OM642 EGR clean

[W1ghty]

Seen mention recently that the back of the EGR can be removed to check/clean the mechanical inside workings of an egr . Even though I remove mine yearly to spray the gunk off I had never taken it apart before so blaming the sunshine I cracked on with the attempt .
Two bolts to remove the EGR , mine came out easily . I managed to pop the black plastic cover off the valve eventually with only breaking one of the 4 plastic tabs .
The working were fairly clean already but operating them with a finger allows the plunger to be moved a few mm’s to give it a good clean and spray through with carb cleaner .


Word of warning don’t overtighten the two bolts into the soft aluminium threads , I think one of mine is starting to strip but it seems to be holding well enough now .
Maybe there will eventually be another thread of how do I sort this out, but that’s for another day .

 

[unclebuck]

I noticed it was still a bit dirty in places so I have put some arrows on to help you locate these areas!!! LOL

 

[W1ghty]

I noticed it was still a bit dirty in places so I have put some arrows on to help you locate these areas!!! LOLView attachment 120755

That was before I cleaned it buddy !

 

[W1ghty]

I noticed it was still a bit dirty in places so I have put some arrows on to help you locate these areas!!! LOLView attachment 120755

My little jobs today were in honour of the major work you have been doing !

 

[mercmancdi]

Seen mention recently that the back of the EGR can be removed to check/clean the mechanical inside workings of an egr . Even though I remove mine yearly to spray the gunk off I had never taken it apart before so blaming the sunshine I cracked on with the attempt .
Two bolts to remove the EGR , mine came out easily . I managed to pop the black plastic cover off the valve eventually with only breaking one of the 4 plastic tabs .
The working were fairly clean already but operating them with a finger allows the plunger to be moved a few mm’s to give it a good clean and spray through with carb cleaner .
View attachment 120749

Word of warning don’t overtighten the two bolts into the soft aluminium threads , I think one of mine is starting to strip but it seems to be holding well enough now .
Maybe there will eventually be another thread of how do I sort this out, but that’s for another day .

Perhaps if easy to remove stud that you felt going soft you could remove and coat well with a good lock tight paste and replace not to tightly.

 

[W1ghty]

Perhaps if easy to remove stud that you felt going soft you could remove and coat well with a good lock tight paste and replace not to tightly.

Thanks buddy , I ended up trying a different bolt from the turbo shield that seemed to hold .
If that doesn’t work I’ll try threadlock to start with .
The bolt does go straight through the casing so I could always put a nut on the end , if plan A doesn’t work .
Ive ordered a tap and die set as well for the garage , should it be needed for plan B .

 

[mercmancdi]

Thanks buddy , I ended up trying a different bolt from the turbo shield that seemed to hold .
If that doesn’t work I’ll try threadlock to start with .
The bolt does go straight through the casing so I could always put a nut on the end , if plan A doesn’t work .
Ive ordered a tap and die set as well for the garage , should it be needed for plan B .

Some lock tights are coded by colour of bottle tops I know I used one the bus companies use on buses to stop studs vibrating lose .
Seats etc. I think it was blue ( can’t remember for sure ). But I know once it was in even with bad threads next time I tried to remove it I was shocked the pressure it took to get the first turn.

 

[W1ghty]

Some lock tights are coded by colour of bottle tops I know I used one the bus companies use on buses to stop studs vibrating lose .
Seats etc. I think it was blue ( can’t remember for sure ). But I know once it was in even with bad threads next time I tried to remove it I was shocked the pressure it took to get the first turn.

I’ve got a selection in my plumbing toolbox ,i will have a read of the best option .
Thanks

 

[Nicebutdim]

I've had good results with a few strands of copper wire passed through the damaged thread hole. Then just screw in the bolt. This has to be done every time that bolt is removed and replaced.

This even works on the float bowls of motorcycle carbs which are made of very soft pot metal.