270 CDI No start - Please urgent

[chawns]

Hi. I have a CLK 270 CDI , i changed the seal on the highpressure pump. Just on one of the heads.
After that the car started fine after the air was blead out. 2 days later it just would not start. I have checked the pipes going to the high pressure pump , checked the fuel going out from the pump and to the injectors. There is fuel but i dont know if its the right amount.
I have scanned the car and i am posting the results here.
I got told it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor which could have gone bad. I changed it with a new one today still no start. My diagnostic tool is showing RPM's while cranking.

 

[br0ke]

My CLK was sucking in air through the seals and took an eternity to start each time. I kept the battery on charge until the new seals arrived.
When the battery was dying, the car would click, but not turn over, but batteries are strange things. I have had individual cells go and have the full 12.8v and no oomph.
I would try charging the battery overnight before looking any deeper.

 

[chawns]

Thank you for the reply. The battery is brand new and keeps a solid charge. I have disconnected the main HIGH pressure pipe and got someone to turn the engine around. The diesel just pours out from the outlet pipe and does not spray out like i was expecting , did not look very high pressure to me at all.

 

[mersum1es]

It won't rise the pressure if pipe is open. Can you see live data of rail pressure (in case you couls measure injector back flow)? Do you see air bubbles in clear fuel pipes?. Do you have over 1/2 tank fuel?

 

[chawns]

My CLK was sucking in air through the seals and took an eternity to start each time. I kept the battery on charge until the new seals arrived.
When the battery was dying, the car would click, but not turn over, but batteries are strange things. I have had individual cells go and have the full 12.8v and no oomph.
I would try charging the battery overnight before looking any deeper.

It won't rise the pressure if pipe is open. Can you see live data of rail pressure (in case you couls measure injector back flow)? Do you see air bubbles in clear fuel pipes?. Do you have over 1/2 tank fuel?

I have not measured the injector , does not seem possible since the car wont start. Had a mechanic come to the car with a professional diagnostic machine. There were ALOT of fault codes according to him and that i should just wreck the car. Only thing left i can think of is Glow plugs? Can bad glow plugs cause no start? The temperature he right now is 17*C

I have almost half a tank of fuel .

 

[m80]

Glow plugs have very little effect on the 270, specially considering our mild temperatures at this time of year.
Look else where.

Most of your faults 'might' come from a low battery or even low voltage just from the starting.

I would be looking for air ingress.

 

[chawns]

Glow plugs have very little effect on the 270, specially considering our mild temperatures at this time of year.
Look else where.

Most of your faults 'might' come from a low battery or even low voltage just from the starting.

I would be looking for air ingress.

Again thank you for the reply. There is no visible air in the pipes going to the HP pump , is there any way to check for air to confirm ?
I have ordered two O - rings for the pipes from MB i will get them today. Battery is a brand new 90AH and fully charged.

I am attaching the fault codes that i got initially , i have erased them and only fault code for glow plugs remains.

 

[m80]

There are about 6 - 7 of the smaller green 'o' rings on the fuel lines, read up some as manipulation specially when coled can break the connectors. Any passing air would / should only cause a difficult start rather than no start.
Fuel filters are known to cause issue.
I would like to eliminate the immobiliser code.

But as previous the battery voltage dropping during an extended start attempt 'can' bring up many spurious codes.

Edit, on a 270 engine I did have the fuel pump cause issue, but I could see that was leaking at the front of the engine, and the diesel smell was apparent.

 

[chawns]

There are about 6 - 7 of the smaller green 'o' rings on the fuel lines, read up some as manipulation specially when coled can break the connectors. Any passing air would / should only cause a difficult start rather than no start.
Fuel filters are known to cause issue.
I would like to eliminate the immobiliser code.

But as previous the battery voltage dropping during an extended start attempt 'can' bring up many spurious codes.

Edit, on a 270 engine I did have the fuel pump cause issue, but I could see that was leaking at the front of the engine, and the diesel smell was apparent.

That is how the whole issue started. One of the heads were leaking , the car was still operating perfectly. I ordered a seal kit and just changed the seals on one of the heads, i did not touch the others. After that i assembled the pump back and the car started fine after a few tries. It worked fine for 2 days but when i gave it full throttle it would shut off and CHECK Engine light would come on. It could be restarted straight away and was fine if i did not give it full throttle. Suddenly after it was parked for 2-3hours it refused to start. I have installed a new CPS from VEMO but the old CPS was fine(?)
Since then it has started briefly two times but shut off almost immediately. Since then no start whatsoever. Should i get a can of Quick Start?

 

[mersum1es]

I have not measured the injector , does not seem possible since the car wont start. Had a mechanic come to the car with a professional diagnostic machine.

I have almost half a tank of fuel .

You can measure leak just by cranking.

If you could measure rail pressure it would be easier to continue (is is fuel or electrical problem). New fault codes 'immobilizer autohorization' is only which can cause no start but again rail pressure is not monitored and giving fault codes during cranking.

 

[m80]

With it previously starting briefly and shutting down, and similar after being stood for a few hours, I would be trying to eliminate air in the system.
I'm expecting yours will have the clear fuel lines and often air can be seen in them, that being the case then it's trying to find where the air is ingressing.
The filters can pass air.

Do these have a fuel tank lift pump? By removing the out going connection at the filter, and running a connected pipe into a bucket, you can prove that is working and that the filter hasn't got a blockage. When the ignition is turned even w/o the engine running, if there is a lift pump the flow is significant for 30 seconds.

 

[chawns]

You can measure leak just by cranking.

If you could measure rail pressure it would be easier to continue (is is fuel or electrical problem). New fault codes 'immobilizer autohorization' is only which can cause no start but again rail pressure is not monitored and giving fault codes during cranking.

With it previously starting briefly and shutting down, and similar after being stood for a few hours, I would be trying to eliminate air in the system.
I'm expecting yours will have the clear fuel lines and often air can be seen in them, that being the case then it's trying to find where the air is ingressing.
The filters can pass air.

Do these have a fuel tank lift pump? By removing the out going connection at the filter, and running a connected pipe into a bucket, you can prove that is working and that the filter hasn't got a blockage. When the ignition is turned even w/o the engine running, if there is a lift pump the flow is significant for 30 seconds.

It does have a lift pump in the back somewhere , i have checked the fuse it is fine and since there is fuel going to the HP fuel pump im assuming it works. I have not tried listening for it with ignition on since the are so many other buzzing humming noises from this car with ignition on.

What i did today is get a prinout of the Professional in depth troubleshooting diagnostic session. Should i upload a copy?
Other than that i got new O-rings for the two plastic pipes on the HP pump , cracked open HP pump outlet to check for fuel flow.
Cracked each injector fuel line open one by one and the fuel is going to all 5 injectors. Injector closest to the front of the car seemed to have some air in the connection. There is no visible air in the plastic pipes , they are not clear anymore but yellowish but i can see bubbles when i disconnected them. No visible leaks from the HP pump either. The car just cranks thats it no signs of life whatsoever.
The only fault code showing now is GLOW PLUGS. Could this have something to do with glow plugs or glow plug relays perhaps?

The immobilizer fault code did not return , i will double check with my own Delphi DS diagnostic tool. CPS is fine since the diagnostic tool reads engine RPM while cranking. Tachometer / RPM gauge on car shows no reading at all while cranking.

I am really on the edge of giving up , i am really out of ideas

 

[m80]

These can be a real bugger to start after a filter change. If air has got in the result might well be similar.
You're not suposed to crank fro more than 15 seconds, I think, but I certainly have needed to in the past. Knowing the 270 can be such a bugger I've cranked till it fired after a filter change.
But if air is getting in the same will happen again, it's just that if you can get it to start you've a pretty good idea that it is down to air ingress.

 

[91dm]

Bad glow plugs shouldn't stop it from starting.

Is the dash coming up with any faults? All the wires on the top of the injectors ok?

 

[chawns]

These can be a real bugger to start after a filter change. If air has got in the result might well be similar.
You're not suposed to crank fro more than 15 seconds, I think, but I certainly have needed to in the past. Knowing the 270 can be such a bugger I've cranked till it fired after a filter change.
But if air is getting in the same will happen again, it's just that if you can get it to start you've a pretty good idea that it is down to air ingress.

I have tried cranking the engine for 6-9 seconds again and again (maybe 11-12 times??) and it does not show any life. Shouldn't the air have been blead out by now?

Bad glow plugs shouldn't stop it from starting.

Is the dash coming up with any faults? All the wires on the top of the injectors ok?

The dash shows : Parking brake warning , Glow plug light , Check Engine light plus ABS and the other usual.
Glow plug light does not always seem to be there if i put ignition back to 1st click and try cranking it.
I am really suspecting that my HP pump is not making enough pressure. I have two questions
I am being offered a HP pump from a 2002 E270 CDI for about 100£ plus shipping. This is from a 100% running and driving car but it has done over 450.000km. The price is still pretty cheap and there are not a lot of other options locally.
2nd question , can i use a HP pump from a 200CDI on my 270 CDI ?
Pictures of the 200 CDI pump

 

[a111r]

Keep going.. it's down to air, you'll flatten 3 batteries worth of power if you don't use easi-start.
Those CP1 pumps are robust and simple, generally.
And if it is leaking, you can re-seal it with a Bosch kit for a low cost.

 

[toolman1954]

What is the temperature there in your part of Norway, here in the UK glow plugs are not essential because temperature is still ok, but for you it might be different. Do you have a friend who could tow you in your car? A bit of a last ditch attempt really, but a good long tow might just generate enough fuel pressure to get it going. If that fails ............I would probably be thinking of taking out the injectors and testing them. Whar sort of mileage has your car under its belt?

Steve.

 

[chawns]

Keep going.. it's down to air, you'll flatten 3 batteries worth of power if you don't use easi-start.
Those CP1 pumps are robust and simple, generally.
And if it is leaking, you can re-seal it with a Bosch kit for a low cost.

I have tried starting for a while , it could be air , the pump has no visible leaks now since i already changed the seals on one the heads.

What is the temperature there in your part of Norway, here in the UK glow plugs are not essential because temperature is still ok, but for you it might be different. Do you have a friend who could tow you in your car? A bit of a last ditch attempt really, but a good long tow might just generate enough fuel pressure to get it going. If that fails ............I would probably be thinking of taking out the injectors and testing them. Whar sort of mileage has your car under its belt?

Steve.

Temperature is 17*C daytime and around 10*C night time. The car is automatic so tow would not work i assume? It has done 240.000 kilometres.

 

[91dm]

You need to crank it for much longer to pull the diesel through. Connect a second battery or booster and keep it turning over, need to make sure it's turning over fast though.

 

[chawns]

You need to crank it for much longer to pull the diesel through. Connect a second battery or booster and keep it turning over, need to make sure it's turning over fast though.

There is pressurized diesel coming out of the outlet of the HP Pump when i loosened it. Same with the injectors , all injectors are leaking fuel while cranking after i loosened the fuel pipe going to injectors. The injector closest to the front of the car had a hissing noise and showed bubbles when i loosened the high pressure line going to each injector. Should i get some Start spray / Easy start and try? It says specifically do no use on a diesel with glow plugs. I was thinking to spray some into the intake while someone cranked the engine so to avoid glow plugs. Should i try that? I am really out of ideas , only thing i can try besides this is get a used working HP pump and see if that solves the problem.