Replacing control arm - will I need tracking done after ?

[VenomX]

All fitted fine. Did the inner bush torqued to 120Nm, and the ball joint nut to 70Nm. Test drive, all OK - tracking feels fine. Once I am done doing the rest of the arms, I will still get it checked

Fairly big job as it involved partially removing the strut, dropping the ARB bracket, drop link, tray, and some trim.

Thankfully everything came out ok, no ball joint splitter needed.

 

[markjay]

All fitted fine. Did the inner bush torqued to 120Nm, and the ball joint nut to 70Nm. Test drive, all OK - tracking feels fine. Once I am done doing the rest of the arms, I will still get it checked

Fairly big job as it involved partially removing the strut, dropping the ARB bracket, drop link, tray, and some trim.

Thankfully everything came out ok, no ball joint splitter needed.

Well done


You took photos and videos and will be posting a How To write-up, yes......?

 

[toteimerced]

Thought it’s supposed to be 120 degrees, not 120nm.

 

[VenomX]

Thought it’s supposed to be 120 degrees, not 120nm.

80Nm on the torque wrench plus 120deg would be roughly 120Nm. This is what a couple of YouTube tutorials suggest and on a few forum posts.

 

[Petrol Pete]

Thankfully everything came out ok, no ball joint splitter needed.

I will repeat myself here . I have done this job twice on my own 203 C class and on both occasions it has been impossible to remove the conical ball joint end from the hub without using a ball joint splitter.

Admittedly they sometimes just fall out but that is more the exception than the rule .

I repeat what I posted earlier , both FCP and Autodoc tutorial videos make no mention of 'degrees' after torque settings as per your Haynes manual.

Did you check with MB WIS and could you please link the tutorials you used.

It could be that the conical holes in the hubs of your car are deformed from overtightening in the past , unlikely , but worth investigation.

Please do not post a 'how to' tutorial until some of us agree on the setting required to do this job.

Cheers.

 

[VenomX]

Thankfully everything came out ok, no ball joint splitter needed.

I will repeat myself here . I have done this job twice on my own 203 C class and on both occasions it has been impossible to remove the conical ball joint end from the hub without using a ball joint splitter.

Admittedly they sometimes just fall out but that is more the exception than the rule .

I repeat what I posted earlier , both FCP and Autodoc tutorial videos make no mention of 'degrees' after torque settings as per your Haynes manual.

Did you check with MB WIS and could you please link the tutorials you used.

It could be that the conical holes in the hubs of your car are deformed from overtightening in the past , unlikely , but worth investigation.

Please do not post a 'how to' tutorial until some of us agree on the setting required to do this job.

Cheers.

Thanks for the info. I was surprised too that the ball joint came out of the hub with minimal effort. The arm previously fitted was the stock factory one. I did use a lot of penetrant and wire brush beforehand.
Are you sure you are referring to the same arm I am ? I think the technical name is a thrust arm. ( There are two either side at the front, and the one I did yesterday which requires the strut to be partly detached came out with minimal effort )

In regards to torque settings. I could not find any "official" information. Just like yourself, I do doubt Haynes sometimes as their adjustment specifications can be a bit unrealistic and borderline wrong.
The only info I could find regarding torque settings were as follows;
This thread, where one person said 80Nm + 120deg is correct, someone further down suggested that 120Nm would do the same job.
forums.mbclub.co.uk/threads/torquing-control-arm.304472

And on this YouTube video, the guy is replacing every control arm on the car ( front and rear )
He states torquing up to 120Nm

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The tutorial on AutoDoc for the W203 does not have any torque specs for the arm I installed yesterday. However for the C219, that uses a very similar arm which is torqued as follows according to autodoc


Also, on AutoDoc - for the other control arm ( the smaller one, that I have not done yet ) it states 80Nm + 120deg...


FCP Euro on their YouTube video, state 80Nm. I think this is what you are suggesting ?
Thanks

 

[OneForTheRoad]

This one ?

 

[Petrol Pete]

This one ?

View attachment 167450

No , the car in question is a 203 c class

 

[VenomX]

This one ?

View attachment 167450

Photo attached..
Old and New arm is this one...

 

[OneForTheRoad]

Photo attached..
Old and New arm is this one...
View attachment 167454

Can see the hammer marks

 

[VenomX]

Can see the hammer marks

Lol, seriously. I did not use a hammer or ball joint splitter. I had them handy in case I needed to but didn't.