Which car battery for my w220

[shorif2000]

When battery was flat it the 2nd click initially turned on electrics but it wouldn't turn over. Pumping gas didnt help, after i tried again, inserting the key, it did not even turn anything on. Key would turn. After the full charge it seems to be all well other than what i mentioned above with the windows.

I did have to pump gas once when i turned it 1st time. Drove around for hour and half with no problems.

Also i checked voltage on the climate control. N.24 showed 13.4 to 13.9 very rarely hit 14. Would that be problem? Something to do with alternator but didn't quite understand it

Current battery has been in here for 3 years since i bought it from Previous owner. Funnily it never went flat in winter when i dont drive it for 2 weeks but in summer it went flat when i haven't driven for a month. Current battery is not AGM took me 2 days to charge it with ctek.

I have had issues with heating not being powerfull sometimes. Even had the heating unit control replaced last year

 

[steveskeggy]

Pumping the throttle does naff all with fuel injection, when cars had carburettors, the car had a device that squirted fuel into the throttle every time you pressed the accelerator, doing this when you were turning the engine over made the fuel mixture even richer than just using the choke (remember those?).
These days the ECU does all that for you, all you are doing when you pump the throttle is opening the butterfly flap and closing it,

13.4 to 13.9 is bang on for voltage when the engine is running, you can pretty much guarantee your alternator is working OK.
To be honest, in my experience with my S55, 3 years is a good life for one of these.
I have had batteries that died after six months, wont go to kwikfit again!

That you can turn the key when the battery is charged, is a bit of a relief, it means all the pre-start requirements have been reached (All the expensive stuff is working!), if you turn the key to start, and nothing happens, it can mean that the battery has a low current (Usually have the clacking noise and dashboard flashing).
It can also mean the starter motor is lunched, but usually the starter will die after a length of time, going slower and slower, not often it just dies straight away (and when it does start, if it spins normally, it most likely is not the motor).

Thirdly, it can mean there is a faulty relay, which is in the right hand SAM under the bonnet (The fuse diagram incorrectly lists this as Choke, but it is the relay for the low tension side of the starter).

In your case, yes its looking likely to be the battery.
Garages used to do what was called a drop test, it used a meter to more or less short the battery out, and depending how fast the current dropped, they could tell if the battery was had it.

Please remember, the starting proceedure for the engine has more to do with the current coming from the battery than the voltage, you can have a battery putting out 12v, but wont start the car because it is putting out low current.

Two more things.
Its up to you if you want to go AGM or Lead Acid, I cant really say any more than MB recommend AGM, I dont have any experience with AGM, so probably best to do a bit of research first.
Bigger is not always better, You may think that getting a high A/H battery would be best, however this is not always the case, if you get a higher rated battery than standard, the alternator will have to work harder to charge it up, and in some cases it will not be able to charge it up, shortening the lifetime of the alternator, and probably the battery.
The standard battery is rated as 95A/H, I wouldnt go over 100A/H.

 

[shorif2000]

Thanks

 

[Atavus]

I would only use an AGM battery on a car that’s made to charge one correctly. I understand some people have done this, but I wouldn’t.

 

[shorif2000]

I noticed another thing today. The suspension does not seem to go back down once i take key out and lock the car. The ride height stays same.

Its use to go down once key is out and locked and it use to rise up when i unlock and put key in. What is normal?

 

[alabbasi]

You can use a scanner or the SDS to set which battery is being used so that the car will charge appropriately. 3 years for a Battery in the UK, mounted in the boot does not seem like a long time. I get that kind of life out of a battery in Texas, I'd expect a lot better performance in milder weather.

 

[shorif2000]

My battery went flat again. I think the air pump was culprit as it was pumping crazy.

I tried trickle charger 3 times. 1st 2 times i did no agm then agm mode, it goes to stage 7 then restarts. Then i tried recondition in non agam mode it red lights at stage 5




I got battery from Mercedes, they told me this one is new gel based and said i have to start it at least once a week or it will go flat. They not sure about trickle charger.



Can i use the ctek mx5 on this if it dies?

 

[SpikyMikey]

My battery went flat again. I think the air pump was culprit as it was pumping crazy.

I tried trickle charger 3 times. 1st 2 times i did no agm then agm mode, it goes to stage 7 then restarts. Then i tried recondition in non agam mode it red lights at stage 5

View attachment 160766


I got battery from Mercedes, they told me this one is new gel based and said i have to start it at least once a week or it will go flat. They not sure about trickle charger.

View attachment 160767

Can i use the ctek mx5 on this if it dies?

GEL

www.ctek.com

 

[OneForTheRoad]

My battery went flat again. I think the air pump was culprit as it was pumping crazy.

I tried trickle charger 3 times. 1st 2 times i did no agm then agm mode, it goes to stage 7 then restarts. Then i tried recondition in non agam mode it red lights at stage 5

View attachment 160766


I got battery from Mercedes, they told me this one is new gel based and said i have to start it at least once a week or it will go flat. They not sure about trickle charger.

View attachment 160767

Can i use the ctek mx5 on this if it dies?

Why wait until it dies , these batteries if like AGM, can't be brought back from the dead if they fall below around 10.5v . Use it whenever the cars left if you can , especially with winter on its way.

You can buy gel chargers , but the ctek is a smart , it should be ok.

 

[SpikyMikey]

Is that part number really a gel battery anyway? Looks like AGM according to this listing.
MERCEDES-BENZ GLE W166 Battery A001982820826 New Genuine | eBay

 

[shorif2000]

Thanks everyone.

I mentioned what i was told @SpikyMikey

 

[Uky]

CTEK chargers are smart. Set it to "CAR" and "AGM" after connecting it to the battery
and applied AC 230/240V. If the battery is OK, the charger should indicate "Green" after
a few hours.

The air pump controller has a time-out. It should turn off after only a minute or two
if the pressure in the central locking sytem or the seats have been built up.
It should NOT go on pumping. (I had a leak in the hose leading to the front seats
and had to lift out both seats (50+ kg) and lift the carpet up to find the Y-joint
that was cracked.)

Some early models of C215 (and possibly W220) ca 1999...2001 has a software fault in the ABC-module.
If the car has not been locked within 1 minute after turning of the ignition, the ABC controller box will stay active,
not go into "sleep-mode" and so drain the battery. I do not have the service document from WIS left
since it went with my own C215 when it was sold. Mercedes did not adopt Flash-memories for the firmware
until several years after these components were introduced. If the ABC box is affected it will have to be replaced.

I know also know that in some models with old GSM-phones (Motorola) the RF module did not shut down.
Mercedes replaced those after complaints.

When checking for battery drain, get a clamp-on current meter. Take the car out for a spin.
Park. Open the rear hatch. Trick the car in beleiving that the hatch has been locked (can be done by
manipulating the lock fork) Clamp the current meter around one of the battery poles.
Lock the car using the key-fob while sitting on the rear bumper and notice one control box
after another go to sleep. This takes some time. Eventually, if all is OK, the drain should only
be a few mA after an hour or so.

 

[Gazwould]

I would always buy a genuine MB battery. They are better and made to MB's specs.

Any proof of this ?

 

[shorif2000]

I was cleaning my car when this happened. It wasn't locked. Only noticed the problem when i finished waxing and the boot didnt close.

I do hear a hissing and get constant pumping if i turn passenger lumbar on. So i set them all to 0 untill i get that checked out.

I seemed to have another problem since the battery change, the command system does not turn on. If i press the md or disc they do eject. But the screen doesn't turn on

 

[BlackC55]

Any proof of this ?

They are heavier than the aftermarket equivalent. I changed another yesterday that was 12 years old.

 

[NOMONEYBUTAMERC]

Help ! I bought a dual 12v socket/ phone charger for my 1958 Wolseley 1500. I was about to fit it when I realised the car is positive earth . Normally I can just about manage to connect something that only has two wires, but I am easily confused . If I connect the red wire from the charger to the negative terminal of the battery would that be correct ? Confused from Somerset .

 

[Ted]

First of all, it’s a simple job to convert to negative earth assuming no radio or electronic ignition. Stays original and easy to convert back.
Post up a photo of the charger or a link and I should be able to advise. It’s easy to get this wrong if it has any metal parts but I would expect the charger red to go to earth and the black to go to the negative (i.e. live) side of the battery or ignition switch.
If you connect to the ign switch, I would expect permanent live to be brown and ignition switched to be white.
Edit: don’t forget to fuse it as near as possible to where you tap in to the live! (Neg)

 

[NOMONEYBUTAMERC]

First of all, it’s a simple job to convert to negative earth assuming no radio or electronic ignition. Stays original and easy to convert back.
Post up a photo of the charger or a link and I should be able to advise. It’s easy to get this wrong if it has any metal parts but I would expect the charger red to go to earth and the black to go to the negative (i.e. live) side of the battery or ignition switch.
If you connect to the ign switch, I would expect permanent live to be brown and ignition switched to be white.
Edit: don’t forget to fuse it as near as possible to where you tap in to the live! (Neg)

As above Ted. It’s got electronic ignition so really don’t want to change polarity. I would probably just land up with a pile of molten metal

 

[NOMONEYBUTAMERC]

View attachment 161578View attachment 161579
As above Ted. It’s got electronic ignition so really don’t want to change polarity. I would probably just land up with a pile of molten metal

There is a fuse on the red.

 

[Ted]

Ok, so here’s what I would do.
Leave the usb connected as is. That should work fine.
I would swap the wires round on the fag lighter so that the red wire goes to the centre and the black wire goes to the body. This means that anything plugged into it should be the correct polarity, but I would test it with something ‘disposable’ first - e.g. an old power supply.
The black wire MUST be fused as close to the flying end of the wire. The fuse in the red wire can be left in place or chopped out. The main bracket looks to be plastic so that is fine.
I can’t see any exposed metal apart from the fag lighter body, but if there is any, either give up on the idea or make absolutely sure that it can’t touch the body of the car (shouldn’t do any damage as the fuse should blow) but best to be sure.
Red supply wire to earth, black supply wire to a live feed.
I know it all looks to be about face but I’m 99% sure that will work for a positive earth vehicle.
Feel free to ask away if you have any questions.

Edit: looking at the pic again, I would wrap insulating tape around the exposed metal parts of the fag lighter outlet just in case as this will now be live. And make sure that anything plugged into it hasn’t got any exposed metal as an ‘earth’