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removing fan on W124

SilverSaloon

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 16, 2004
Messages
7,758
Car
1994 W124 E300D Estate, 1985 R107 280SL
Hi

can anyone advise how to remove the fan on my 1994 W124. It appears a 10mm allen key fits it (hard to see very well as access is tight with the rads in place).

anyway, i tried to turn this and it just turns the fan the pullys aswell, even with the belts still taught.

does anyone know a safe and best place to jam the pullys so they dont turn so i can get enough strength on the allen key to undo the fan?

cheers!

Derek
 
you dont really have to jam it, a bit of shock usually does the job.
 
I cant remember now if it was a reverse thread or not... I dont think it is but I do recall something about it at the time...

Its pretty easy to remove the rad and get a impact gun on it to release if I recall and then there's no need to brace it for sure.
 
I cant remember now if it was a reverse thread or not... I dont think it is but I do recall something about it at the time...

Its pretty easy to remove the rad and get a impact gun on it to release if I recall and then there's no need to brace it for sure.

i've removed the main rad before which was easy enough, but the aircon rad+fans etc are all there too. the reason for removal is to be able to get a socket on the pully 10mm bolts to slacken it to be able to remove and refit a new belt damper. on my other w124 i used an open ended spanner to loosen these bolts with the fan in place, but 2 of the 10mm bolts are begin troublesome and rounding so i need to use a socket
 
our very own spinal.. and no need for the metal rod as a brace, just shock the vicous coupling nut and it'll release.
 
Last edited:
Derek I had a similar issue so did it this way:-


I had already removed the tensioner pulley and the spring and I noted that the tensioner pivot had a plastic cover on it which reveals a 17mm allen bolt. Yikes nothing that big in my tool box!!, so after some head scratching a friend suggested whipping an alloy wheel bolt off. Then we slid a 17mm ring spanner on the bolt before sliding the rest of the bolt head making a Heath Robinson allen key and inserting it into the allen socket. Protecting the radiator core with a piece of plywood I put a tube on the open ended part of the spanner and wound the pivot bolt back a few turns. This enabled the tensioner assembly to move just enough to slide the bottom bolt of the shock out so the old one could come away and the new one be fitted.

Hope this helps.
 
I have the WIS document for this, but it's too big to attach to a reply, and I can't see how you attach to a PM. Can you tell me how or PM your email and I'll send it. Pretty straightforward, but I always prefer to have the official version handy.

Malcolm
 
There is a special Mercedes tool which locks the boss that the viscous coupling is attached to. I made my own tool from a decorators radiator roller ( as used to paint behind a household central heating radiator). See if you can find a picture of the proper tool on the web, you will see what I mean. Anyway the tool slips into a hole at the back of the boss and locks it solidly. I removed the radiator when I did the viscous coupling, fan clutch, on my 300te last year. It made things easier for me to see and also gave the system a good flush through.
 
the fan clutch is fine, i just need to get enough access to get a socket on the 4 small pully 10mm bolts to slightly undo them to allow enough movement on the pully to allow the lower bolt of the engine damper to remove enough for the damper to be replaced.

on my other W124 i got a spanner in there and they loosened fine, but unfortunatly 2 out of the 4 bolts are prooving difficult and rounding.
 
I've just done the tensioner shocker on a friends car today using the 17mm allen pivot bolt technique Derek, done in no time.;)
 
Sorry, I misunderstood your problem, hope that all is easily solved and that the other guys have answered your question.
 
I've just done the tensioner shocker on a friends car today using the 17mm allen pivot bolt technique Derek, done in no time.;)

Hi. Followed your advice and removed the tensioner pully and the 17mm hex bolt to move the tensioner upwards to remove the bolt. it worked!!

thanks again
 

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