Race glaze filter

[kcsun]

Help, its me versus the wife
Her suggestion rather than have a Race glaze unit for the final rinse of the car, use a Brita water filter and put the filtered water in a 50 litre container and use that to rinse the car

Thoughts please..............

kc

 

[st13phil]

A Brita water filter doesn’t remove all the dissolved solids that are in tap water and therefore will not give you the spot-free dried finish that a DI vessel will.

 

[DucatiEVO]

I got my DI vessel and resin from here, works out a fair bit cheaper for the same thing.

Vyair

 

[kcsun]

Thanks as always
kc

 

[Alps]

I got my DI vessel and resin from here, works out a fair bit cheaper for the same thing.

Vyair

I have the Vyair one too, only used it a few times but does the job well

 

[st13phil]

Just to put my comment about a Brita filter not removing all the dissolved solids that are in tap water, I've just tested samples of water directly from my tap and from my Brita jug filter which has a cartridge that's around half way through its 4-week life:

• Tap water: 309ppm TDS (I live in an area that has a TDS level smack in the middle of the "very hard" water classification)
• Brita Filtered water: 211ppm TDS

Water taken at normal hose flow rate from my DI vessel filled with new MB-115 resin is 0ppm, rising to 4 or 5ppm after a few washes.

FWIW, I find that water spotting after rinsing my cars starts to become visible once the TDS level is about 30ppm, and is very visible by the time the TDS level reaches 70ppm indicating that changing the resin is overdue.

 

[kcsun]

Just to put my comment about a Brita filter not removing all the dissolved solids that are in tap water, I've just tested samples of water directly from my tap and from my Brita jug filter which has a cartridge that's around half way through its 4-week life:

• Tap water: 309ppm TDS (I live in an area that has a TDS level smack in the middle of the "very hard" water classification)
• Brita Filtered water: 211ppm TDS

Water taken at normal hose flow rate from my DI vessel filled with new MB-115 resin is 0ppm, rising to 4 or 5ppm after a few washes.

FWIW, I find that water spotting after rinsing my cars starts to become visible once the TDS level is about 30ppm, and is very visible by the time the TDS level reaches 70ppm indicating that changing the resin is overdue.

Wow, Thanks for your informative reply. Do you have a special test meter?

kc

 

[st13phil]

Wow, Thanks for your informative reply. Do you have a special test meter?

Yes, it’s an HM Digital TDS-3 handheld tester. They’re not expensive (about £19) but there are lots of cheaper knock-offs that don’t give accurate results.

 

[Bobby Dazzler]

Yes, it’s an HM Digital TDS-3 handheld tester. They’re not expensive (about £19) but there are lots of cheaper knock-offs that don’t give accurate results.

Must resist the temptation to buy one

 

[kcsun]

Must resist the temptation to buy one

Its only a gallon of petrol!!!
kc

 

[st13phil]

Must resist the temptation to buy one

Always willing to help:

DAQUA - Suppliers of HM Digital TDS3, COM-80, COM-100, AP-1 TDS Meter

UK suppliers of HM Digital Handheld TDS Meters, TDS-3, COM80, AP1, COM100

daqua.co.uk

Just scroll down to the second item

More seriously, it's the only way you can tell whether you have another "spot free" wash / rinse left in your DI vessel before changing the resin.

 

[kcsun]

I found this one for £16.80

HM Digital TDS-4 Pocket-Size TDS Meter

The TDS-4 is an ideal pocket meter that can be used for any and all applications, ranging from water purification, to hydroponics, to aquariums, to industrial waste water treatment. Pocket size makes it ideal for portability and storage. Hold Function Auto-off Function (After 10 min.) Factory...

www.osmotics.co.uk

kc

 

[Blobsta]

I have the RG filter, have had it years now and it is well worth the money IMHO, we are in a very hard water area too and as others have suggested it is far superior to Britain. As it happens, I took deliver of 25l MB115 this morning to refill it. This has really shot up in price of late, I used to buy from Daqua but they were more expensive than an eBay seller, bit of a shame as I like to stick with and support a good supplier where possible.

+1 for the argument for RG would be to rinse your windows with Britt filtered water as that will leave spots and then buy the RG filter to prove it's superiority. Downside= you'll have to wash your windows with it also in the future but you'll save on window cleaner costs.

 

[suty455]

Hmm I like to clean my car and have it well turned out but seriously cant you just dry it?
Spent Today fallout removing, claying, polishing and then finally ceramic coating, washed with Tap water btw with a Bilt hamber snow foam before hand.
Is there a real reason to use one of these?

 

[AMGeed]

Hmm I like to clean my car and have it well turned out but seriously cant you just dry it?
Spent Today fallout removing, claying, polishing and then finally ceramic coating, washed with Tap water btw with a Bilt hamber snow foam before hand.
Is there a real reason to use one of these?

If you live in a hard water area and have a dark coloured car, washing it and rinsing with plain tap water on a hot day will result in water spots appearing before you have had the chance to go around the car with microfibre towels to dry it off.

I'm seriously considering getting a DI vessel and resin and just doing a final rinse with ionised water and letting it drip dry, safe in the knowledge there will be no water spots. It's not cheap initially, but worth the layout for the final product IMO.

 

[Bobby Dazzler]

I'm seriously considering getting a DI vessel and resin and just doing a final rinse with ionised water and letting it drip dry, safe in the knowledge there will be no water spots. It's not cheap initially, but worth the layout for the final product IMO.

That’s exactly what I do, final rinse is all you need to do with the DI as long as you don’t let the car dry during the wash.

My final step ia to apply a spray on hydrophobic sealant and rinse off immediately with water from the DI.

The finish is always perfect.

 

[st13phil]

rinsing with plain tap water on a hot day will result in water spots appearing before you have had the chance to go around the car with microfibre towels to dry it off.

I have strong sunlight on my driveway (where we keep and I wash our cars) in the summer months and it’s impossible to wash a car without leaving water spots unless I use water filtered through a DI vessel.

I tried to use filtered water just for the final rinse but the hard water dries and leaves marks quicker than it’s possible to wash the car and swap over. I therefore ”rinse as I go” with filtered water.

 

[fabes]

I bought the Vyair resin vessel and a new hose reel a few weeks back (in part due to having got a mid blue car)

The hours I have spent with a detailer spray going round (and round) cars in the cold or even in the heat trying to get chalk and mineral spots off , even a white Xtrail the wheels the girls Corsas, the two Pano roofs etc are now a distant memory.

Get one Roger, for the final rinse you won't look back

 

[Deleted member 126251]

Hmm I like to clean my car and have it well turned out but seriously cant you just dry it?
Spent Today fallout removing, claying, polishing and then finally ceramic coating, washed with Tap water btw with a Bilt hamber snow foam before hand.
Is there a real reason to use one of these?

The main idea is that there is less contact on the paint and thus less chance of scratching.

However, drying is the part I hate the most. Wash the car rinse, rinse with filtered water, park in garage.

 

[Deleted member 126251]

............. that don’t give accurate results.

How do you know & how inaccurate would a cheap one be? Not fighting just want to know.

I have a cheap unit and can see 000 (which rises over a few months) for my filtered water vs numbers in the 100s for unfiltered water.

I wonder how accurate a rinse water meter needs to be!?