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O2 sensor port size (thread size) E63 M157

Hi buddy
About to pull the trigger on Direnza downpipes, are you still happy with yours & would you recommend them ?
Did you re install the oxygen sensors with spacers on new pipes any warning lights on dash ? Thanks in advance.

Hi buddy, 💯 happy with my particular set up and no regrets whatsoever.

We went to Bichester Heritage last weekend and Skd884 described it as phenomenal, especially when it's taking off, you can hear the turbo whistling.

My particular setup is slightly different though. I have had my resonator and rear muffler removed too and where the resonator used to live, I built a bridge forming a H pipe configuration. The pipes were factory 2.75", but I got the exhaust shop to increase the pipe size to 3" from downpipe onwards. 2.75" is a bit of an uncommon size, usually pipes are 2.5" or 3". Cold start is obnoxiously loud but this only lasts for 20 seconds and my neighbours are okay.

Would recommend you ask Skd884 for a non biased sound advice. He loved the sound and as you know, Skd884 is a hard core m156/m159 enthusiast. 🙂


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Hi buddy
About to pull the trigger on Direnza downpipes, are you still happy with yours & would you recommend them ?
Did you re install the oxygen sensors with spacers on new pipes any warning lights on dash ? Thanks in advance.

The kit comes with O2 spacers. Occasionally the lights used to come on, so I had packed mine with a little wire wool between the sensor and spacer, which has done the trick. If you have it mapped, msl should be able to cancel the lights too. 👍
 
The kit comes with O2 spacers. Occasionally the lights used to come on, so I had packed mine with a little wire wool between the sensor and spacer, which has done the trick. If you have it mapped, msl should be able to cancel the lights too. 👍
Have you mapped yours ?
 
Badgx I'm either swapping out the 212 for something else or thinking of downpipes for the 212. Haven't thought about MOT yet but might do it in April after the next MOT. I can try to get myself less hated by neighbours by closing the flaps on the iPE exhaust and keep them closed come MOT time... I'm down for downpipes mate especially after listening to your beast
 
Badgx I'm either swapping out the 212 for something else or thinking of downpipes for the 212. Haven't thought about MOT yet but might do it in April after the next MOT. I can try to get myself less hated by neighbours by closing the flaps on the iPE exhaust and keep them closed come MOT time... I'm down for downpipes mate especially after listening to your beast

I think you should be fine as you have the valves which can be closed, will help with cold starts. I still have my original system packed away in dry storage which i don't think it will ever go back on? 👍
 
I think you should be fine as you have the valves which can be closed, will help with cold starts. I still have my original system packed away in dry storage which i don't think it will ever go back on? 👍
I agree , my stock exhaust is only going back on if I'm selling the car and a buyer insists they prefer it to the aftermarket one haha

What about your mot with the decat pipes , still passes the emissions?
 
Received mine today, hopefully get them on over weekend, are the spacers for front sensors towards engine or back ones ?
 

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Received mine today, hopefully get them on over weekend, are the spacers for front sensors towards engine or back ones ?

The 2 spacers are for the downstream, it mounts onto the canister and is also adjustable which is useful. Keep the plastic wrap, I used it to wrap the old ones and placed away in dry storage. 👍
 
The 2 spacers are for the downstream, it mounts onto the canister and is also adjustable which is useful. Keep the plastic wrap, I used it to wrap the old ones and placed away in dry storage. 👍

Started today, all was going smoothly then got stuck struggling to disconnect upstream sensor due to lack of space any tips lol.
 
In situ there is absolutely no space to get hands above the gearbox housing to undo the plugs.

I found the sensor wires were long enough to absorb the twist. Make sure there is nothing catching, holding or supporting the wire to enable its full lenght to absorb the twist. Feel the wire as you go, it should feel loose at all times. Slowly, methodically and carefully unwind the sensor until it comes out.

When reinstalling the sensor, add some opposite twist to the wire but not too much, maybe 5 anticlockwise turns before inserting the lamda sensor into the tread. As you tighten the twist will unravel to normal. Also the spacer has an adjustable lock, I would set the lamda sensor as far away as possible from the canister and pre-lock it before adding the sensor. I believe you should be able to get away from adding wire wool, which might block the holes entirely.

Take time and work methodically. Once finished, give downpipe a quick polish with a microfibre towel 👍🙂
 
One other thing, the factory downpipe has an extra bracket to support it. You will not need to use install this, as the downpipe is lightweight 🙂👍
 
All done few day ago, very happy with the results, fitment was spot on, is bank 2 the right side when looking from Front of engine ?
 
All done few day ago, very happy with the results, fitment was spot on, is bank 2 the right side when looking from Front of engine ?

Well done mate, glad to hear your happy, was thinking about your thread this morning and wondered if you had installed it. Need to hear some video clips 🙂

You are correct, Bank 2 is on the right hand side looking from the front of the engine with the bonnet open. Fitment and welding joint are 💯 Did you get check engine light? I get mine pop up sometimes but it doesn't always come back after clearing. I'll need to adjust the spacer or just have it map it out, whichever is easier.
 
Well done mate, glad to hear your happy, was thinking about your thread this morning and wondered if you had installed it. Need to hear some video clips 🙂

You are correct, Bank 2 is on the right hand side looking from the front of the engine with the bonnet open. Fitment and welding joint are 💯 Did you get check engine light? I get mine pop up sometimes but it doesn't always come back after clearing. I'll need to adjust the spacer or just have it map it out, whichever is easier.
Thanks for your help mate, yes light came on After day or so for sensor 2 bank 2 is this the downstream sensor ?
 
Thanks for your help mate, yes light came on After day or so for sensor 2 bank 2 is this the downstream sensor ?

That is correct, it's the O2 sensor that dips into the cannister, it is referring to downstream. So bank 2, that would be the pipe that follows under the passenger side or closest to the front passenger seat. If you have Autel, the reading should fall within an specified range, if it falls short, by adjusting the spacer can bring it back to specs. Take care with the wires though 👍
 
That is correct, it's the O2 sensor that dips into the cannister, it is referring to downstream. So bank 2, that would be the pipe that follows under the passenger side or closest to the front passenger seat. If you have Autel, the reading should fall within an specified range, if it falls short, by adjusting the spacer can bring it back to specs. Take care with the wires though 👍

Code was heater of oxygen sensor 2 bank 2 implausible resistance value
 
Code was heater of oxygen sensor 2 bank 2 implausible resistance value

Occasionally get that too, this will need coding out, heater in the O2 sensor runs overtime at cold start but not when it's up to temps. It's a hollow chamber inside, I don't think you need to make any further adjustments with the spacer, as it's the only code showing as heater. Time for stage 2 map, perhaps consider a resonator delete with H pipe configuration? 😁 👍
 

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