• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

W111 220SEb valve clearances

SleekLemur

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2022
Messages
36
Location
UK
Car
1962 220SEb Coupé
Looking for advice as to how to adjust valve clearances. Am used to much more simple OHV set-up!

1. I see the control rod needs to be removed. Any issues with this? Am concerned I'll ruin the set up of the fuel injection.

2. The workshop manual talks of a special tool which allows you to measure the torque of the adjustment. Does this basically mean the job can only be done by a specialist?

Many thanks.
 
My 190B has the 4 cylinder version of W111 motor. The valves can be adjusted using an open ended spanner and screw driver.
Adjust when cold.
Have never worked on the fuel injection, mark the rod position should be OK.
Youtube, plenty if info there.
 
There is special valve adjusting tool, part no 111 589 01 61 if you can find one, makes the job easier.
Oh and welcome.
 
Valve clearance adjustment on this engine is fairly easy.

I may have the valve adjustment tool if you are interested....will have to look for it.

Disconnecting the rod will not upset the injection system.
 
Valve clearance adjustment on this engine is fairly easy.

I may have the valve adjustment tool if you are interested....will have to look for it.

Disconnecting the rod will not upset the injection system.
Thanks (as always!), Vijilants.
 
I'm not sure about the M130 but the spanners for the m110 are unique but not impossible to make your own by using a torch to bend the spanner head at an angle. IIRC, you'll have to sacrifice a 14 and a 17.
 
I'm not sure about the M130 but the spanners for the m110 are unique but not impossible to make your own by using a torch to bend the spanner head at an angle. IIRC, you'll have to sacrifice a 14 and a 17.
Pure luck that I happen to have multiple spanners in those sizes, mainly as a result of temporarily losing them and replacement. I am convinced I sold my last car with a stray 10mm socket rolling around somewhere.
 
Hi again. Trying to shift the ball pin head, but it won't budge. Can't see any locknut on the diagram in the manual. What on earth am I doing wrong?
 
Hi again!

Well I'm now proficient, after doing the job three times. The manual states making the adjustment with the lobe of the cam at right angles to the sliding face of the rocker arm, which I dutifully obeyed, but I don't understand why. Surely so long as the spring is not being depressed by the lobe, it's ok?

The main difficulty was that you can measure carefully and think the feeler gauge is just binding in the gap enough, then a very slight movement of the gauge and it suddenly slips around far too easily. Hence three attempts. It's a lot better now but by the sound of it, there's definitely one still too wide.
 
Hi again!

Well I'm now proficient, after doing the job three times. The manual states making the adjustment with the lobe of the cam at right angles to the sliding face of the rocker arm, which I dutifully obeyed, but I don't understand why. Surely so long as the spring is not being depressed by the lobe, it's ok?
The lobe has three aspects. The flanks which lift the valve from its seat and control its return. The base circle which is the valve closed position, where the clearance is. And there are clearance ramps which are between the base circle and the flank - which are there to gently take up the clearance before the much more aggressive flank initiates lift. If the clearance ramp is in contact with the follower the clearance will be unmeasurable despite zero compression of the spring.
 
The lobe has three aspects. The flanks which lift the valve from its seat and control its return. The base circle which is the valve closed position, where the clearance is. And there are clearance ramps which are between the base circle and the flank - which are there to gently take up the clearance before the much more aggressive flank initiates lift. If the clearance ramp is in contact with the follower the clearance will be unmeasurable despite zero compression of the spring.
Thanks, Bellow. Yes, I get that, but surely 50%of the cam is base circle? Why specify at which part of the base circle the clearance must be measured?

I repeat that nevertheless, I measured at the prescribed point. Am a follower, not a leader!
 
Thanks, Bellow. Yes, I get that, but surely 50%of the cam is base circle?
Closer to 60%
Why specify at which part of the base circle the clearance must be measured?
There is no reason (so long as you are far enough away from the clearance ramps, and in the specified position, you'd be some 20 cam angle degrees from them) except perhaps to orientate the lobe to ease access?
I repeat that nevertheless, I measured at the prescribed point. Am a follower, not a leader!
Better that way. Mercedes might just know something we don't!
 
I'm fairly sure that, after three goes at adjusting the clearances I have them right. Top end still rather noisy. Any other ideas about general wear in the top end? What would the usual suspect be?
 
Exhaust valve .20MM .008inch Inlet .10MM .004inch Adjust when cold
The gap is for M111 4 cylinder motor
You may find a WS manual in the net you can download for free.
There is is a free manual for Pontons, many mechanical bits are the same.
 
Thanks very much, but I have a manual and have had three goes at adjusting them and am pretty sure they're all spot on now. What I'm concerned about is that there could be wear somewhere else in the top end. Has anybody any experience of this?
 
Have a look at mbzponton.org
It's an American site, it may have useful mechanical information.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom