• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

W212 brake replacement - calliper specific help needed

BlueRubber

New Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2019
Messages
20
Location
Reading, Berkshire
Car
e350
Hi all,

I've watched a load of videos on how to replace front pads and discs but all the front brake callipers look totally different to my car.
The car is a 2013 S212 E350 bluetec ( face lift ).

Could someone please send me a link to a good youtube video on how to replace the brakes with this style of calliper?

Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • 20231111_130702.jpg
    20231111_130702.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 15
  • 20231111_130656.jpg
    20231111_130656.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 13
I would suggest that if yuu are unsure as to the correct method then it would be better to let a local garage fit them.

Do you have a torque wrench for correctly tightening the bolts and wheels?
 
Yes I have a torque wrench and have worked on brakes that look similar on motorbikes.
But I always try and watch videos of people doing work before I attempt it as you can often get some very useful tips.
In this case I also need the bolt torq values.
 
Let me reactivate this break servicing thread.
I have done a bit of break maintenance and wheel check. All went well except for the car came up with all sorts of lights: no ABS, no traction control, no flat tyre warning and some more. I thought the wheel sensors got out of sync. It took me a good 2-3 start drive stop lock cycles to make it go away.
What is the advice to avoid it next time?
I rotated the wheels when it was jacked up, also the ignition was off but the key was in. I am reading that all w/s212 have the SBC break feature which needs to be deactivated (complicated 5-6 step routine) and similarly complicated to turn it back on. (Unless you have STAR of course.)
Any idea?
 
Let me reactivate this break servicing thread.
I have done a bit of break maintenance and wheel check. All went well except for the car came up with all sorts of lights: no ABS, no traction control, no flat tyre warning and some more. I thought the wheel sensors got out of sync. It took me a good 2-3 start drive stop lock cycles to make it go away.
What is the advice to avoid it next time?
I rotated the wheels when it was jacked up, also the ignition was off but the key was in. I am reading that all w/s212 have the SBC break feature which needs to be deactivated (complicated 5-6 step routine) and similarly complicated to turn it back on. (Unless you have STAR of course.)
Any idea?
W212 do not have SBC Brakes.

Mercedes stopped using them on W211 facelift cars. It is true that rotating individual wheels with the ignition on can trigger ABS and other related faults but they usually clear after driving.
 
Hi all,

I've watched a load of videos on how to replace front pads and discs but all the front brake callipers look totally different to my car.
The car is a 2013 S212 E350 bluetec ( face lift ).

Could someone please send me a link to a good youtube video on how to replace the brakes with this style of calliper?

Thanks!
I have changed pads 3 times and discs twice with that setup on my W212. The pads are very easy - you need to push the calipers pistons back by using leverage on the inner sides of the pads. Once the pistons are back knock out the slide pins using a suitable punch tool. These can be stuck and will take some hammering. Clean the pins before reusing. The pads just pull out. Give everything a good scrub and clean and insert new pads, replace pins. Job done. You may want to use a bit of brake lube on the pins where the pads come into contact.
For disc replacement the hardest part will be cracking the caliper carrier bolts - you will need a long bar for leverage. One the caliper is removed the disc should come off with a few taps once the retaining screw is removed. Clean up everything and refit new discs. I never torqued the carrier bolts up just did everything tight but used thread lock on the end of the bolts. The wheels were torqued - iirc @ 130nm
 
Talking about breaks:
Has anyone tried those non-rusting, surface treated discs?
The Mercedes discs (made by ATE I think) has a super thin zinc coating which I do not think to last very long. Have you seen have you tried any more durable? Perhaps the Brembo’s “UV coated” one? Or??

My discs are 6 years old and really very rusty. (I only drive long motorway trips so the break usage is minimal. Same pads for 6+ years. The touching surfaces are OK, thickness is OK, but the edges are rusting, peeling, so much that I have to replace them.)
 
Just to bring another point about the pins on these. Yes, they can be tight. Sometimes very tight. You might find they are so tight that the pin buckles in the middle and you panic. Don’t panic. Use a Dremel or similar tool to cut away the middle of the pin and you can then use a bigger punch directly on the stuck inner bits and they’ll come straight out. New pins can be bought from Mercedes or most decent motor factors. Put some anti-seize on the spring olive before you fit them and next time will be a breeze
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom