• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

722.6 ATF Change Tips

VenomX

Active Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2024
Messages
119
Location
England
Car
C240 2002
Should be doing a filter, gasket and fluid change on the 722.6 soon. car is 23 years and has never had it done so is well past its's due date to be done. Only 38K miles though.
I will be using all genuine parts from Mercedes. No torque converter drain, just the pan etc as the gasket seems to seep a bit.

I plan on not touching the drain plug on the sump, just syphon out as much as I can from the top with a vacuum pump ( makes the job a bit cleaner and means no messing with a potential source of leak in the future )
remove the 6 torx T30s, clean the pan, replace the filter, and gasket then torque back up to 8Nm each and then put back in approx the amount I took out. -- Then measure levels cold first, get them right - take for a drive and then add more if needed.
I do have a digital thermometer which is very handy for getting the temp of the sump. Also have a dipstick for the level check.
Pilot bush has already been done.

I know safety comes first, I always use stands on the sills, but for this job I will buy an extra set of stands and put them underneath as extra security.

Anyone got advice for this job at all ?

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Should be doing a filter, gasket and fluid change on the 722.6 soon. car is 23 years and has never had it done so is well past its's due date to be done. Only 38K miles though.
I will be using all genuine parts from Mercedes. No torque converter drain, just the pan etc as the gasket seems to seep a bit.

I plan on not touching the plug on the sump, just syphon out as much as I can from the top with a vacuum pump ( makes the job a bit cleaner and means no messing with a potential source of leak in the future )
remove the 6 torx T30s, clean the pan, replace the filter, and gasket then torque back up to 8Nm each and then put back in approx the amount I took out. -- Then measure levels cold first, get them right - take for a drive and then add more if needed.
I do have a digital thermometer which is very handy for getting the temp of the sump. Also have a dipstick for the level check.

I know safety comes first, I always use stands on the sills, but for this job I will buy an extra set of stands and put them underneath as extra security.

Anyone got advice for this job at all ?

Thanks
The suction pump won’t remove all the ATF so be prepared for some spillage when you release the sump to drop it .
You could when you have suctioned the oil out add some clean ATF (maybe 3-3.5L ) and run the engine for a bit before suctioning again (this will get you closer to a 75% change ).
Use new bolts for the sump pan .
Use lint free cloths to wipe the sump pan , I also spray brake cleaner over mine to remove everything…Im not sure if this is good practice or not , but I’ve done it on each car 3x .
 
Use new bolts for the sump pan .

Thanks for the tips I will consider that, thanks. :)

Is it necessary to replace the 6 bolts ?
I think Mercedes have changed them from T30s, to reverse torxs ( E12 or similar )
 
Should be doing a filter, gasket and fluid change on the 722.6 soon. car is 23 years and has never had it done so is well past its's due date to be done. Only 38K miles though.
I will be using all genuine parts from Mercedes. No torque converter drain, just the pan etc as the gasket seems to seep a bit.

I plan on not touching the drain plug on the sump, just syphon out as much as I can from the top with a vacuum pump ( makes the job a bit cleaner and means no messing with a potential source of leak in the future )
remove the 6 torx T30s, clean the pan, replace the filter, and gasket then torque back up to 8Nm each and then put back in approx the amount I took out. -- Then measure levels cold first, get them right - take for a drive and then add more if needed.
I do have a digital thermometer which is very handy for getting the temp of the sump. Also have a dipstick for the level check.
Pilot bush has already been done.

I know safety comes first, I always use stands on the sills, but for this job I will buy an extra set of stands and put them underneath as extra security.

Anyone got advice for this job at all ?

Thanks
There is a thread on here by one of the Independents. Try a search for it 👍
 
Thanks for the tips I will consider that, thanks. :)

Is it necessary to replace the 6 bolts ?
I think Mercedes have changed them from T30s, to reverse torxs ( E12 or similar )
They are 23 years old buddy , for the few quid I would . At that age they might snap anyway ?
 
They are 23 years old buddy , for the few quid I would . At that age they might snap anyway ?

Good point yeah I will get them to play it safe. :thumb:

Hopefully no snapped bolts. I have heard about that, but it tends to be on the models which have exhausts very close to the sump and therefore the heat can melt the bolts ( my C240 is not designed like that, the exhausts are well clear of it and behind shields )
I will also use plenty of penetrant as usual. No rust around the car and the area has had an oil leak before so hopefully the 8Nm bolts come off fine.
 
Good point yeah I will get them to play it safe. :thumb:

Hopefully no snapped bolts. I have heard about that, but it tends to be on the models which have exhausts very close to the sump and therefore the heat can melt the bolts ( my C240 is not designed like that, the exhausts are well clear of it and behind shields )
I will also use plenty of penetrant as usual. No rust around the car and the area has had an oil leak before so hopefully the 8Nm bolts come off fine.
Change the big electrical plug on the side of the gearbox as well buddy .
 
If you have not done it yet you could let it drip into a suitable container over night, surprising how much fluid comes out, as for the pan bolts, I never replaced mine, looked like new, 8Nm is not a lot, compresses the rubber gasket well. If they look a bit manky then of course replace them.
Its a relatively simple job, cleanliness is the key.
 
Thanks guys. @W1ghty I did the pilot bush a few months back so that is sorted.

Do you recommend putting some ATF on the gasket to help seat it onto the pan? OR is dry fit best ?
 
Thanks guys. @W1ghty I did the pilot bush a few months back so that is sorted.

Do you recommend putting some ATF on the gasket to help seat it onto the pan? OR is dry fit best ?
I’ve never heard of anyone putting ATF on the gasket , I always leave it dry buddy .
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom