on it and Jumpers in the box also( = Take ALL with you.

Drove back home, and YES still same issue.

That's it for a week Good People, this Mercedes has made my legs sore from walking.

Cheers.

 

[sturgeon]

Oh! What a PITA!

 

[Colterry]

Update:

Today did a full double check, plus also looked and serviced the Auto, new oil / Filter. (Checked to make sure no oil is leaking onto the circuit board area and nil noted. The gear movement is smooth and changing OK)

Car is still the same, perfect in the morning, running cool, but still "EPC" fault when giving it more gas or trying to make it kick down a gear. Then when HOT goes as stated, surging effect when even in top gear and just a slight on the gas, you have this 200 to 400 RPM surge.

Idle and stationary you can hit 4K RPM and no surging.

Also after fixing the air in fuel line last week this has slightly assisted in power but again when cold.

So, 100% at a lost on this one, still revert back to some elect fault, relay or other elect issue, could even be the ECU which I am giving consideration to swapping out but 1st must google to see if I have to re-map it all to swap out..

Next week will place it on Star to see what this comes up with. Now we just enjoy and drive it around town.

 

[a111r]

I think the TPS (throttle pot) can cause the EPC light to come on. I had that on mine.
Easy to swap over from the spares car...

 

[dozypillock]

Update:

Today did a full double check, plus also looked and serviced the Auto, new oil / Filter. (Checked to make sure no oil is leaking onto the circuit board area and nil noted. The gear movement is smooth and changing OK)

Car is still the same, perfect in the morning, running cool, but still "EPC" fault when giving it more gas or trying to make it kick down a gear. Then when HOT goes as stated, surging effect when even in top gear and just a slight on the gas, you have this 200 to 400 RPM surge.

Idle and stationary you can hit 4K RPM and no surging.

Also after fixing the air in fuel line last week this has slightly assisted in power but again when cold.

So, 100% at a lost on this one, still revert back to some elect fault, relay or other elect issue, could even be the ECU which I am giving consideration to swapping out but 1st must google to see if I have to re-map it all to swap out..

Next week will place it on Star to see what this comes up with. Now we just enjoy and drive it around town.

Had similar problems to this on a car years ago. Eventually fault was traced to fuel filler cap. Have you tried running it without?...or one of those cheap emergency ones. Fault I had was breather hose/anti/spill mechanism in fuel cap was creating vacuum in tank, hence fine when cold, and short distances, but problem got worse, as more fuel drawn, then went away as vacuum receded when parked etc....May be worth a try?

 

[Colterry]

OK, have not bothered about this issue, as driving it short distances not an issue, but I did do a few more things...

Yes, removed the fuel cap, and tried it, no different. But point taken.

I have again replaced the battery, 100amp another new one, now have two that are like new.

However, the second, makes the car run better when cold, as we all know there is a lot going on when not in use with these E320 CDI's and while the newest battery assisted in starting, I got the thinking, it's finally down to......SCRAP the car.

Have given up on what the fault is, I will Scrap it now and sell off parts as the location I am in, there are many Merc's around and will get more parting it out than placing it through another RWC.

Will buy another Merc, love the vehicle, this time will know what to look for and stay away from those with issues.

Case Closed and thanks for all comments.

 

[bob6600]

Shame it ended that way. What do you think will be the next one?

 

[Colterry]

bob6600, not sure, but going to list parts on ebay from it now, just placed up the radio / GPS system, I feel I will get 10 times the money for it by parting it out. lol

Lot of packing and shipping in weeks ahead.

To be honest, it is a nice car, I still drive it, however MOT is due in 8 days, so will start selling parts that can still make it derivable for next week and half.

Think will get another, but not estate a sedan, and stick to the E320........ if I get one that operates well can use some parts from this to make it 100%

Cheers.

 

[wu56Shoozz]

TPS Sensor on the pedal...

 

[Colterry]

TPS Sensor on the pedal...

wu56Shoozz

Yes did replace this from another same E320, no difference.

 

[Colterry]

Had similar problems to this on a car years ago. Eventually fault was traced to fuel filler cap. Have you tried running it without?...or one of those cheap emergency ones. Fault I had was breather hose/anti/spill mechanism in fuel cap was creating vacuum in tank, hence fine when cold, and short distances, but problem got worse, as more fuel drawn, then went away as vacuum receded when parked etc....May be worth a try?

Had to just try one last thing, removed the breathe pipe line made sure no foreign objects in it, hit it with air line and even gave the tank a hit with air.
Took it for one last run, no difference, then placed a direct line from tank to filter with a 12 volt electric pump, ran like a dog as looks like ECU noticed that its main pump is not working, but while noticed it running rough I did not get any fault codes pop up.