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W211 E320 Cdi Limp Mode

tcb180

Active Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
158
Location
gwent
Car
Mercedes E320 Auto
Just drove home from work and from start off no power so had to stay in lower gears to get home. No kick down. No warning lights on dash and all gears selectable.

Got on the drive in neutral foot to the floor. No turbo and max 3000 rpm.
Switched her off then straight back on again and full power reinstated.

Any ideas? Looking towards Maf sensor and examine turbo pipe for splits etc.

Any way of checking the sensor with a basic mutimeter?
 
Last edited:
The only time my 2007 V6 cdi e class went into limp mode the generic code reader reckoned it was oxygen sensors. Turned out to be the stepper motor.


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Exhaust back pressure sensor is a known problem. You need a scanner to bring up live data readings. Anything else is guessing and pretty pointless. If a maf fails the ecu takes over using default values . Id look elsewhere for answers. Also think the om642 has a maf in each bank.
 
Same thing did to me. Is your car sometimes jerking when you put down the throttle? I think it could be the turbo actuator is the known fault on this motor. Mine replaced one month ago with the same symptoms you have.


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Had same issue on my 2007 e320, codes pointed to turbo actuator, stripped it of and opened it up to find the common fault of the 2 solder connections although looked perfect where in fact open circuit. Got neighbours son to resolder joints and replaced all good since.
 
Had same issue on my 2007 e320, codes pointed to turbo actuator, stripped it of and opened it up to find the common fault of the 2 solder connections although looked perfect where in fact open circuit. Got neighbours son to resolder joints and replaced all good since.
 
On Thursday I took her out and no issues at all? Ran her for a few miles. Got home and did the swirl flap delete and took off the small metal front egr pipe which was about a third restricted. Starts up from cold quicker and is running far smoother than what it was.

Thinking of egr delete next. A lot of crud gets in that system.

Thanks guys. Will look at turbo actuator if I get more problems.

Just to reitterate a post I've seen. That little egr pipe needs to become a service item for you guys running the V6 diesels.
 
Can be a number of things, turbo actuator, EGR valve, MAF etc. Unfortunately all guess work without having a diagnostic session. Even a cheap code reader may help point you in the right direction otherwise you could end u throwing parts at it.
 
On mine new actuator with turbo EGR is shutted off via ECU and swirl flaps fooled via capacitor. Smoother running of motor and the gearbox and better acceleration and fuel consumption hope next 300k km only with regular oil change [emoji16]


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On Thursday I took her out and no issues at all? Ran her for a few miles. Got home and did the swirl flap delete and took off the small metal front egr pipe which was about a third restricted. Starts up from cold quicker and is running far smoother than what it was.

Thinking of egr delete next. A lot of crud gets in that system.

Thanks guys. Will look at turbo actuator if I get more problems.

Just to reitterate a post I've seen. That little egr pipe needs to become a service item for you guys running the V6 diesels.
I know it's an old thread but did you get it fixed? My E280 has started doing the same thing.. no power or kick down but if you restart it goes away then comes back at random sometime straight away other times not for days
 
read the codes. SDS preferred...
 
read the codes. SDS preferred...
Hi Mersum1es

Had it on a star machine at my local indie on Monday. Only code was for a glow plug. They check the EGR valve operation and all was fine they also removed and cleaned the EGR pipe at the front on the engine it wasn't choked but was about 1/3 blocked. This seemed to have cured the problem until this afternoon. Now it's back. Happened while in traffic so I switched off and restarted seemed ok for a few miles then came back again. I stopped at a fuel station and filled up (tank had been at 1/4) and so far the problem hasn't come back again but only driven 10 miles since fill up. Could it be something to do with the lower fuel level? Had a similar problem with a 5 series BMW that used to die at 1/4 tank needed a new lift pump in the tank..
 
Hi Mersum1es

Had it on a star machine at my local indie on Monday. Only code was for a glow plug. They check the EGR valve operation and all was fine they also removed and cleaned the EGR pipe at the front on the engine it wasn't choked but was about 1/3 blocked. This seemed to have cured the problem until this afternoon. Now it's back. Happened while in traffic so I switched off and restarted seemed ok for a few miles then came back again. I stopped at a fuel station and filled up (tank had been at 1/4) and so far the problem hasn't come back again but only driven 10 miles since fill up. Could it be something to do with the lower fuel level? Had a similar problem with a 5 series BMW that used to die at 1/4 tank needed a new lift pump in the tank..
I would have thought that if the car has been at an MB Independent specialist then they would be in the best position to resolve this ?? Did they have other thoughts ?
 
I would have thought that if the car has been at an MB Independent specialist then they would be in the best position to resolve this ?? Did they have other thoughts ?
Hi W1ghty,

Just looking for ideas, the garage were kind enough to fit me in to do the initial checks and clean the EGR pipe but no codes other than the glow plugs so looking for ideas before we go replacing things to try and fix it..
 
As free jobs if you are handy , you could ,

Clean the gunk out of the inside of the turbo actuator

Spray clean with carb cleaner inside the exhaust back pressure sensor , there is a small hole that blocks .

Try fitting a 4.7k resistor in the swirl flap/inlet port motor , this is because the turbo orange seal drips oil sludge onto the ilps motor and the swirl flaps stick inside the inlet manifolds with the gunk that was inside the egr pipe

As we are into the realm of guessing these are a cost of £1 for the resistor and some pennies for the spray .
Is your garage an MB only specialist?.
 
Hi W1ghty

I'll add those to my list of jobs.. The infamous orange seal has been changed and the flaps were checked at the same time so I'm fairly sure they're still ok.

I use AA Merctec in Hoddesdon they are a specialist Merc indie but also work on other makes as well. Always very helpful although usually pretty busy, I'm sure the 2 are linked..

Done a few miles in the car again today and no issue so I'll be interested to see what happens when I get near the 1/4 tank again. My old BMW used to just die when ever you got below a 1/4 the whole dash lit up and the engine died.. not great on the M25. Top it up with fuel and off it went again. That was the in tank pump which made me think this could be a similar thing all be it not as serious..

I'm off to France on Tuesday so no time to fix anything before I go so fingers crossed nothing dies completely before I get back...
 
Hi W1ghty

I'll add those to my list of jobs.. The infamous orange seal has been changed and the flaps were checked at the same time so I'm fairly sure they're still ok.

I use AA Merctec in Hoddesdon they are a specialist Merc indie but also work on other makes as well. Always very helpful although usually pretty busy, I'm sure the 2 are linked..

Done a few miles in the car again today and no issue so I'll be interested to see what happens when I get near the 1/4 tank again. My old BMW used to just die when ever you got below a 1/4 the whole dash lit up and the engine died.. not great on the M25. Top it up with fuel and off it went again. That was the in tank pump which made me think this could be a similar thing all be it not as serious..

I'm off to France on Tuesday so no time to fix anything before I go so fingers crossed nothing dies completely before I get back...
You have time to order a 4.7k ohm resistor for the glove box just in case . Every old W211 one should have one handy :)
 
Limp mode always leave a code (except some rare cases with MAF). Is car remapped? Or then it is not at limp mode but some sensor(s) reading prevent it using power at all, but still all in range so inplausibility fault is not triggered.
 

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