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2003 C Class 2.2 diesel estate non crank.

sam496

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Nov 25, 2014
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17
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c class 2.2 estate
Hi all,

Having been away for several weeks twice in the recent past I was not surprised that I had to Jump start the above car.

Its been fine for the last two weeks of occasional use perhaps 5 drives in that time, not sure if it has but had a feeling that there was a slight flare of revs on the 2 to 3 shift, was unsure if its always been like that.

This morning, cold and windows iced over I did my normal start up (which was fine) and went round clearing the windows of ice, on getting back in less that 2 minutes I had an ESP error, which I cancelled, it came back after 75 yards or so. I drove to my lift share pickup point (about 5 miles and all was fine but the ESP error was still there.

Tonight when I was dropped off and after reading about the error I started the car and went to full lock and held for a few seconds and to the other end and same, cleared the error, switched off and waited about 30 seconds. The error was gone.

Started the car and drove home 5 miles with no problems, I parked out side and turned off, restarted a few mins later to check the ESP error still not returned. I left the car outside in the road to wait on the other half to arrive and put her car in the drive first. Upon going back out to move mine in (3 hours later) I cannot get it to crank, I've tried several times and even swapped over keys as the battery was getting low on my normal set but no joy. no crank, lights are all strong and dashboard display lights up as it should, no errors displayed.

I'm leaving it for tomorrow as its dark, I have put a spare Battery on charge so that I have plenty of power, also have decent jumper cables (welding cable). plenty of tools and have a good working knowledge of engines and vehicles in general but never really had a lot to do with MB's of any sort.

Any common problems I should look out for??

Thanks in advance

Sam
 
In addition to the above if I key on to full ignition and wait the heater fan will run (switched on) but as soon as I go to the crank position it stops.
 
latest

latest is that I found fuse 52 blown (15 amp)

replaced with new and still the same when trying to start, blew fuse again.

replaced again and stood outside when trying to crank, heard a click and then the fuse blew again..

Battery is at 11.97 volts, should be plenty good enough to crank.
 
In addition to the above if I key on to full ignition and wait the heater fan will run (switched on) but as soon as I go to the crank position it stops.
That's normal. It's so the starter motor gets as much power as possible from the battery.

latest is that I found fuse 52 blown (15 amp)

replaced with new and still the same when trying to start, blew fuse again.

replaced again and stood outside when trying to crank, heard a click and then the fuse blew again..

Battery is at 11.97 volts, should be plenty good enough to crank.

A short somewhere. There's a purple wire from the front SAM which is the starter excite. You can disconnect it from the SAM and check for a short to earth. Have you checked on the fuse card what fuse 52 is for? Failing that you need to get it on a STAR machine and get it diagnosed properly.

Could be related to the ESP fault, ESP always throws faults if there is low voltage. I'd suggest testing the battery or at least checking the date on it. Static voltage doesn't really tell you a lot. Wouldn't hurt to put a new one on if in doubt.
 
just disconnected the starter plug with the purple wire (starter solenoid excite wire) switched to crank and fuse remains intact. Have read on the net that fuse 52 is start fuse.

checked continuity of purple wire to ground and its a dead short. as the car has run fine to date I can only now assume its the Starter motor assembly unless I can find a place where that excite wire has rubbed through (highly unlikely).

As I've found a cause I'll leave the battery for the time being until I get this issue sorted, I have spare batteries of at least equal capacity if required.

Thanks for taking the trouble to reply
 
latest is that I found fuse 52 blown (15 amp)

replaced with new and still the same when trying to start, blew fuse again.

replaced again and stood outside when trying to crank, heard a click and then the fuse blew again..

Battery is at 11.97 volts, should be plenty good enough to crank.


Battery is knackered
 
Last edited:
I had this problem it turned out to be the starter motor
 
Its started several times now with no problem with the 20 amp fuse, an expert at work said it could probably go as far as 30 amps with no problem as the coil normally draws about that anyway, the reason the 15 amp fuse does not blow is the pull in coil is only active for a tiny amount of time, I guess as the car is a bit long in the tooth as is the starter it could be that it does not pull in as quickly and that in turn pulls more current than the fuse can handle which supports what the other thread has to say. I'm leaving at 20 amps ..

Thanks for the input should it occur again in the next few days or weeks I'm looking at a new starter. As for the battery I'll change that when it needs it, I have a daily 100 mile round trip to work in the dark both ways, heater washers wipers lights etc all going so the battery charging system gets a good work out.
 
Hi, I had the same with my 54 c220 cdi it was the starter motor it blow the fuse I replaced it it lasted a few days then when again finally replaced the starter motor no more problems.
Ps there are lots to reports about these starter motor being a bas!!!!!!! To change but they are easy but you need a long 3/8 extension to get to the top bolt.
 

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