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Race glaze filter

How do you know & how inaccurate would a cheap one be? Not fighting just want to know.
No worries. You use a calibration fluid, such as this:
 
Just realised I have posted on the 'detailing' section . 🤔 :eek:

It's a slippery slope !! :banana:

P.S I live in a area with VERY hard water and white spots are problem on all 3 cars . They are all silver ! Only my white van escapes the 'white spot' disease.
 
Please don’t take offence.......but, reading these posts I’ve got that feeling like when you have a bad dream and wake up not knowing (for a few seconds) wether an experience has been real or not.
God I must really neglect my car.
 
I got my DI vessel and resin from here, works out a fair bit cheaper for the same thing. :)

Vyair
Do you use an RO stage in front of the DI vessel, or straight off the tap? I used to cover Oxford before I retired and I serviced Lab grade water machines, so I know how hard the water is in Oxford (and where I live). I always meant to put something together with spare RO filters I ended up with, but of course now I've retired and I never got round to it.

I might treat myself to a DI vessel for when I get my black RS2000 to the stage where I can actually wash it again (currently covered in dust and grinding mess from the welding I've been doing). Might be useful for rinsing our C200 as well, though I do have an outside tap that is softened water after I installed a water softener for the whole house, so I always use that when washing the cars.
 
Do you use an RO stage in front of the DI vessel, or straight off the tap?
DI vessel straight from the tap for me.

I was advised that an RO stage would only be worthwhile if it was used to pre-filter water to a tank at a low flow rate as the flow rate from an open tap was too high for an RO stage to be properly effective?
 
Thanks @st13phil these are obviously a different set up to what I worked on before I retired; we actually had pumps to increase tap water pressure into the RO stage so they could work more effectively.

Do you, or any others on this thread have a rough idea of how many litres I'd get from one of their 11 litre vessels before the resin needs replacing? I realise that it will depend on feed water quality, which mine is particularly hard (approx 650uS or so).
 
Do you, or any others on this thread have a rough idea of how many litres I'd get from one of their 11 litre vessels before the resin needs replacing?
I can't tell you in litres as I don't measure it, but my suds bucket is just filled with ordinary unfiltered tap water and I use a hose with a trigger-gun on the outlet of the DI vessel to first wet the car and then to rinse it "as I go" during the wash. I always let the car drip dry, and don't use a drying cloth. I find that I get seven or perhaps eight spot-free washes out of a resin fill, using Tulsion MB-115 resin in an 11-litre vessel and I'm in North Oxfordshire. HTH?
 
Do you use an RO stage in front of the DI vessel, or straight off the tap?
Nope, no need really as it comes out 0ppm from the vessel (RO setup wasn't worth the extra grief with the wastage), the resin just needs renewing more often, but for the amount I clean the cars it doesn't really bother me. :)
 

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