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Starting prblem

Joined
Sep 27, 2014
Messages
46
Car
Mercedes 230te
Hi all.
My 230te only starts properly when its cold. Once its been used, it struggles to re-start. :confused:
Also, The same with the auto box. When it's cold it goes into reverse fine but once warmed up, it really jumps into reverse. :dk:
Any ideas would be very much appreciated.
Thanks.
 
Misfire cured now? What caused it? Leads, dizzy cap, etc?

Hi all.
My 230te only starts properly when its cold. Once its been used, it struggles to re-start. :confused:

Accompanied by black smoke from exhaust when it does finally start?


Also, The same with the auto box. When it's cold it goes into reverse fine but once warmed up, it really jumps into reverse. :dk:
Any ideas would be very much appreciated.
Thanks.

Did you check the oil level? And look for any darkening in colour, and smell of burning?
 
Hi there. No smoke from exhaust at all. The oil in the gearbox looks and smells fine. The fluid is about 10mm over the max line. (Tested correctly). Is this enough to have that much of an affect only in one gear.
The misfire was a funny thing. It doesn't misfire when it's running anymore. But what it does do is... when I start it from cold, it's fine with no problems at all. Once it's warmed up and I switch off then back on, it struggles to start and when it fires it sounds like it's still misfiring. After 1-2 seconds it's as smooth as it should be. I put some fresh fuel in today and it had a dramatic affect on the performance, (much better), (I think the people I bought it off had it sat around for ages), but still struggles to start when up to temp.
Same with the gearbox jumping into reverse when up to temp. Also it wont change into top until it reaches 4000 rpm. (unless I take my foot right off the throttle). I heard this is normal for the older W124's as they were built for the German autobahn's without Europe in mind. I used to have a 1990 W124 200te. This was very different to the 230 I have now. Apparently by 1990 they were built more with the British market in mind and the gearing was different. What do you think?
 
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Often, an engine that starts easily from cold but not hot is an overfuelling problem, and usually accompanied by black smoke when it finally catches. None in your case though.
Might be worth pulling a plug when it does it. Dry plug means no fuel, wet plug points to no spark or overfuelling. Points you in the direction of what next to check.
(Older cars can suffer from a blocked fuel tank vent which can cause fuel starvation but it would manifest itself most likely while still running; be less likely to clear on finally starting, but would/could cause hot start problem. Easily checked by removing filler cap. Sharp inrush of air is the sign - unlikely to be the issue here, but as so easily checked...)

As for reverse - stumped. Internal fault perhaps/probably. Previously mentioned clutch?
 
Yeah maybe. Thanks.
Do you think the not changing into top until 4000 rpm's is right?
 
My W123 200 didn't have a revcounter but it did hold the revs before changing up if I had my right foot in it (as it should). Lifting a touch prompted an upshift though.
If your car has the same mechanical set-up, change up points are adjustable (via a rod that's linked to the throttle pedal).
 
Ok thanks. Where is this rod and is it easy to adjust? Also I think you were right about the venting problem. Every time I release the fuel cap there is as you said a sharp in-rush of air and it does start a bit better but I think there are other problems too. How do I sort a venting problem.
Thanks.
 
The rod IIRC is at the side of the gearbox and will have a linkage from the throttle pedal to it (or vacuum capsule). Rod end is threaded for adjustment. Look for reference alignment marks to adjust to. A workshop manual would be of use here.
If fuel system is old type then venting needs to be sorted soon or fuel starvation and engine damage a possibility. If you can (carefully) mildly pressurise (do not pressurise to point of rupturing the tank!) the fuel tank you may blow the obstruction (in the vent pipe) clear. If not, you'll have to locate the vent pipe and clear it by hand. Better (if possible) to remove it and clear from tank end to avoid dropping the dirt into the tank. Vent pipe may (or may not) be connected to tank at fuel level sensor. Expect it to be on or near the tank's upper surface though.
 
Would the evaporative canister have anything to do with this. I have been reading other peoples posts and they talk about this. They mention lumpy running and a smell of fuel which I sometimes get.
 
The presence of an evaporative canister probably elevates this fuel system to beyond the simple system I imagined it to be. More modern systems are beyond my ken and vacuum build up may be part of their operating regime.
Sorry, but you'll need to seek advice from someone more knowledgeable than me.

edit PS
But yes, if you are getting symptoms as those described by others, then it may well be a problem with evaporative canister.
 
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Im not to sure my self if it has this of not, or even if the fuel system is the same as your w123. I shouldn't think it would be to different though as it is a 1987-88 E reg. But it is a little different to my old 200te which was a 1990 H reg.
But thanks anyway you have been very helpful.
 
My W123 was a saloon (tank behind seat) and carbed - not fuel injected. Cannot remember if it had canister or not - no problems with fuel system (other than worn carb needle). Don't remember vacuum build up though.
 
Just found out it has the older system as it doesn't have a canister and the only fuel tank venting valve works fine. I'm really confused now.
 
It would be helpful if someone running a W123 could say if they get the inrush of air when they release the filler cap.
Where is everyone?....
 
Yeah. Do you think I should start a new thread to see if anyone else has a view?
 
Yeah. Do you think I should start a new thread to see if anyone else has a view?

Yes. On the General Discussion and Off Topics pages and make the title:

Phwoar! Look At The T!ts on Her!.

That might get their attention.....
 
Don't think there are very many W123 here at all...
My 230 didn't have a tacho either but changing into top at 4000 doesn't sound too far fetched?
The shift point is easily moved by adjusting the Bowden attached to the throttle, tightening it makes it shift later (higher revs) iirc?

Nor do I remember whether the tank whooshed either...

Hard starts from worn could be pressure accumulator? Or electrical, coil breaking down maybe?

I would remove the excess transmission fluid if it were me though
 
Mine is a w124 but an old one. It may have some w123 bits on it.

The shift point is easily moved by adjusting the Bowden attached to the throttle, tightening it makes it shift later (higher revs) iirc?

Is this done from the foot well?


Hard starts from worn could be pressure accumulator? Or electrical, coil breaking down maybe?

These have been replaced previously and are all new.

I would remove the excess transmission fluid if it were me though[/QUOTE]

Yes. This is one of my next jobs.
 

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