Dear All,
I have bee living with a painful issue with my car for 3 years now, and managed to make some observations which might help some expert to provide a guess on what could be causing this? In a nutshell, sometimes the car doesn't start, doesn't even crank when turning to key completely to the right.
Car: S350 Bluetech, 2011 (W221)
Sidenote: when the car turns on ok (and it always does eventually, but sometimes after an hour, sometimes after second try), all errors disappear, and drives smoothly as it should.
Symptoms:
-Ignition key turned to second position (just before turning the engine on), turning further wouldn't turn the engine on, not even a crank comes out.
-On the dash 2 errors come up: Run flat inoperative, ESP Inoperative
-The engine cooler temperature doesnt move at all on the dash (even if the car has been running before and I am 100% sure it would be over 60-80C
-The little coil sign (pre-ignition glow thingy) doesn't show up at all on the dash, even if the engine is completely cold
-I can't hear the hissing sound of the compressor (for air suspension) so pretty sure that doesn't turn on either
=Reading errors out, 2 peding one shows up: P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1, P00AD Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1
I also figured that it has to do something with the battery voltage, as:
- It always happens during winter and cold periods. I don't think I have seen it in summer
- It very rarely occurs after the car has been previously running and warm. Note that voltage is always higher after an extended run (battery more charged)
- When my battery was depleted (below 12V), it took me an hour to start the car, turning the key back and forth, praying, etc. When I changed to a fully charged battery, the error may come up, but I can turn the engine on after trying for 2-3 times
- I once also tried to jack the car up from a running car after 20 minutes of failure to start it on its own, the car instantly started, error was not showing up at all
Now the issue is that even with a brand new, fully charged 95Ah AGM battery, I do get this error and intermittent non-start issue.
Also to note:
-When the key is turned to position 2, a lot of consumers are turned on. Air suspension compressor would start, pre-ignition glow, aircon air, etc. I can see that the battery at this point (even before trying to crank the engine on) drops about 0.5volts. Fully charge brand new battery installed shows only 12.5V, and once I turn the key twice, that 12.5 drops to 12.0
-It has happened a few times that I turn key to position 2, I do see the glow plug show up for a half sec/air suspension starting to hiss, than suddenlly these cut off, the error message appears on the dash and I can be sure that I won't be able to turn the car on at that point.
So could this be a short-circuit or something like that caused by something that's turned on at ignition position 2? And voltage drops, some module malfunctions and hence errors show up/car doesnt start? What is really weird that the car eventually always turns on - just sometimes may take an hour, or locking doors after an unsuccesful try and retrying it 20 minutes later.
Really appreciate even guesses.
I have bee living with a painful issue with my car for 3 years now, and managed to make some observations which might help some expert to provide a guess on what could be causing this? In a nutshell, sometimes the car doesn't start, doesn't even crank when turning to key completely to the right.
Car: S350 Bluetech, 2011 (W221)
Sidenote: when the car turns on ok (and it always does eventually, but sometimes after an hour, sometimes after second try), all errors disappear, and drives smoothly as it should.
Symptoms:
-Ignition key turned to second position (just before turning the engine on), turning further wouldn't turn the engine on, not even a crank comes out.
-On the dash 2 errors come up: Run flat inoperative, ESP Inoperative
-The engine cooler temperature doesnt move at all on the dash (even if the car has been running before and I am 100% sure it would be over 60-80C
-The little coil sign (pre-ignition glow thingy) doesn't show up at all on the dash, even if the engine is completely cold
-I can't hear the hissing sound of the compressor (for air suspension) so pretty sure that doesn't turn on either
=Reading errors out, 2 peding one shows up: P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1, P00AD Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1
I also figured that it has to do something with the battery voltage, as:
- It always happens during winter and cold periods. I don't think I have seen it in summer
- It very rarely occurs after the car has been previously running and warm. Note that voltage is always higher after an extended run (battery more charged)
- When my battery was depleted (below 12V), it took me an hour to start the car, turning the key back and forth, praying, etc. When I changed to a fully charged battery, the error may come up, but I can turn the engine on after trying for 2-3 times
- I once also tried to jack the car up from a running car after 20 minutes of failure to start it on its own, the car instantly started, error was not showing up at all
Now the issue is that even with a brand new, fully charged 95Ah AGM battery, I do get this error and intermittent non-start issue.
Also to note:
-When the key is turned to position 2, a lot of consumers are turned on. Air suspension compressor would start, pre-ignition glow, aircon air, etc. I can see that the battery at this point (even before trying to crank the engine on) drops about 0.5volts. Fully charge brand new battery installed shows only 12.5V, and once I turn the key twice, that 12.5 drops to 12.0
-It has happened a few times that I turn key to position 2, I do see the glow plug show up for a half sec/air suspension starting to hiss, than suddenlly these cut off, the error message appears on the dash and I can be sure that I won't be able to turn the car on at that point.
So could this be a short-circuit or something like that caused by something that's turned on at ignition position 2? And voltage drops, some module malfunctions and hence errors show up/car doesnt start? What is really weird that the car eventually always turns on - just sometimes may take an hour, or locking doors after an unsuccesful try and retrying it 20 minutes later.
Really appreciate even guesses.
