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1993 SL500 - to break or not to break

lanciaman

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Joined
Feb 12, 2010
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Hi all. I have a 93 R129 with an ASR fault which seems impossible to fix. It has been into 2 "specialists" with no results. I have replaced the ABS module which one of them said the diagnostics came up with (new Merc price £5400) and the latest one thinks it may be some other part at £1700.

Well, it ain't worth it. Being an honest sort I can't sell it as is so am thinking just to break it. I imagine this will mean it lying around for years as bits are picked off it but I can't see another option.

Does anyone know if there is much demand for bits or is this a dumb idea?
thanks
 
whats the ASR fault? ASR is a very simple form of traction control and it has its own control module. Normally its the module or the ASR pump at fault.

Having said that I had an intermittent ASR fault on my SEC that was fixed by me simply fiddling with/swapping things, dont think I ever got to the bottom of it but the light hasnt come on in ages... touches wood.
 
Hi ASR basically cuts in after 10 seconds or so. Reduces power or sometimes cuts it to idle speed only. ABS/ASR module already changed - albeit for a "guaranteed" used one. Doesn't seem to be anything conclusive. I got the thing last January - it sat for 3 or 4 months until spring and has been plagued with it since then. Has basically been in 2 "specialists" since August. Has saved me a load in petrol as have only done about 50 miles in it all the same. But enough is enough, so a disposal of some sort needed.
 
It can be a real pain to get to the bottom of... especially for a garage as these things can take a lot of trial and error which a customer is never willing to pay for.

I guess it all depends on how much you paid for the car.

R129 bits are valuable but not all parts will sell instantly as the cars are pretty reliable.

Things you will sell very quickly are control modules and pumps for roof, ABS etc etc.

If it was an earlier car I may even have offered you for it as I could transplant the engine and box into the widebody, the cars after 92 had different ignition IIRC making it difficult to do the swap....
 
It can be a real pain to get to the bottom of... especially for a garage as these things can take a lot of trial and error which a customer is never willing to pay for.

I guess it all depends on how much you paid for the car.

R129 bits are valuable but not all parts will sell instantly as the cars are pretty reliable.

Things you will sell very quickly are control modules and pumps for roof, ABS etc etc.

If it was an earlier car I may even have offered you for it as I could transplant the engine and box into the widebody, the cars after 92 had different ignition IIRC making it difficult to do the swap....

Certainly is proving to be so. It has been in since September so can't be accused of being guilty of not giving them time!

No, if breaking it will sit here for years - and no doubt be immobile after the first month or so! Under no illusions here. But I cannot sell to some unsuspecting punter I'm afraid.

Did think about transplanting the engine into my Fiat Panda 4x4 - well not really, but it would giveit a bit more poke!
 
Try selling it on ebay with a full description of the fault. Set your reserve at what it's worth to get rid and you might get a pleasant surprise.
 
^^ Agreed! That's exactly what I would do. You are likely to get something reasonable for it and then that's the headache over with! I'm facing a similar issue with my '87 Saab 900i that I bought a few years ago to restore and never did. It's sat on SORN in my drive for about 4 years now. Ebay is probably the only way to shift ti now!
 
Can you not bypass the ASR system and disable it completely? It's much more fun driving without it anyhow! :D
 
Yep, selling it and being up front with the problem is probably the best way.

I have been told you can't bypass the ASR as it is linked to the ABS and all the rest of it.....

Joy!
 
Does the engine run rough when the light is on?
 
Does the engine run rough when the light is on?

No, it is as smooth as you like, just either power down or very occasionally drops to idle revs only - which isn't the handiest thing. Turn it off, and is fine again for a couple of moments and kicks in again. :mad:
 
I read this at www.benzworld.org/forums/r129.../1247486-sl500-asr-problem.html

I have a similar problem and im thinking of trying this workaround


Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedDemon
They said it is okay to drive while in the LH mode.

If the car is in Limp Home mode, then the problem is most likely the throttle actuator. If that is the case, you can restore normal power with a simple modification to the throttle linkage.

The rod #97 rotates to move the plate in the throttle body (picture). Normally #97 moves by the throttle actuator and rod #109. But in LH mode the actuator is dead, and #97 moves through an arm that engages it at its back end (circled). With the air cleaner assembly removed and the throttle closed, in LH mode you can see that as the gas pedal is pressed the arm has to move through a gap before it begins to rotate #97. You can eliminate this slop by wedging a rubber hose or something else into the gap. Another option which I prefer is to change the length of one of the rods in the linkage (I think it is #88) to reposition the arm and eliminate the gap.

 
I read this at www.benzworld.org/forums/r129.../1247486-sl500-asr-problem.html

I have a similar problem and im thinking of trying this workaround


Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedDemon
They said it is okay to drive while in the LH mode.

If the car is in Limp Home mode, then the problem is most likely the throttle actuator. If that is the case, you can restore normal power with a simple modification to the throttle linkage.

The rod #97 rotates to move the plate in the throttle body (picture). Normally #97 moves by the throttle actuator and rod #109. But in LH mode the actuator is dead, and #97 moves through an arm that engages it at its back end (circled). With the air cleaner assembly removed and the throttle closed, in LH mode you can see that as the gas pedal is pressed the arm has to move through a gap before it begins to rotate #97. You can eliminate this slop by wedging a rubber hose or something else into the gap. Another option which I prefer is to change the length of one of the rods in the linkage (I think it is #88) to reposition the arm and eliminate the gap.


Sounds too complex for me. Apologies to those who pm'd about parts. It is still in the garage but I get it back this Wednesday, where it will promptly be stuck in the shed under a cover and be forgotten about for the next 10 years (at least I hope). May have to move it and have it sitting outside if it needs to make way for a "new" Lancia or two. Watch out for it in Practical Classics with a tree growing through it in 10 years!!
 

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