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SL55 running costs?

Buffy d

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Oct 20, 2016
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48
Car
2009 Supercharged E92 M3, 1998 BMW E39 540i
Hi all, I've been trying to brush it under the carpet for years but the desire to own an SL55 simply won't go away (I've been ignoring it for about 16 years…). I am seriously considering one as a second car in the near future and wanted to get a handle on real-world running costs. I've done my research so I know about the struts, ABC valve blocks, SBC, tandem pump, roof pump, roof seals, boot seals and intercooler pump, which I think covers most of the problems?! Realistically I'd only be doing maybe 3000 miles a year, which makes me think I could stomach the potential repair costs… I was thinking that if I had a war chest with a few grand set aside for emergency repairs that would probably be ok? Thanks in advance for any and all advice and guidance
smile.gif
 
Sounds like you have fully researched possible pitfalls with this model and are going into it with your eyes wide open. Definitely a lovely car with a peach of an engine.

When viewing, check everything electrical is operating as it should. Dodgy control modules and broken wiring that stop mirrors adjusting and heated seats that don't work all cost money to put right. On a test drive, go full throttle where possible in quick succession. If the car stops pulling strongly in every gear, your intercooler pump may need replacing as it can't cope with the heat soak from the supercharger. If possible, get it inspected by an indy you trust. He should be able to point out any faults and what may be a good buy. Money well spent.
I'm sure owners of the model will jump in and advise on other things but hopefully Ive touched on a couple of points.
 
Expected mileage however low won't compensate for mechanical gremlins. In fact the opposite, more miles per failure is better..

That said, great cars, look for full service history with maintenance, no expense spared.
 
I’ve spent over £7500 in the last two years on my 2006 SL500
And it was looked after
But even with only 50000 miles it’s a 12 year old car
Things go wrong
I use an MB dealer to ensure the work is top quality
That’s my experience
 
I use an MB dealer to ensure the work is top quality

Unfortunately paying more doesn’t always mean better
 
Great cars , still quick enough even after all these years , engine is a masterpiece . Seems like you've done your homework , full history is a must , expect 8-10 mpg round town 18-20 on a run . Enjoy
 
Yep. MB dealers are useless with servicing older cars and will rip you off. Find a good specialist.
 
Great cars , still quick enough even after all these years , engine is a masterpiece . Seems like you've done your homework , full history is a must , expect 8-10 mpg round town 18-20 on a run . Enjoy
8-10MPG? I did see 9mpg once but that was in a traffic jam( stood still) & the car was not warmed up, normally ,traffic flowing 20 -35mph I would see 15 - 18mpg, 19 - 23(ish) on a run @ 70 - 90mph, mine was a E55 though so maybe SL55 have different final drive ?
Have to say Buffy, I have had some fast cars, but i went out with a pal who had a SL55 that had the underdrive pulley & re map etc & he blasted it ( the sod) &I felt my legs tingling & my mind could hardly keep up with the scenery coming at me! So fast, I guess when you're driving your concentrating more so don't notice so much plus I hate being driven , but boy do these cars go if fettled properly...I used to have a tuned 4.5 TVR Cerbera & that didn't hang about , but the mid range of that Sl55 was mind blowing.
 
Yep. MB dealers are useless with servicing older cars and will rip you off.

Depends on the dealer. The one I go to gives decent discounts on older cars i.e. at 9+ years it's 40% off labour plus 15% off parts, and £20 MOTs.
 
Thanks for all the advice, everyone, much appreciated :)

Have to say Buffy, I have had some fast cars, but i went out with a pal who had a SL55 that had the underdrive pulley & re map etc & he blasted it ( the sod) &I felt my legs tingling & my mind could hardly keep up with the scenery coming at me! So fast, I guess when you're driving your concentrating more so don't notice so much plus I hate being driven , but boy do these cars go if fettled properly...I used to have a tuned 4.5 TVR Cerbera & that didn't hang about , but the mid range of that Sl55 was mind blowing.

Sounds awesome :D If I do go for one then my long-term plans do involve some mods and those include a pulley and map :) I have missed owning a quick car - fastest thing I've had was a Toyota Supra years ago that was pushing around 380hp and was pretty brisk, but it would be nice to have something with some serious power!

Oh, another question: would you all suggest prioritising low mileage or evidence of extensive repairs and maintenance? Obviously both would be best but, for example, I spotted one the other day with over 97k miles, which would put me off, but the owner has receipts of over £15k of repairs over the past couple of years that included front shocks, SBC etc. so in that case I wonder if that means that, despite the high mileage, it should mean at least some peace of mind for a little while?
 
Problem with low mileage cars is that as soon as they are driven hard then often hidden faults appear , ask me how I know! Reasonable mileage, complete service history and even better lots of bills for new parts would be my choice
 
Thanks for all the advice, everyone, much appreciated :)



Sounds awesome :D If I do go for one then my long-term plans do involve some mods and those include a pulley and map :) I have missed owning a quick car - fastest thing I've had was a Toyota Supra years ago that was pushing around 380hp and was pretty brisk, but it would be nice to have something with some serious power!

Oh, another question: would you all suggest prioritising low mileage or evidence of extensive repairs and maintenance? Obviously both would be best but, for example, I spotted one the other day with over 97k miles, which would put me off, but the owner has receipts of over £15k of repairs over the past couple of years that included front shocks, SBC etc. so in that case I wonder if that means that, despite the high mileage, it should mean at least some peace of mind for a little while?
Toyota Supra's - monster cars if you get a good one. Son's '92 one has 560 bhp and scares me.:eek:
I've always gone for very low mileage stuff, the only problem I have ever had was a torque converter failing, but it was 50 years old! Others obviously have different opinions.
 
I always try & look for low number of owners & MB history for the 1st 10-12yrs & a good Mot History tells you a lot,IMO.
 
I have done exactly what you are proposing to do which is running one as a second car.

Early days, but thus far my principal issue has been the Intercooler pump which was pennies, and after some discussion was paid for by the selling agent.

So far as the car issues are concerned, I think you have listed most except the legendary issues with the roof seals. Whilst the car I bought had them done recently, I will likely never test them as the car lives in a garage and is highly unlikely to see rain during my ownership (unless caught out in a storm of course!).

I was searching for ages, but eventually found myself a one owner car with full Merc Service History and around 47k miles. I tend to agree with the comments on indy v merc, though I took considerable comfort from the fact that the car had been maintained by one garage for its life (providing some consistency). I was also comforted that the previous owner had not shirked away from some considerable bills over the years.

Good luck with your search! Well worth it imho.

JJ
 
Owned her for 4 years now and she hasnt as much as coughed!
Quite rare havent seen one for months.
However i am quite proactive when it comes to looking after her, namely hunting down dodgy systems (which you have already mentioned) and fixing them if they show any hint of a problem.
Forget main dealers - major rip off merchants. Stick with a word of mouth local indy.
More personal and they are enthusiastic too.
Biggest probs so far:
Failed an mot on lower ball joints. These come as part of the hyd struts which are 1500 each.
But with "the knowledge" got them done by a VOSA approved local garage for £130 the pair!
Fuel filter- you have to drop rear axle to get to it. Not cheap but mine was almost fully clogged.
PSE pump in the boot which drives air systems like locks and soft closing needs checking out as it sits under the hood pump in the boot and if water gets in - yikes! £1400. But again with the knowledge a guy in the UK does replacement ones for £400.
Supercharger oil needs changing occasionally and is more expensive than liquid gold.
Luckily you dont need much.
ABC fluid and filters treat with respect and change often.
She's my 'other' car and does about 7000 a summer.
Insurance £280 agreed value (£18000 for a 2002 plate).
Fuel round town: 18 -20. Long haul: 20-23.
Tyres every 12000 miles.
Stinking fast problem is no-where to use it in the UK which means shes going soon.
Love her dearly and looks the bees knees roof down.
 
Depends on the dealer. The one I go to gives decent discounts on older cars i.e. at 9+ years it's 40% off labour plus 15% off parts, and £20 MOTs.

Fair enough.... most dealers will rip you off and know nothing about older cars.
 

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