W208 CLK 200k/230k - what should I be looking out for when buying one?

[Mistreku]

First, hello everyone, I hope we'll soon get to know each other better. But for now, if anyone is kind enough, could I please get some advice as per what to look for and what should I be aware of, before I buy a CLK W208?

I'm mainly looking into buying a 230k or a 200k. I would prefer the 230, for the extra oomph, however, if I find a 200k in a better condition, I will settle for it, no problem. It will be a manual, I don't trust old automatics, so no need for gearbox related advice. General issues with these cars? Something specific that I need to be aware of before buying one? I imagine they should be pretty reliable, but they are quite old now.

Any input very much appreciated, as I'm completely new to MB.

Thanks in advance,

Gabriel

 

[jotter22]

Hi Gabriel and welcome to the club, dont discount the 320 from what i understand its not a lot less economical than a 230K and i think a well looked after autobox is nothing to be worried about as for the other questions i cant comment but enjoy your search.

Tony.

 

[Ted]

As Tony above says- the 320 is a peach of an engine and very economical.
I would also go for an auto. They are smooth, reliable and much easier to sell on.

Your main enemy will be rust. Check all the wheel arches closely. Also check around the fitting that goes above the number plate light as you can find rust where this bolts up to the metal.

Check the drivers seat bolsters - the stitching can come undone.

Check that the road springs haven't broken.

The 208 is based on the 202. This means that it is a well sorted reliable car. As fat as I remember, there are no real common/major faults on these.

 

[Mistreku]

Cheers for the replies, guys.

I'm afraid the 320 is out of question, where I live (Romania), there's a silly tax on engines above 3000cmc which I'm not too keen to pay. Also insurance is significantly more expensive for those engines. Given the choice, I'd rather get the 430, but that's out of question for the above mentioned reasons. Fuel economy is not necessarily an issue, but the tax is.

Regarding rust and interior, that's pretty easy to spot, no worries there. I was thinking of less obvious issues, things like the compressor, maybe, or sensors.

I previously owned a '93 325i which gave me nightmares with running issues, it never pulled as it was supposed to and never really got to the bottom of it, despite replacing all sensors on it with genuine brand new parts (I think I paid more on sensors and repairs/upgrades that the car was worth) and it still didn't run as it should have run.

Is there any sort of test I can do on the W208, except for driving it and star diagnose?

 

[Howard]

The 208's are generally pretty good.

Weak points are the AC condenser rots through ( dont be fobbed off with 'the AC needs a re-gas' ) , Dash displays on the facelift ones fail , centre display tends to be ok , but the two side ones drop pixels.

The light switch can be iffy , the multifunction stalk can fail ( indicators , main beam etc )

Rust as mentioned before , arches , boot lock , bonnet ( from chips )

Make sure the boot lock works ( as the battery is in the boot , and if it goes flat , you are in trouble if you can't open the boot ) ... trouble with the boot lock is everyone uses the remote release all the time so the lock seizes up. When you need to use it because there is no power , you cant !! lol

ABS/ESP/BAS faults , 9 times out of 10 can be cured with a new brake light switch ( £15 and 1 min to fit ) , worth changing this if you have warning lights on the dash before you even go for a diagnostic as they are so cheap. Tend to last about 80k miles.

Generally though , they are pretty good. The 230k engine can be a little raucous.

Flania on here has tuned his to pretty much the same power as my 430 , speak to him if you want more power ( he has Brabus bits and other stuff on his )

Good luck.

 

[Mistreku]

Cheers mate, very much appreciated! I'll make a list with all the checks you mentioned when I go seeing the car(s). *thumbsup*

Regarding the power mods, I've always been a sucker for them, but now it's too soon to talk about that, I just want a genuine, unmolested 230k as a solid base for later modding.

Thanks again,
Gabriel

 

[flango]

Exactly as Howards post above, don't go for a 200 you will only be disappointed and end up looking for a 230k. Auto boxes dont work well with 200 or 230 either so stay clear, manual is the way to go. In addition to what Howard mentions, check engine mounts if these are worn you can really feel it, gearbox linkage on Manual's, listen carefully to the Kompressor pulley it should be smooth no rasping or noise also when test driving make sure you get the revs well up and listen to the kompressor it should be a little raucous but not rough. Heater motors fail pretty regular and air con condensers are a weak spot. Your choice is a wise one a 230k as a solid base which you can tweak later if you want.

Thats all I can think of at the moment anymore and I'll post back but anything you want to know ask away had mine for nearly 7 years now and done everything to it I possibly can, these are also very easy cars to work on particularly the pre face lift models < MY2000

 

[Howard]

Just thought , check the pollen filter ( above the passenger footwell ) , they are a pain in the **** to get to , so very rarely get changed.

Mine was like a black sponge , sopping wet and can kill the heater motor because of this.

About a tenner from the dealer.

 

[Mistreku]

Will add that to the list, thanks for the tip. How do I check it, though?

 

[flango]

Will add that to the list, thanks for the tip. How do I check it, though?

You need to drop the panel above the passengers knees, 3 screws then you can get to it, dont worry too much if you cant check it just change it when you buy the car you want its a bit fiddly and in a stupid place but easily doable, just check the blower gives a good air flow output

 

[Mistreku]

Will bear that in mind after I buy the car, cheers for the heads up! I'll skip checking it and just replace it for good measure, after I find the car I want.

Off topic, do you have a progress thread on your car, mate? I'd love to check it. Ta

 

[flango]

Will bear that in mind after I buy the car, cheers for the heads up! I'll skip checking it and just replace it for good measure, after I find the car I want.

Off topic, do you have a progress thread on your car, mate? I'd love to check it. Ta

It wasn't done in one go but if you search there are various threads on the mods I've done

 

[John Jones Jr]

My vote is for the 230K also, can't add much to the above but if you want to make life living with the car a fair bit easier change the MAF (use Bosch or Pierberg) and change both the Cam position & Crank sensors (both cheap). Since, you are going for a manual I'd check the gear linkage bushes (cheap) and change the oil - both can really enhance the quality of gear selection.

Since you seem keen on engine modifications, go for an over sized crank pulley and a remap, I suspect you'll be looking at an honest minimum of 30bhp, in the costly turning world these mod's are really value for money.

 

[Deleted member 65149]

I had my facelift 230k for over 10 years and had no problems of note other than the dreaded rust. After 100k miles it was getting a bit noisy when starting (worn teeth on starter motor or flywheel?) but otherwise not even the slightest issue with the engine. It felt like it'd go on forever. The only other issues were the passenger side easy rear entry (moves the seat forward) stopped working at around 50k (I never bothered fixing it!)and a failed light switch at around 105k. All those years and miles with so few problems makes the car fantastic in my book.

I disagree with getting the manual though. The auto box was great and for the vast majority of my driving I had it in "Winter" mode because there was still more than enough power to stay ahead of most traffic! Made the car exceptionally economical too, regularly achieving around 40mpg on long runs at averages around 70mph! I don't like manuals in most MBs because of the foot operated parking brake that can make hill starts a bit difficult.

 

[Mistreku]

Cheers for the input, lads! I did notice a lot of them have/had problems with the MAF, so it will be on the "to-do" list, and also the brake switch, which seems to be a common problem as well.

Regarding the gearbox, I love manuals so it will definitely be a manual. I'm really happy to hear everyone is satisfied with these cars/engines, makes me want one even more!

Now, if I could only find one to fit both my budget and taste! Which proves to be a little tricky, at the moment, but I will find it, eventually.

Will keep you posted!

 

[flango]

Cheers for the input, lads! I did notice a lot of them have/had problems with the MAF, so it will be on the "to-do" list, and also the brake switch, which seems to be a common problem as well.

Regarding the gearbox, I love manuals so it will definitely be a manual. I'm really happy to hear everyone is satisfied with these cars/engines, makes me want one even more!

Now, if I could only find one to fit both my budget and taste! Which proves to be a little tricky, at the moment, but I will find it, eventually.

Will keep you posted!

I've got a good pal lives in Romania, ex rally driver called Rumen Kanev, iives just outside Oradea (apologies if spellings are wrong) also another good friend just over the border in Hungary Zbigniew who is a MB man too if you need help sourcing a car let me know and I'll ask them what they know is for sale. Whats the position for bringing cars into Romania from the surrounding countries? as you might find better in Hungary or Ukraine?

 

[Mistreku]

Well, cheers buddy, definitely appreciated! I might take advantage of your offer if I fail finding a good car here. So far, I found two of them, however, by the time I called, they were sold.

Obviously, I'm trying to keep the cost low and source one here, but failing that, I will definitely take your offer and look abroad, if it's not too much trouble.

Thanks again, next time I'm UK, I'll buy you a pint! I used to live there, for about four years and I kind of miss it now, so you never know! I might return soon.

 

[Mistreku]

Going to see what seems to be a very standard and lovely motor, so fingers crossed it's a good'un! It looks well taken care of in the pics, and the bloke that has sounds like a very decent guy, so I might eventually have found my car! A long-ish drive though, so I'll update you tonight.

 

[jotter22]

Good luck bro! And fingers crossed for you.

Tony.

 

[Mistreku]

Got it, it's not exactly a mint example, but it's a good motor anyway. It's got a few issues, SRS on (been told that spraying the connectors under the seat might do the trick, but I highly doubt it'll be that easy), interior is in good nick but a bit dirty - especially steering wheel and gear knob, there's a key scratch on one of the doors and few other small niggles (ashtray light, CD doesn't read CD's anymore etc).

Overall, very happy with it, drives like a dream, pulls very well for its size and weight, suspension seems to be very tight (no knocks over bumps/pot holes), however I suspect some bushing will have to be replaced on the drivetrain, maybe driveshaft or rear diff, I get a little rattle noise when acceleration from 1000rpm's up to 1500.

I didn't have the chance to inspect the car thoroughly, but drove it for 300 miles and I absolutely love it. Quiet, hugs the road pretty well, pulls nicely and there's no wind or road noise inside, at high speed.

I'm sure we'll see each other more often from now on and here's a couple of pics with the car, not the best ones but better than nothing.