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W211 cracked seatbelt plastic

clk320x

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Tesla Model S, Model 3 LR, Model X /// Previous: Jaguar XFR, Mercedes E320 CDI, C32 AMG, CLK 320
Got in the back today to check seatbelts beforehand MOT and had a nasty surprise

The centre seatbelt fastener (the part that it clips into) is cracked :(

See pic:
FEEF5_D60-130_A-41_D6-_A995-9374_E9325995.jpg


Help please :)

Abs
 
Although part of the MOT I am not sure the the plastic surround forms part of the mechanism. I would give it a good tug and see if it works as intended.
 
Gorilla tape and self-adhesive velcro (loop) or felt around it - will look like a standard anti-squeak measure.
As a temporary solution, of course - until you get a replacement (if not possible before the MOT).
 
Mine has done exactly this as well.

Even worse it came to my attention when the seatbelt got stuck with my old Mum in situ.

It sort of clicked back together when I eventually released her.
 
Mine has done exactly this as well.

Even worse it came to my attention when the seatbelt got stuck with my old Mum in situ.

It sort of clicked back together when I eventually released her.

Oh no, that’s not good! Thank god you managed to release it without too much hassle.

Was it ever a problem come MOT? The belt still functions as intended
 
Last edited:
Oh no, that’s not good! Thank god you managed to release it without too much hassle.

Was it ever a problem come MOT? The belt still functions as intended
Actually, the Mother is a bit claustrophobic and got out double quick!

I couldn't pull the belt out so put it through an MOT via my mechanic thinking that he would sort it first but it came back still stuck with a pass cert.

It's free now though.
 
£61 + VAT from Mercedes, which is what I’m eering towards as would prefer not to mess around with used parts when it comes to seatbelts.

Very wise

If the Ebay parts had been subject to an accident then who knows if they would work as intended in future if subjected to another impact loading?
 
Very wise

If the Ebay parts had been subject to an accident then who knows if they would work as intended in future if subjected to another impact loading/

100% agree,

8/10 cars that are being broken for parts seem to be crashed :D I just don’t think it’s a risk worth taking for the sake of £40 saved in this case :)

I’m sure I can get it slightly cheaper from MB Edinburgh so I’ve emailed them for a price & will update the thread accordingly.
 
100% agree,

8/10 cars that are being broken for parts seem to be crashed :D I just don’t think it’s a risk worth taking for the sake of £40 saved in this case :)

I’m sure I can get it slightly cheaper from MB Edinburgh so I’ve emailed them for a price & will update the thread accordingly.

Never used MB Edinburgh, I have used MB Newcastle and they were very good on price and delivery via their eBay store but it seems that they only discount on parts in stock and not those that need to be ordered.
 
Never used MB Edinburgh, I have used MB Newcastle and they were very good on price and delivery via their eBay store but it seems that they only discount on parts in stock and not those that need to be ordered.

I contact Steve via email (Edinburgh) and he organises delivery via DPD next day. I’ve ordered lots of stuff including special order items from Germany and he’s always been cheaper than my local dealer. Pay via PayPal.

I’ll pm you his email address, if you ever need. Tell him Abs sent you ;)
 
Do you think Steve could order me a new body shell?:D:D:D:D:D

I had the corrosion on the driver and passenger door bottoms and rear arches sorted a few years ago but it is showing up again. It is a pity because even at 170,000 miles the car is mechanically sound, performs very well (as you know with the 3.2) ,has smooth gear changes etc.

I only use it for my commute to work which is 3 times a week, (sometimes less as in good weather I take the MX5) and it costs me nothing in depreciation now as it is almost worthless.

Having covered around 100,000 in it since acquiring it I am loath to get rid easily but it will probably go for scrap depending on the next MOT.
 
Do you think Steve could order me a new body shell?:D:D:D:D:D

I had the corrosion on the driver and passenger door bottoms and rear arches sorted a few years ago but it is showing up again. It is a pity because even at 170,000 miles the car is mechanically sound, performs very well (as you know with the 3.2) ,has smooth gear changes etc.

I only use it for my commute to work which is 3 times a week,( sometimes less as in good weather I take the MX5) and it costs me nothing in depreciation now as it is almost worthless.

Having covered around 100,000 in it since acquiring it I am loath to get rid easily but it will probably go for scrap depending on the next MOT.

Haha I think the shipping would be a bit expensive! :oops::D

have you got any pics of the rust? Is it a 203?

Yeh the 3.2 M112 is lovely, a really excellent engine IMO. I may be biased though? lol

If the corrosion isn’t structural it shouldn’t affect the MOT should it? If the mechanicals are strong and you like the car I’d go to a bodyshop and get a quote. :)

I’ve had the CLK sorted and knock on wood it hasn’t come back even after over a year and a half and a lot of salt on the roads. Maybe the bodyshop you used for the doors didn’t make sure all the rot was removed before painting so it came back?
 
Haha I think the shipping would I be a bit expensive! :oops::D

have you got any pics of the rust? Is it a 203?

Yeh the 3.2 M112 is lovely, a really excellent engine IMO. I may be biased though? lol

If the corrosion isn’t structural it shouldn’t affect the MOT should it? If the mechanicals are strong and you like the car I’d go to a bodyshop and get a quote. :)

I do not think any of the rust is structural, just annoying. I have been under the car and the main / structural parts are in good order

I had a body.shop quote £1000 to correct the rust, spray both doors, wings, rear arches, boot lid and bonnet (stone chipped) but frankly the car is not worth it and it seems more sensible to invest the money in something else. I have had the rear brake pipes replaced three years ago (£600), Alternator (£550 as one mounting bolt stripped in the alloy engine cover and had to be drilled out and a thread insert put in) but there comes a time ...............................
 
I do not think any of the rust is structural, just annoying. I have been under the car and the main / structural parts are in good order

I had a body.shop quote £1000 to correct the rust, spray both doors, wings, rear arches, boot lid and bonnet (stone chipped) but frankly the car is not worth it and it seems more sensible to invest the money in something else. I have had the rear brake pipes replaced three years ago (£600), Alternator (£550 as one mounting bolt stripped in the alloy engine cover and had to be drilled out and a thread insert put in) but there comes a time ...............................

I think just drive it till it falls apart, get as much use out of it as you can before scrapping :)
 
100% agree,

8/10 cars that are being broken for parts seem to be crashed :D I just don’t think it’s a risk worth taking for the sake of £40 saved in this case :)

I’m sure I can get it slightly cheaper from MB Edinburgh so I’ve emailed them for a price & will update the thread accordingly.

Its only a plastic cover and nothing to do with the internals, as already mentioned just clip it back into place.

I wouldnt bother with new parts myself.
 
Its only a plastic cover and nothing to do with the internals, as already mentioned just clip it back into place.

I wouldnt bother with new parts myself.

I can’t get the plastic cover separately :( it won’t clip together it’s cracked and split it fell apart in my hand.
 

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