waxoyl for beginners

[Ade B]

I've just squirted the stuff on the jacking points (which were all in good fettle) as a precaution against rot. I've got most of a can left - where else would be a good place to coat which is easy to get to..

One thought is to pop the wheels off and coat the newish springs?

The underside is in pretty good nick as most of the original protection is still there..


Ade

 

[Dieselman]

Everywhere you can get to. Inside the chassis rails, sills, inner and outer wings, spring supports, door skins, rear suspension and subframe mounting points, etc..the ongoing fun will be endless..

 

[Ade B]

Everywhere you can get to. Inside the chassis rails, sills, inner and outer wings, spring supports, door skins, rear suspension and subframe mounting points, etc..the ongoing fun will be endless..

Sounds complicated, might get my hands dirty.. one for another day methinks..

Ade

 

[Dave Lewis]

I periodically clean out the wheel arch lips and waxoyl them with a paint brush. Just done it this morning in fact. Not too taxing or dirty. Wear marigolds!

 

[Mike Walker]

I've just squirted the stuff on the jacking points (which were all in good fettle) as a precaution against rot. I've got most of a can left - where else would be a good place to coat which is easy to get to..

One thought is to pop the wheels off and coat the newish springs?

The underside is in pretty good nick as most of the original protection is still there..

Ade

I thought Waxoyl was a proprietary material applied by specialists . Where can you buy it from please? Halfords???

 

[stevesey]

I thought Waxoyl was a proprietary material applied by specialists . Where can you buy it from please? Halfords???

Yep halfords or any decent car shop. Not sure about the specialist idea, it's been the most popular diy rust proofer since Noah's day (there are independant rust proofing specialists for enthusiasts, classic cars etc who do use it though).

 

[grober]

The most important thing with waxoil is to make sure its nice and warm before application to make sure the "wax" is fully dissolved in the "oil" =solvent. Some folks advocate placing the can in a bucket of warm water an hour before application followed by some vigorous aggitation . Dave's tip on the w124 wheel arch lips is a good one.

 

[Adam230K]

So Waxoyl prevents rust i take it?

 

[Dave Lewis]

Yup. Kills it to a certain extent, too.

 

[NW_Merc]

If its in aerosol form is it still required to place the canister in warmish water?

 

[stevesey]

If its in aerosol form is it still required to place the canister in warmish water?

Helps to ensure it's warm - in the summer I stick the aersol can in the sun for a while before using it and in the winter plonk it on top of the CH boilder (which is in the garage).

 

[lynall]

Google (before and after) bloke called chris, does a lot of landrovers have heard some good and some bad.
Spoke to him on the phone seemed okay to me.


Lynall

 

[ms500]

For the wheel arches and underbody I prefer to use Hammerite underbody seal, this conatains Waxoyl but is better for high impact areas. I got a big can of it for £9.99 from Halfords.

I jacked up the car, removed each wheel and rubbed all mud and dirt from the arches and suspension components with a brush, then painted on the underbody seal to all the metal areas.

 

[Dieselman]

Waxoyl mixed with bitumen paint is an excellent underbody sealer. That's what the underbody seal is.

 

[NW_Merc]

Google (before and after) bloke called chris, does a lot of landrovers have heard some good and some bad.
Spoke to him on the phone seemed okay to me.


Lynall

http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/whyrustproof.htm

 

[br1anstorm]

Just to endorse the earlier posts about Chris of Before 'n' After. He did one of my cars, and did a decent job.

If you have a car you enjoy and want to keep, it makes sense to take steps to keep the dreaded rot at bay, especially if you drive on slushy/salty roads in winter. Regular and extensive waxoyling is as good a precaution as you can hope for.

For DIY, there's no denying that it's a messy job. Pick a warm dry day, put overalls/old clothes on, protect your drive or garage floor, warm the can and, if you're doing areas of any size, buy a large canister and get the pressure-sprayer pump kit (comes with a circular can, and reaches the parts aerosols can't). And have plenty of white spirit available to clean up afterwards!

 

[Dieselman]

The best way to do this job is by using compressed air and a shutz gun. You use a lot less product, get a better coverage and don't get any on you.

Waxoyl isn't the most effective product of it's type so if you can buy either 3M or Bilt-Hamber, they cling and work much better.

 

[Uberwagon]

Google (before and after) bloke called chris, does a lot of landrovers have heard some good and some bad.
Spoke to him on the phone seemed okay to me.


Lynall

My W124 is going to him after this winter, seen some of his work at Tixover and was hugely impressed.

Dave!

 

[KillerHERTZ]

I plan to do this in the next few weeks, I was always reluctant as I didnt want my car covered in 'sticky' paint for months. How long until it normally stops being so sticky?

 

[Dieselman]

I plan to do this in the next few weeks, I was always reluctant as I didnt want my car covered in 'sticky' paint for months. How long until it normally stops being so sticky?

Ideally never but it will dry up after a few months. As far as sticky paint, it will be in enclosed sections and underneath, you won't touch it.