Valve Block replacement issue

[karozza]

Just replaced the front valve block & now Car has just dived up front & the whole car won't raise!? The rear is still up with front pointing down & whichever button I try to raise, nothing happens!!

WTF??

 

[karozza]

Tried Bleeding the fluid by the usual method of raising/lowering via the button; nothing. Also, tried bleeding at the nipple closest to the front valve block; nothing came out

Might just try the old valve block as that had none of these symptoms

 

[WG M-B]

Have you tried lifting the throttle slightly while someone tops the fluid up?
The pressure sensor in the pump needs to see the correct values!
Don't let the pump run dry ( become noisy ), keep a steady flow of fluid with the throttle raised slightly

 

[Borys]

I just did my valve block today but car raised on its own no problem.
Replacing block will not cause much of fluid loss but we performed rodeo at the end
Is the block brand new?

 

[karozza]

No, block is one I have just re-built.

I have found why the car didn't raise; a pin in one of the rear electrical sockets got bent when fitting the plug!!

 

[karozza]

I just did my valve block today but car raised on its own no problem. Replacing block will not cause much of fluid loss but we performed rodeo at the end Is the block brand new?

Did you buy a new block??

 

[Borys]

Nope, used
I had refurbed one on but for some reason one of the smaller solenoids was letting oil back causing right front to sink over might for about 1cm
Took a risk on eBay - all good so far

 

[karozza]

Nope, used I had refurbed one on but for some reason one of the smaller solenoids was letting oil back causing right front to sink over might for about 1cm Took a risk on eBay - all good so far

May I ask how much you bought the one off EBay?? Also, did you refurb the block??

 

[Borys]

Paid 250 for it and fitted it as it came, did not refurb it

 

[karozza]

QUOTE="Borys"]Paid 250 for it and fitted it as it came, did not refurb it[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info, I can't manage to find them for that money, always more expensive & normally from the U.S. which creates more expensive to get it here.

I was asking about the refurb one you had on; did you refurb it or someone else??

 

[Borys]

Try this item number on eBay
261962781898

My indy did it for me. One of the solenoids was badly seized when removing so we did assume refurb may not cure it 100%. It costed stupid money for seals 10 quid, so we took gamble
But needed to address the issue again

Still worked out better then 1400 quid from MB

 

[karozza]

Try this item number on eBay 261962781898 My indy did it for me. One of the solenoids was badly seized when removing so we did assume refurb may not cure it 100%. It costed stupid money for seals 10 quid, so we took gamble But needed to address the issue again Still worked out better then 1400 quid from MB

Thanks for that. The item has now ended so I have sent him an e-mail.

I have now re-built two blocks which neither seemed to have any issues & the solenoids were not seized. All the same, cleaned & replaced seals & even tested the solenoids but still have drooping front issues, mostly on the passenger side!

Buying it new is ridiculous money as you say. On the other hand, buying a used one from a 12+ year old car only seems reasonable if I can find if for reasonable money as what you bought. Otherwise, buying at Euro 500, which I am finding by the time it gets here seems too much of a gamble. Being 12+ years old makes it a good probability that it could fail at any moment!

So, I'm trying to overcome this challenge & hopefully manage to rebuild successfully. In the meantime, maybe find one for the price you found.

 

[Mr Kripling]

Changing the o-rings on the valve blocks won't have any effect on drooping suspension since the lock valves are metal-to-metal seals. Perhaps some cleaning of the sealing surface might help, though...

 

[karozza]

Changing the o-rings on the valve blocks won't have any effect on drooping suspension since the lock valves are metal-to-metal seals. Perhaps some cleaning of the sealing surface might help, though...

Yes, done that too, cleaned & inspected the metal piston seals. Many have suggested the O rings on the lock valves(small solenoids)to be the culprit. But, in my view, both still seemed to have O rings in good condition. So, I have tried them with the original O rings after cleaning & even tried with new o rings. Still not successful :fail

I'm up for the challenge as I have read many successful attempts with very few failures by some individuals who rebuild them. If I succeed, no-one does them here so this could be an opportunity.

I must be missing something

 

[Borys]

Had exact same issue after replacing seals. Drivers side was dropping.
Big solenoids ate letting oil into the shocks and the small ones are closing to prevent the oil escape. Problem is with one of the return solenoids.
Why I gambled with used one is I thought even if that is faulty I will be able to make a one good one from two. Luckily the used part is working correctly.
The one I bought was from 2001 so yes few years and probably few miles on it. On US forums they say that valve block very rarely fails its the dirt and lack of maintenance causing issues.
Still I know sometimes new part is better but 1400 quid on 6K worth of a car.....I'd look fir cheaper solution.
It is a shame that very little garages will help with this kind of diy.
I guess I'm lucky with my Indy. He told me him self before we spend any serious money lets try to fix it rebuilding the block and lets take it from there

 

[karozza]

Try this item number on eBay
261962781898

MB

Where do you find these as I keep looking & get nowhere near these prices?!

I just missed that one