Rear susp makeover plan - do I need anymore parts?

[jpod]

Hi I am paying my local mech to changes some rear suspension parts over on my old merc, a 2003 C Class W203, this squeaks like an old pram on the left and it is the rubber inserts - they are all a bit naff. I got this kit on ebay. It looks like overkill but it sorts out some MOT issues on the horizon too.

I know about asking the mech to tighten the bushings when the car wheel is loaded.

My questions are:
Will there be any other jobs/parts on the rear suspension to do at the same time? Anything I - as a rookie - may not have appreciated?

Will it need wheel alignment afterwards?

Febi BILSTEIN Control Arm Set 10 Pieces Rear Axle Mercedes C- Class W203 CLK 209
(If this is of interested put it in ebay and the supplier in Germany pops up).

Incidentally, delivery was very fast

Thanks

I will post some feedback too.

 

[Doodle]

If you're going to all that effort, then you might as well replace the lower arms as well. Also, there's a fluid filled joint that attaches the lower arm to the hub carrier, which probably will be toast by now. Access isn't great but there's a specific tool that makes the job ridiculously easy.

Yes, you'll need to realign as you're changing the tie link (the jointed arms at the bottom).

 

[jpod]

Thanks Doodle

That is very helpful indeed - thanks for sharing your expertise. I am not sure which lower arm/joint that is but I will use my google-fu and figure that out.

Are you a Martha and the Muffins fan? Echo Beach - great tune I can remember that on the radio sat on the floor playing scalextric at my mates house! Those cars were much easier to maintain. BW pod

 

[pmcgsmurf]

Also if you have that much stripped down and you have the ABS reluctor rings on the driveshafts well worth changing these at the same time as they are little more than £10 for OEM.

 

[Doodle]

That is very helpful indeed - thanks for sharing your expertise. I am not sure which lower arm/joint that is but I will use my google-fu and figure that out.

Mercedes C Class (W203) Rear Damper Replacement

Lower arm locates the spring, shock, ARB and bottom of the hub carrier. The joint with the hub carrier uses this bushing:

 

[jpod]

Thanks fellas, that is really helpful and increases my Merc IQ.

Doodle I identified that as a control arm trailing arm bush.

Am I right in thinking that kit illustrated above includes the lower arms? Apologies for my rookie level of knowledge.

McSmurf - thanks for this - I am having a look into that - never heard of it..... finding out more.

BW pod

 

[Doodle]

No, it doesn't include the lower control arms (sometimes also called the spring link or spring arm).

 

[jpod]

No, it doesn't include the lower control arms (sometimes also called the spring link or spring arm).

Apologies for being a noob.

Are these the correct parts? I won't hold you to it by the way.

Control arm lower rear
They appear to be the same part, I need two:

Track Control Arm LEMFÖRDER 25173 02 Rear Axle, Lower, Left and right, Rear, Control Arm — Buy now!

It's for a W203 2003 so the listing says suitable for the following which appears a perfect fit:
MERCEDES-BENZ C-Class Saloon (W203) C 180 Kompressor (203.046), Year of Construction 05.2002 - 02.2007, 1796 , 143 PS

And the ball joint:
Control Arm- / Trailing Arm Bush LEMFÖRDER 34756 01 Rear Axle — Buy now!

Many thanks

It's going to get booked in mid February and I will badger Danny to take some pics and attempt to extract some info out of him!

BW pod

 

[Doodle]

Lower control arm/spring link - wrong part, should look like this

The part you've linked is already included in the kit from your first post, at the bottom.

 

[IanW]

On the W209 CLK (same rear suspension as the W203, I believe) one of those rear control arms (front, upper??) has a bolt that requires the rear subframe to be dropped. Not a job I'd fancy doing.
When the weather gets a bit warmer, I'll be doing the more easily replaced arms.
Ian.

 

[jpod]

Thanks for this will have a look again.

 

[Petrol Pete]

Mercedes C Class (W203) Rear Damper Replacement

Lower arm locates the spring, shock, ARB and bottom of the hub carrier. The joint with the hub carrier uses this bushing:

This is the one that squeaks and groans the most. Mine did, I replaced both and the rubber one on the other end of the arm. You will need pull/press tool to get them out . Do NOT try to hit them in/out with a hammer. Note the kit you show does not include 2 of these , 2 of the elastomer bushes for the other end or the new nuts and bolts required.

 

[Petrol Pete]

On the W209 CLK (same rear suspension as the W203, I believe) one of those rear control arms (front, upper??) has a bolt that requires the rear subframe to be dropped. Not a job I'd fancy doing.
When the weather gets a bit warmer, I'll be doing the more easily replaced arms.
Ian.

You might well be correct. And as said the rear wheel alignment will have to be done as two of the bolts are eccentric to set the alignment.

 

[Petrol Pete]

OP , they usually state tightening everything up with the weight of the car on the wheels, If you do not have a pit or 4 wheel ramp It is almost impossible to get under the car to do it. The 'poor mans' method is to take a measurement from the wheel to the wheel arch when the car is on the ground and use a trolley jack under the wheel to push it up to the same measurement while making sure not to lift the car off the axle stands.

 

[Petrol Pete]

It's a 2003 , have you any MOT advisories on 'corroded brake pipes' ? If you have they might be much easier to get to when you have all the links out as some of them go in between the rear sub frame and the floor pan and are a bugger to get to.

 

[Doodle]

This is the one that squeaks and groans the most. Mine did, I replaced both and the rubber one on the other end of the arm. You will need pull/press tool to get them out .

Klann do the specific workshop tool - KLANN-Product Card - that makes it ridiculously easy to change.

I see that it's become rather expensive though, I paid about £60 for mine!

 

[Petrol Pete]

It's a lot of money for a pretty much once in a lifetime job. I bought a real cheap and nasty one on line, the thrust bearings shattered and the screw thread bent. Luckily I have access to all sorts of engineering resources to make good. A DIY bloke doing on his drive would be put deep in the poop if such an extractor fails halfway through the job. Cheap. Not recommended.

 

[jpod]

Hi sorry for the slow response - busy time - thank you very much indeed for the replies P/Pete & Doodle - really appreciated and increased my Merc IQ.

This advice is golden. I have ordered the reluctor rings, bushes and the lower spring arms. My mech Danny was aware of the need to load the suspension when I last met him which was a good sign - he appears to know his stuff.

I will ask him about the tool and the rear brake pipes could do with a refresh - they are covered with 'grease' for MOT purposes!

When the jobs done if I have the opportunity to get some pics I will post them.

BW pod

 

[pmcgsmurf]

brake pipes could do with a refresh - they are covered with 'grease' for MOT purposes!

One of my per hates. Complete disregard for safety.

 

[jpod]

One of my per hates. Complete disregard for safety.

Rest assured there is nothing wrong with my vehicles brakes or my regard for safety. It is my girlfriends vehicle.

In my experience over enthusiastic mechanics/test stations highlight them as MOT issues when the are not. I was told they needed replacement. My local Merc Indy assessed them, cleaned them up and said they were entirely safe.