OneForTheRoad
MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2015
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- 7,855
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- uk.
- Car
- 2024 Audi sq5 - 2019 Glc coupe 350d was 2017 e350 c207 .. +65 ford kuga 2.0 cdi zetec awd..
maybe mb took delivery of some EICHER discs ??
Rusting Brake discs
- Thread starter Turbo1
- Start date
chrisk2010
MB Enthusiast
Always been quite impressed with Merc brakes myself, brought a C class changed the brakes at 98,000 miles 9 years ago and i only just changed them end of last year (few months ago) with about 170 / 180k on the clock and it still doesn't do a lot of mileage as i gave it to my dad who retired and only uses it to go to lidl every two weeks. He loves a bit of Lidl 
Now when i brought that car i lived and worked on a farm in Essex so it done very very very little mileage most of it's life with me and could easily sit around for well over three weeks without a run and the only problem i ever encountered was realeasing the parking brake as it used to get a bit stuck.
After a few heavy stops down a lane the rust quickly cleared and was good to go i was more worried about the engine and of course the body work than the brakes so used to just start it and let it idle to operating temp a couple of times a week.
I would absolutely love to help you provide a winning argument but there are three pages of members saying it not a good idea and not only that i don't have one. Steel will rust on the surface just because of the moisture in the air.
Why not try some wheel covers if your really worried couldn't hurt i suppose ... Reflective Wheel Covers > Cars, Motorhomes & Caravans like these i'm not promoting them just using that site as a reference.
Now when i brought that car i lived and worked on a farm in Essex so it done very very very little mileage most of it's life with me and could easily sit around for well over three weeks without a run and the only problem i ever encountered was realeasing the parking brake as it used to get a bit stuck.
After a few heavy stops down a lane the rust quickly cleared and was good to go i was more worried about the engine and of course the body work than the brakes so used to just start it and let it idle to operating temp a couple of times a week.
I would absolutely love to help you provide a winning argument but there are three pages of members saying it not a good idea and not only that i don't have one. Steel will rust on the surface just because of the moisture in the air.
Why not try some wheel covers if your really worried couldn't hurt i suppose ... Reflective Wheel Covers > Cars, Motorhomes & Caravans like these i'm not promoting them just using that site as a reference.
I
Is that a good idea ?
I thought a car in storage should be taken on a decent run to achieve full oil temperature or not started at all.
Off topic I know but the WD40 thing has been done to death.
Is that a good idea ?
I thought a car in storage should be taken on a decent run to achieve full oil temperature or not started at all.
Off topic I know but the WD40 thing has been done to death.
chrisk2010
MB Enthusiast
It's still running 
! always thought it's better to start it let it run up to temp 30 minutes or more and revs the throttle to 3000 rpm for a few minutes gently, don't just sit there foot to the floor making sure the limiter is do it's job.
I always liked to do this to get the fluids flowing and burn the damp off the engine bay as it wasn't in storage it was in a car park, in a drier storage climate i may not have worried as much.
In those days i worked from 5am to 10pm 6-7 days a week there was never much time to do anything else so it sat there polished a waxed within an inch of it's life until i got a rare day off.
! always thought it's better to start it let it run up to temp 30 minutes or more and revs the throttle to 3000 rpm for a few minutes gently, don't just sit there foot to the floor making sure the limiter is do it's job.I always liked to do this to get the fluids flowing and burn the damp off the engine bay as it wasn't in storage it was in a car park, in a drier storage climate i may not have worried as much.
In those days i worked from 5am to 10pm 6-7 days a week there was never much time to do anything else so it sat there polished a waxed within an inch of it's life until i got a rare day off.
It's fine if the engine really gets up to temperature but coolant temperature isn't enough as oil temperature always lags the coolant temperature by some considerable time if it ever gets there at all on an unloaded engine. You need the oil hot to burn off condensation and the dilution effects of fuel from the cold start. It might be better to run it less often but for longer on each occasion.
It's all about how quickly the oil reaches temp as up until then you potentially have more engine wear.
Older classic cars - run to temp while stationary.
Modern cars - take it for a gentle run, as they're designed for cold starts and get to temp most efficiently while running.
Older classic cars - run to temp while stationary.
Modern cars - take it for a gentle run, as they're designed for cold starts and get to temp most efficiently while running.
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