W211, OM642, E320 CDI Turbo Actuator

[Sebs007]

Hi everyone!

I’ve recently noticed my car is feeling sluggish and producing smoke. After doing some checks, I found that the turbo actuator isn’t moving at all. I tested it both with the engine running and revving, as well as with the engine off and then switching ignition to position 2, but there’s no movement. I unclipped the control arm to check if the turbo veins were stuck, but they move freely.

The actuator looks fairly new and has a G-88 label on it. After some research, I realised it's likely an aftermarket part from Amazon, not the original OEM Garett/Hella actuator. I took it off the car to confirm, and it’s indeed not the original part.

I’ve read that this issue might be linked to the swirl flap motor failing. Apparently, due to its location, it can get covered in oil from the turbo which might lead to electrical problems. I’ve also seen posts suggesting that the turbo actuator and swirl flap motor are on the same circuit, causing Fuse 44 in the engine bay to blow. I checked the fuse, but it seems fine, so I’m not sure if that’s relevant in my case.

I’m wondering what else could cause the turbo actuator to stop working, aside from the fact that it’s a cheap replacement? If it turns out to be a quality issue, does anyone know where I can get the OEM part? Or maybe someone has a spare in good working order that I could buy? I contacted my local dealer, but they said I’d need to buy the entire turbo unit with the actuator also they couldn’t give me the part number for just the actuator.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[boxer 01]

Mercedes E-Class W211 320CDI Electronic Turbo Actuator 730314 G-88 6NW009228 | eBay

Can Be Found on the Aluminium Side of the Actuator. You Will Probably Find It Sticks and Does Not Move the Full Range or Freely, Normally the Vanes Will Stick or Go Tight at Either End, Especially When Hot.

www.ebay.co.uk

You have to send yours back, so I would probably ask first as yours is not an original.

 

[Troutman]

It might be worth opening it up to see if something obvious has made it stop working. It's just a few clips, I did mine yesterday and it was fine but I applied a smear of vaseline to the gears ad now it's working perfect.

My car belched out black smoke that day after I bought it and it was the fuel pressure sensor, very cheap and very easy in fact most stuff on the V6 is pretty easy to do (apart from the oil cooler seals)

 

[Sebs007]

I’ve opened it up briefly (didn’t had much time left to check it properly). It looks fairy new, see pict. When I get a bit more time I’ll do a motor test to see if it’s operational, I believe I can only test the circuit board when it’s back on the car using actuation test through the scanner?

 

[Troutman]

It looks different to mine inside (gears are similar) but the + and - for the motor seem to be made via those two plugs in the middle and it looks like they just touch the actual motor wires , does that sound correct.?
If so out of curiosity you could put 12v briefly on the motor wires as they're exposed.

 

[W1ghty]

Hi everyone!

I’ve recently noticed my car is feeling sluggish and producing smoke. After doing some checks, I found that the turbo actuator isn’t moving at all. I tested it both with the engine running and revving, as well as with the engine off and then switching ignition to position 2, but there’s no movement. I unclipped the control arm to check if the turbo veins were stuck, but they move freely.

The actuator looks fairly new and has a G-88 label on it. After some research, I realised it's likely an aftermarket part from Amazon, not the original OEM Garett/Hella actuator. I took it off the car to confirm, and it’s indeed not the original part.

I’ve read that this issue might be linked to the swirl flap motor failing. Apparently, due to its location, it can get covered in oil from the turbo which might lead to electrical problems. I’ve also seen posts suggesting that the turbo actuator and swirl flap motor are on the same circuit, causing Fuse 44 in the engine bay to blow. I checked the fuse, but it seems fine, so I’m not sure if that’s relevant in my case.

I’m wondering what else could cause the turbo actuator to stop working, aside from the fact that it’s a cheap replacement? If it turns out to be a quality issue, does anyone know where I can get the OEM part? Or maybe someone has a spare in good working order that I could buy? I contacted my local dealer, but they said I’d need to buy the entire turbo unit with the actuator also they couldn’t give me the part number for just the actuator.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Yep , fuse F44 covers the actuator, inlet port motor , exhaust back pressure sensor and egr . A fault in one can be hard to pin down.
Put a 4.k ohm resistor into the middle two terminals of the power supply to the inlet port motor (swirl flaps) ..cost £1
Spray clean the hole on the underside of the ebps , next to the turbo ..watch the chrome washer underneath it . 24mm deep socket .
Put some small amount of high temp grease on the worm gear inside the actuator .
Change F44 anyway .
If that doesn’t work , the ebps is £60 new , they don’t last forever .
Someone like Essex turbos does recon actuators , you don’t need a new turbo with it unless talking to a main dealer .
Try a can of spray turbo cleaner into the front of the turbo when the car is running .

 

[johnsco]

Someone like Essex turbos does recon actuators , you don’t need a new turbo with it unless talking to a main dealer .

I highly recommend Essex Turbos ...
A very knowledgeable and helpful company to deal with.

 

[Sebs007]

Hi fellas!

Just wanted to report back on my experience. So, I ended up reaching out to a guy from Turbo Vanes, found him online - busy chap based in Birmingham who deals with actuators on an exchange basis. Bit of a snag, though mine was a cheap Chinese aftermarket part, so obviously, he wasn’t interested in taking that one.

But then I remembered I had an old actuator lying around from a Ford Transit I worked on ages ago (it had a blown turbo), and lucky me it was a genuine Hella! Quick chat later, and he agreed to swap it for the one I actually need marked EAG-219. Got it for next day delivery, and yesterday I finally got it installed. What a difference with a fully working turbo makes!

So, all in all, a solid experience so far!

 

[W1ghty]

Hi fellas!

Just wanted to report back on my experience. So, I ended up reaching out to a guy from Turbo Vanes, found him online - busy chap based in Birmingham who deals with actuators on an exchange basis. Bit of a snag, though mine was a cheap Chinese aftermarket part, so obviously, he wasn’t interested in taking that one.

But then I remembered I had an old actuator lying around from a Ford Transit I worked on ages ago (it had a blown turbo), and lucky me it was a genuine Hella! Quick chat later, and he agreed to swap it for the one I actually need marked EAG-219. Got it for next day delivery, and yesterday I finally got it installed. What a difference with a fully working turbo makes!

So, all in all, a solid experience so far!

How much was it buddy , I might get my actuator freshened up as well .
Good fix by the way !

 

[Sebs007]

How much was it buddy , I might get my actuator freshened up as well .
Good fix by the way !

I've paid £132 plus my exchange unit, which seems to be the standard price for most of the actuators he stocks. Just a heads up: he also charges a £100 deposit on your old unit, which you get back once he receives it. In your case, I don’t think that deposit would matter much as you’d be sending him the part anyway

 

[W1ghty]

I've paid £132 plus my exchange unit, which seems to be the standard price for most of the actuators he stocks. Just a heads up: he also charges a £100 deposit on your old unit, which you get back once he receives it. In your case, I don’t think that deposit would matter much as you’d be sending him the part anyway

Cheers buddy .

 

[DSM10000]

Cheers buddy .

I have used them for my E320 CDi

Fast delivery and cured the problem

 

[Sebs007]

I’m back with the same issue as before...

After changing the turbo actuator that has worked for mere a week I’m now stumbled on what is going on.

My car has the same symptoms as before, no boost… but I cant believe that the part has failed after just a week of using it?! Using my simple cheap scanner I’m reading the code “P0243 Turbocharger / Supercharger Wastegate Solenoid A” error code. Every time I try to clear the code it doesn’t seem to let me, code stays. The only difference I noticed was that when the engine is cold I get some of the boost which means that the actuator seems to work for a bit, short bit.

I guess its time to invest in better scanner but before I decide which one to sell, left or right kidney, does anyone in live in the areas of Hampshire that can help out?

 

[boxer 01]

I’m back with the same issue as before...

After changing the turbo actuator that has worked for mere a week I’m now stumbled on what is going on.

My car has the same symptoms as before, no boost… but I cant believe that the part has failed after just a week of using it?! Using my simple cheap scanner I’m reading the code “P0243 Turbocharger / Supercharger Wastegate Solenoid A” error code. Every time I try to clear the code it doesn’t seem to let me, code stays. The only difference I noticed was that when the engine is cold I get some of the boost which means that the actuator seems to work for a bit, short bit.

I guess its time to invest in better scanner but before I decide which one to sell, left or right kidney, does anyone in live in the areas of Hampshire that can help out?

I would get in touch with turbo vanes, if it is the actuator surely there is some warranty on the item. Unless it's not the turbo actuator and maybe the vanes are snagging/sticking.

 

[W1ghty]

I’m back with the same issue as before...

After changing the turbo actuator that has worked for mere a week I’m now stumbled on what is going on.

My car has the same symptoms as before, no boost… but I cant believe that the part has failed after just a week of using it?! Using my simple cheap scanner I’m reading the code “P0243 Turbocharger / Supercharger Wastegate Solenoid A” error code. Every time I try to clear the code it doesn’t seem to let me, code stays. The only difference I noticed was that when the engine is cold I get some of the boost which means that the actuator seems to work for a bit, short bit.

I guess its time to invest in better scanner but before I decide which one to sell, left or right kidney, does anyone in live in the areas of Hampshire that can help out?

Might be worth spraying a can of turbo cleaner into the turbo , if this gets things working again then it's probably not the actuator but the vanes sticking inside the turbo .
I try and do this every year or so as preventative maintenance. Not sure if it does any good but I feel better afterwards .

 

[BlackC55]

I’m back with the same issue as before...

After changing the turbo actuator that has worked for mere a week I’m now stumbled on what is going on.

My car has the same symptoms as before, no boost… but I cant believe that the part has failed after just a week of using it?! Using my simple cheap scanner I’m reading the code “P0243 Turbocharger / Supercharger Wastegate Solenoid A” error code. Every time I try to clear the code it doesn’t seem to let me, code stays. The only difference I noticed was that when the engine is cold I get some of the boost which means that the actuator seems to work for a bit, short bit.

I guess its time to invest in better scanner but before I decide which one to sell, left or right kidney, does anyone in live in the areas of Hampshire that can help out?

Replacing actuators rarely work on this turbo. When they are built they are matched up.

New turbo is your best bet. Its a few quid but will work 1st time.

The reason I know this is because I have been here many times.

 

[ALFAitalia]

Id like to know how they are matched....they all move in the same way...(up and down)....as do the vanes in the turbo????? As far as I can see there is no method of adjustment to match anything to anything anyway. Just interested and I appreciate you will be far more knowledgeable about theses things than me.

Edit....from the googleathon net thing........

"You need to match the numbers off your ordinal actuator, once removed on the side it should start with a letter then a series of numbers..... this is programmed to work with your ecu. When replacing the actuator only it has to have the same numbers on it otherwise the turbo vanes will open to early or too late and log a boost/actuator fault in the ecu or not boost at all and sit in limp mode."

 

[mersum1es]

Also is turbo is disassembled fully, relative position of housings will result how controller is located to vane position. If it can 'hit the wall', there will be lotsa problems.

But I believe if you use turbo service company, they will know what/how to do it, and they can bench test refurb turbo.