Starting prblem

[Mercedes 230te]

Sorry. My attempt at the multi-quote didn't work.

 

[balge]

Sorry. My attempt at the multi-quote didn't work.

Sound - at least it's not just me that has trouble with that!

 

[Bellow]

I'd have gone with the accumulator suggestion - but there's a new one on.
During the head gasket change, are all fuel pipes correctly routed - none running too close to hot engine parts or routed high?

 

[Mercedes 230te]

I'd have gone with the accumulator suggestion - but there's a new one on.


Sorry to be thick but when you say accumulator which one do you mean?


During the head gasket change, are all fuel pipes correctly routed - none running too close to hot engine parts or routed high?

When I took the head off it needed alloy welding and skimming so I had to remove the inlet manifold and injectors. I'm sure I put it all back together properly unless there's something I don't know about doing that but I followed the workshop manual.

 

[Bellow]

When I took the head off it needed alloy welding and skimming so I had to remove the inlet manifold and injectors. I'm sure I put it all back together properly unless there's something I don't know about doing that but I followed the workshop manual.

Just a thought in case one of the pipes was unclipped and rubbing up against hot exhaust or the likes.
The mystery continues....

 

[Mercedes 230te]

Sorry to be thick but when you say accumulator which one do you mean?

 

[balge]

Mine is a w124 but an old one. It may have some w123 bits on it.
The shift point is easily moved by adjusting the Bowden attached to the throttle, tightening it makes it shift later (higher revs) iirc?

Is this done from the foot well?

Hard starts from worn could be pressure accumulator? Or electrical, coil breaking down maybe?
These have been replaced previously and are all new.

I would remove the excess transmission fluid if it were me though

In the engine compartment, other end of the cable
Sorry, thought you had a 123 for some reason - I have an '89 W124 230TE in the garage myself...

 

[balge]

Sorry to be thick but when you say accumulator which one do you mean?

Fuel pressure accumulator - might be called 'regulator' or something but it's next to the fuel pumps under the car

I think a 'quick and dirty' way to test them is to turn the ignition on and off three or four times before starting, letting the fuel pumps run-up to re-pressurise each time, if the accumulator is faulty it will not be retaining enough pressure for the injection to work properly. The pumps should run (usually audible) for a few seconds every time the ignition is turned on

 

[Mercedes 230te]

The guy I bought it off has a receipt form Mercedes saying it has new accumulators fitted. Is this to do with the suspension.

Also when I start it from warm/hot (up to temp), I have to tap the throttle so that sounds like fuel starvation to me. If this was the case, wouldn't it struggle from cold too?

 

[balge]

The guy I bought it off has a receipt form Mercedes saying it has new accumulators fitted. Is this to do with the suspension.

Also when I start it from warm/hot (up to temp), I have to tap the throttle so that sounds like fuel starvation to me. If this was the case, wouldn't it struggle from cold too?

I think it runs richer due to cold running system when cold, which would mask it?

New accumulators (they do the damping) for the sls (rear suspension) is good news - that can be a fiddly job, had to do both of my 124s ...

 

[Mercedes 230te]

I think it runs richer due to cold running system when cold, which would mask it?

If it runs richer when cold to help it start, is that the cars way of giving it a bit of throttle?
In which case I suppose it could mask it.

 

[Mercedes 230te]

I think a 'quick and dirty' way to test them is to turn the ignition on and off three or four times before starting, letting the fuel pumps run-up to re-pressurise each time, if the accumulator is faulty it will not be retaining enough pressure for the injection to work properly. The pumps should run (usually audible) for a few seconds every time the ignition is turned on

Yes I can hear the fuel pumps running when I start it.

 

[Bellow]

Sorry to be thick but when you say accumulator which one do you mean?

Fuel pressure accumulator - might be called 'regulator' or something but it's next to the fuel pumps under the car

I think a 'quick and dirty' way to test them is to turn the ignition on and off three or four times before starting, letting the fuel pumps run-up to re-pressurise each time, if the accumulator is faulty it will not be retaining enough pressure for the injection to work properly. The pumps should run (usually audible) for a few seconds every time the ignition is turned on

Fuel pressure accumualtor's function is to maintain pressure in the fuel lines when engine is shut down to prevent the fuel from vapourising due to heat soak which can then cause 'vapour locks' and prevent the fuel from flowing correctly. This primarily to aid hot starting.
Test as per Balge suggests - and break open a fuel line connection to check pressure is stored - or plumb in a temporary pressure gauge.

 

[balge]

Yes I can hear the fuel pumps running when I start it.

Good start, try the on/off thing a few times, turn it off after the pumps stop spinning then back on a few times before trying to start it hot next time

Don't want to teach granny to suck eggs, but I've found it worthwhile checking fuses (get new copper ones), distributor cap (they can develop invisible cracks) and rotor spotlessly clean, OVP relay fuse and a new fuel filter before anything else when dealing with start up and general rough running - just to be sure - they all need regular checking anyway

https://mercedessource.com/problems/fuel-delivery/102-103-104-gas-engine-difficult-or-slow-start

might help

 

[Mercedes 230te]

Well thanks to both of you for your help and suggestions. I now have another list of things to try. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[Bellow]

Well thanks to both of you for your help and suggestions.

You're welcome.

distributor cap (they can develop invisible cracks) and rotor spotlessly clean,

The above - for trapped moisture migrating up the cap with heat.

Remember, you can test if it's lack of fuel or lack of spark by pulling a spark plug when it's being recalcitrant and checking if it's wet (no spark) or dry (no fuel).

 

[Mercedes 230te]

The above - for trapped moisture migrating up the cap with heat.

Remember, you can test if it's lack of fuel or lack of spark by pulling a spark plug when it's being recalcitrant and checking if it's wet (no spark) or dry (no fuel).

Yes. Thanks again.

 

[optimusprime]

Mercedes 230 hope you get your car in to shape. They are realy worth it.Another thing for your rough gear changing. They work through vacuum so a check on your lines might find air leak.

 

[Mercedes 230te]

Fuel pressure accumulator - might be called 'regulator' or something but it's next to the fuel pumps under the car

I think a 'quick and dirty' way to test them is to turn the ignition on and off three or four times before starting, letting the fuel pumps run-up to re-pressurise each time, if the accumulator is faulty it will not be retaining enough pressure for the injection to work properly. The pumps should run (usually audible) for a few seconds every time the ignition is turned on

I tried this today and it did seem to start a bit better but it's far from normal.

 

[Mercedes 230te]

The rod IIRC is at the side of the gearbox and will have a linkage from the throttle pedal to it (or vacuum capsule). Rod end is threaded for adjustment. Look for reference alignment marks to adjust to. A workshop manual would be of use here.

What does IIRC stand for? and is this anything to do with the bowden earlier mentioned by balge?