Mercedes W203 front wheel bearing play

[amazighman]

Hello.

I have a bit if play on the front wheel bearing on my W203 C220 CDI 2006.

I tried adjusting the locking nut and with dial gauge (; cheap ebay one) and got between 0.1 to 0.2 play.
However when I put the wheel on , the play is there although not as bad as before.

Should I just tighten them untill there is absolutely no play? Someone said there is a washer behind the nut which can be used as a feeler gauge when pushed around with a screw driver... I couldn't move the washer as there is no slot or keyway for the screwdriver

Could someone advise?

Cheers

 

[OneForTheRoad]

Its meant to have freeplay . They expand when they warm up. Tighten that nut anymore than is needed and your bearings won't last 80 miles.

 

[amazighman]

Its meant to have freeplay . They expand when they warm up. Tighten that nut anymore than is needed and your bearings won't last 80 miles.

I thought that when you bolt on the road wheel there should be no play whatsoever....

 

[OneForTheRoad]

To do it properly tighten by hand until wheel locks. Then back off 1 half turn. Wheel should spin.

 

[amazighman]

I did tighten by hand but wheel never really locks... Unless you meant to use a spanner to tighten

 

[OneForTheRoad]

No spanners . Hand tight only. Re read post 2.

 

[amazighman]

Ok will re adjust again tomorrow if this horrible weather allows.

 

[amazighman]

Definitely there should be a bit of play when you grab road wheel at 12 and 6 position and rock it?
I always thought there should be no play and if any it should be very very minute

 

[OneForTheRoad]

Definitely there should be a bit of play when you grab road wheel at 12 and 6 position and rock it?
I always thought there should be no play and if any it should be very very minute

Sigh !! On anything other than a Mercedes. Yes .. the bearings are totally different on a rwd . The play on a benz is minimal.

 

[190]

OP you have done the measurement with a dial gauge , I would aim for the lower end of the spec at 0.01mm and call it good. The play should then be just about detectable when you rock the wheel. Any more than that is wear in the joints.

From zero play. the angle of adjuster rotation to achieve the correct free play is nothing like half a turn. The spec is 0.01- 0.02 mm translates to a very small fraction of rotation. You would need to measure the thread pitch to arrive at an accurate figure as an alternative check on the dial gauge method. I have done that in the past and the rotation is very small, something like 10 deg or less.

 

[johnsco]

A small amount of play is essential .
If you over-tighten, then your bearings will fail prematurely.

 

[amazighman]

Hi.
Thanks for the input.
I dont have wear in joints as I have recently fitted new track rod ends and new upper control arms.
The movement is there when I rock the wheel 12-6 position....

I dont know wether its the dial gauge not showing properly or its more likely me that didn't set it up properly....
Does the dial gauge pin have to be pushed in against the axle or just touching it lightly , I did press it in like 1 cm or more and then tried to zero the dial which was a pain and couldn't get it to zero most of time

OP you have done the measurement with a dial gauge , I would aim for the lower end of the spec at 0.01mm and call it good. The play should then be just about detectable when you rock the wheel. Any more than that is wear in the joints.

From zero play. the angle of adjuster rotation to achieve the correct free play is nothing like half a turn. The spec is 0.01- 0.02 mm translates to a very small fraction of rotation. You would need to measure the thread pitch to arrive at an accurate figure as an alternative check on the dial gauge method. I have done that in the past and the rotation is very small, something like 10 deg or less.

 

[markjay]

I thought that when you bolt on the road wheel there should be no play whatsoever....

Nooo....

 

[markjay]

To do it properly tighten by hand until wheel locks. Then back off 1 half turn. Wheel should spin.

In the olden days the rule was: tighten by hand until there's zero play. Then undo by hand until you just start feeling some play... it's a tiny 'click' when you rock the wheel. Then you're good.

But these days there are more clever tools for this...

 

[amazighman]

Makes a lots of sense markjay , I might have to try that if I cant get this dial gauge to work properly....

 

[markjay]

After reaching zero play, you undo the nut and then use the locking pin on the first notch that has play.

 

[190]

I have no specific experience of a W203 but MB's don't usually have castellated nuts with discrete locking positions, they have a split nut which is clamped onto the thread at any chosen position. It's much superior and MB have used it for 30 years or more.

 

[markjay]

See from 3:50 onwards:

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Old school method

(Not MB-specifc).

 

[amazighman]

W203 They have a big nut with a clamping bolt on the side to secure it .
I got an idea , why not to bolt the alloy wheel on and remove the alloy wheel cap which will expose the big nut , I then can check for play and adjust untill there is very very little play , tighten then try with the dial gauge just to be sure?

 

[190]

I'd be surprised if you have enough room through the alloy wheel cap aperture but worth a try. You might be able to turn the nut but won't be able to lock it with the Allen key.