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W211 722.6 valve body help

amazighman

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Apr 22, 2016
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CLK 430
Hi.
I have a W211 E320 CDI 2003 with 5g transmission.

My valve body has an issue ( haven't removed it yet) and I am thinking to get a second hand one low mileage if possible.

Found a few but they are from S class and SL and others.

Question , are they all the same regardless of part number being different?

Can anybody with access to parts catalog have a look to see which part number is mine , I can supply vin.

Regards
 
Whats up with the valve body? unlike a 5g box to give issues, i've refreshed 3 of them now.
 
When going from 1st to 2nd , revs go up accordingly as I accelerate , then drop like 100rpm then pick up again and gear change happens ,
Much noticeable when cold , when warmed up issue is reduced
 
Repair the one you have. Use a Sonnax kit at least that way you know the correct valve body is in there , a used example might be worse than the one you have.

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Repair the one you have. Use a Sonnax kit at least that way you know the correct valve body is in there , a used example might be worse than the one you have.

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Could do , but sonnax sells each individual sleeve damper kit separately , just the TCC damper kit is 40 quid and there are like 8 other kits to buy , uneconomical
Some online search of similar problem people suggested its the TCC damper sleeve that needs replacing.... But who knows
 
Didn't realise the kit was that pricy , see what you mean. Pay £40+ for one kit , do ll that work then find you still have the problem...

Keep us informed on how you get on.
 
Didn't realise the kit was that pricy , see what you mean. Pay £40+ for one kit , do ll that work then find you still have the problem...

Keep us informed on how you get on.
Thats why I thought a decent second hand valve body will be an easy swap and cheaper option.
 
Also take a look at the electrical connector plug where it plugs into the gearbox.

You may find that it is full of ATF which can also cause weirdness and there is also the possibility that ATF will have wicked itself up to the transmission control module.

I have the same year and model car as yours and recently performed the following after feeling weird and slippery gear changes.

  • Replace ATF, trans filter and clean sump pan magnet
  • Replaced conductor plate and replaced the solenoid o-rings
  • Replaced connector socket/bushing
  • Cleaned out connector plug as full of ATF
  • Stripped down valve body and installed new mesh filters and Sonnax overlap sleeve kit (3 sleeves with o-rings) - 68942-05K - Link
  • Inspected TCU in passenger footwell - connectors were full of ATF so cleaned them out
    • ATF did not get to the insides of the TCU but gave it a rinse with contact cleaner anyway
Gearbox works really great now but its not easy to say whether one particular thing was the culprit in this.
 
Also take a look at the electrical connector plug where it plugs into the gearbox.

You may find that it is full of ATF which can also cause weirdness and there is also the possibility that ATF will have wicked itself up to the transmission control module.

I have the same year and model car as yours and recently performed the following after feeling weird and slippery gear changes.

  • Replace ATF, trans filter and clean sump pan magnet
  • Replaced conductor plate and replaced the solenoid o-rings
  • Replaced connector socket/bushing
  • Cleaned out connector plug as full of ATF
  • Stripped down valve body and installed new mesh filters and Sonnax overlap sleeve kit (3 sleeves with o-rings) - 68942-05K - Link
  • Inspected TCU in passenger footwell - connectors were full of ATF so cleaned them out
    • ATF did not get to the insides of the TCU but gave it a rinse with contact cleaner anyway
Gearbox works really great now but its not easy to say whether one particular thing was the culprit in this.
Thanks .
I inspected the pilot bushing for leaks externally and its bone dry , could it still be leaking fluid into the loom from the inside?

That said my problem seems to be more noticeable when cold , when car warms up the slipping seems to be very subtle and you can barely feel it
 
Could this be the TC lockup solenoid on the blink. This mainly happens when engine is cold, and you may get a rough gear change 1st to 2nd . When cold go up a hill, if the engine revs fluctuate that could be another sign.
If it is this then it is a pretty easy fix.

John
 
Thanks .
I inspected the pilot bushing for leaks externally and its bone dry , could it still be leaking fluid into the loom from the inside?

That said my problem seems to be more noticeable when cold , when car warms up the slipping seems to be very subtle and you can barely feel it

My pilot bushing was bone dry externally too but when I released the connector it was full of ATF. Same story with the TCU connector - looked nice and dry externally but when released from TCU, all the pins were full of ATF as well as the sockets.
 
My pilot bushing was bone dry externally too but when I released the connector it was full of ATF. Same story with the TCU connector - looked nice and dry externally but when released from TCU, all the pins were full of ATF as well as the sockets.
Is it the pilot bushing that is faulty or it just bad design and the ATF always gets into the plug connector
 
Is it the pilot bushing that is faulty or it just bad design and the ATF always gets into the plug connector

The pilot bushing has o-rings which fail due to age and heat cycling. Obviously changing the pilot bushing will require ATF draining as a minimum hence best to combine with a filter change.
 
The pilot bushing has o-rings which fail due to age and heat cycling. Obviously changing the pilot bushing will require ATF draining as a minimum hence best to combine with a filter change.
Doubt it but Would oil in connector cause a alight slip between 1st and second?
 
Doubt it but Would oil in connector cause a alight slip between 1st and second?

The thinking is that the ATF will have metallic particles causing a degree of electrical conductivity which can cause weirdness.

Regardless of which route you take, i.e. replace valve body or spruce up your existing one, keep us posted of what you find as you disassemble.
 
The thinking is that the ATF will have metallic particles causing a degree of electrical conductivity which can cause weirdness.

Regardless of which route you take, i.e. replace valve body or spruce up your existing one, keep us posted of what you find as you disassemble.
Will do.
Cheers
 
I stripped mine myself, replaced the conductor plate (very important) and well rebuilt all was back to normal.


I'd simply never trust a second hand "good" unit, too much labour and fluids etc. involved to take the chance.
 

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