A Full on G-Techniq/Paint Correction Detail

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mikec32

Active Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2011
Messages
897
Car
Mercedes C32 AMG
Hello

There has been alot of talk about what is the best route to go down, when it comes to long term protection. whether its a brand new car or your pride and joy that you just want to keep the best condition possible. Now natural canauba waxes and sealants are great. selants are brilliant for there durability and ease of use and will give upto around 6 months protection on a daily driver. Waxes can be just as good but can be quite alot more in terms of prices. This is due to the price of carnauba and its natural extracts which are perfect for automobile paint. But if you want something that lasts it can cost quite a bit. Alot of my customers with there supercars will always choosen natural waxes as too perfect paint, they do look alot better in warm and depth then what a sealant can attract. But then these cars are use for sunny days and weekends, so is well worth the extra cash when involved in full paint correction and restoration. But what about the guys that love there cars but are used on a daily basis. These need something with the best durability and finish that will stay there for thousands of miles. Well now these protections are now widely accessible and come in the form of quartz composite laquer's.

Quartz composite laquer is a product that actually swaps part of its molecular structure with the molecules on the paints surface. By doing this, it actually becomes the active surface of your vehicle, therefore stronger then the 'physical bond' you recieve from... a polymer sealant. Along with this you get a crystalline film bonding to the surface, which will help light swirls and marring, and a biomimetic surface that mimics the repellency a lotus plant has against water.

This is your perfect answer for a car to stay perfect for thousands of miles and actually do what they say on the tin. But after alot of experience with these products it is a 'must' to have the paint perfect, or at least at a level you are very happy with. I say this, because as soon as these products are graced upon your paint, they are very hard to remove in the first year. So if applied to a serface with swirls marks, holograms etc, these defects will be staying and will not be removed eaily with a quartz laquer attached to them. This is why its a great time to put these protections to action on a new car. After alot of experience, no new car is perfect but 9/10 they will only need to be corrected with a single stage correction process which is easier then your 3-4 stage correction processes. But this does not rule out all the guys with older cars then have seen the miles and are looking a little tired.

That is why I have decided to show you a 2006 Audi S4 that I recently detailed. I know this is not a mercedes but i think after this write up it will help you guys decide on the best way around this process, if its worth while, and how much work really goes into applying these products the right way. Below is the car in question on arrival. The guy had heard and seen G-techniq products in action from myself before and was completely amazed. He knew this was the only road to go down on his daily driver that he had newly purchased. But he knew the car was covered in swirls, holograms and rds's from the previous owner. I would just like to make it clear that the new owner has always keeped his cars in top shape so to him swirls and holograms etc were highly eye catching to him, and had to be removed. As with all quartz laquer details, I always tell my clienst its pointless to apply to car that needs paint correction as seems a waste of money for the client. After a meeting he decided he wanted the entire car brought back to what it was like from the showrrom and further if possible. This is the car on delivery prior to a mini restoration detail:

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This was the only wheel that was not in need of a refurb, so will be fully removed and given a full wheels off detail including G-techniq C5 quarts laquer.

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Heavy milky oxidation to all brushed alluminium from TFR used at your local eastern europeon hand car wash:

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Exhaust looking pretty tired:

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and onto the heavy swirls and rds's:

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As the wheels were being removed for refurb, I went straight onto cleaning the door and boot shuts. I hadnt used this shampoo before so thought I would give it a whirl! This was mixed in a bucket and surfex was sprayed into the shuts. This was left for 3 minutes, aggitated with a swissvax detailing brush and then rinsed with ph neutral water in a watering can. I always used rinsing water in a watering can for shuts as its easy to control flow rate. Therefore not spraying water all in the interior:

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Once completed, the petrol cap was treated in the same manor:

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Then the grille:

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and then lower grille:

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Once this was completed the car was given a thorough snowfoam.

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The car was then rinsed, washed using the two bucket method including the removal of algia on the roof. Once washed the car was brought in, dried with a 70/30 towel and warm air blower to ensure a completely dry car. The car was then placed on axel stands and wheels were removed for refurb. As said one wheel was fine so the rest were sent of to my trusted friends at lepsons. You would think it would be difficult to colour match the 3 refurbed wheels to the wheel that didnt need refurbing. But after some tlc on the original wheel you will see later that its pretty much impossible to notice:) The paint and windows were then clayed with dodo juice gentle grey and megs last touch. The car was then given a full ipa wipedown to remove all silicone from the paint to ensure a true finish. Now ready full paint correction:

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Now it was time to remove all those defects from the paint, ready for the G-techiq quartz laquer's. At this stage I would like to say that this was the hardest laquer I have ever work on. All paints change in levels of soft, hard, sticky etc. But even makes and models can change between themselves. Audi is know to be hard like mercedes and bmw, but this audi was like concrete. The machine stage alone took 22 hours in labour:0 This was the bonnet before:

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a rubbish 50/50 from the bonnet:

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Bonnet after:

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Drivers front wing before:

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Drivers front wing after:

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Passenger front wing corrected:

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Front bumper corrected. The marks around the halogen to the right are not in the bumper. They are the reflection of the halogen light housing:)

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Part two, just coming.....
 
Then it was onto removing all the milky oxidations on the brushed alliminium. This was done on a wool pad and S3:

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The passenger door before. As you can see there are d.a. sanding marks as well to remove here. 99% of the paint was corrected with a LC light wool pad and scholl concepts S3 gold edition and followed up with scholl concepts s17 on a scholl concepts orange polishing pad.

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Door after:

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Half way through:

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Door complete:

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Lower half of passenger door corrected:

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The colour does make it hard to show defects up through the camera, but this shows the door completed and the wing yet to do, close up:

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Passenger rear quarter before:

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Paasenger rear quarter panel corrected:

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Reflection coming back to a very dull colour:)

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The boot lid was made of many rds's defects from automatic car washes. Due to concrete laquer it took 3 hours alone to do the top of the boot lid, but well worth it. Here is a 50/50:

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top of boot completed:

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Tailgate before:

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Tailgate after:

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Boot break light and lip corrected:

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Rear bumper corrected:

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Rear lights looking flat and dull:

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Lights after correction:

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Genereal correction shots......


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Part three coming in a moment.....
 
WOW - amazing so far. Top Gear say that Audi drivers are cocks - well the owner of that Audi is going to be a happy ****! (Although a poor one after all the work you're doing!)
 
Once the correction stage was complete it was time to remove any compound dust. This was done with a dodo juice supernatural car duster and all glass and grilles were hoovered:

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Any compound trapped in gaps were removed with dodo juice supernatuiral swob sticks:

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Once this was complete G-techniq C1 was applied to the paint. 2 drops are placed onto a makeup remover pad and applied in straight lines. 2 drops are about enough to cover half a bonnet and must not be applied in a circular motion. Once covered take a low lint microfibre and spread the C1 evenly untill full coverage. Once complete, take a second microfibre and buff off excess untill it runs clear. once complete, the C1 would of completly bonded. Try to aplly to whole panels as this will reduce the risk's of having cut off lines from the last aplication. As these, once bonded, are very difficult to remove.

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C1 can also be applied to the front and rear lights to reduce the risk of marring them again.

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This was the car after C1 was applied under standard garage strip lighting:

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With the glass protection, it is innitially applied the same way. But if the glass is not new then polish with g-techniq g4 to remove any dirt that is stopping the glass from being completely clean. Then apply G1 with a makeup remover and apply in the same fashion as C1. With this though, leave to cure for 15 minutes and then remove the residue with g-techniq G2. Once complete buff with a clean microfibre to ensure a clean, protected screen. Put 1 coat on the side windows and 3 coats to the front before applying the G2 residue remover. This will ensure a year of protection to the front screen. Once this was done it was time to clean the engine. This was done with a Hydrolux Steam gun and alot of clean microfibres. I work in small areas very carefully and did not move on until that area was completed. The seals and under bonnet were treated in the same manor. When done properlly you should not need the use of silicone protectors for colour as this should restore the engone to its natural finish. This was the engine after completion:

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The newly refurbed wheels had now arrived back so it was time to clean the existing wheel. This was cleaned with bilberry, rinsed, then iron x, rinsed, de tared with tardis, rinsed, dryed, clayed, ipa'ed, machined with a soft pad and dodo juice lime prime then fully ipa'ed again. The wheel was then ready to have C5 applied. the new wheels were also ipa'ed and then ready for aplication too. C5 was applied in the same manor with a makeup remover pad and then just buffed off with 1 clean microfibre. Tyres were degressed with surfex and dried. Calipers were also treated to C5 and arches dressed with chemical guys bare bones. The wheels were then placed back on at the right torque setting and was now time to detail th interior.

Wheel before:

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Wheel after with C5 Applied:

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G-techniq TI was then applied to the tyre's.


The leather was looking pretty dull and ingrained with dirt. So zaino z9 was applied along with the hydrolux steam gun. all plastics were also steamed and wipe with many, many clean microfibre's. Leather was dressed with LI and dash with C6. Car was given a detailed vacuum and all carpets and matts protected with i1. Once completed The roof was put back up and vacuumed with a wide attachment to remove anu light dust and lint. This was then protected with an even coating of G-Techniq i1.
 
Once completed it was pretty dame late, so unfortunately just some in the garage:

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Here is a little extract of what the owner thought of the outcome:

I recently purchased my first convertible Audi S4. Anyone who knows me well could tell you how I like to keep my cars clean and looking there best at all times.
Its seems during the winter months I invested in the local carwash to do just that for me but unfortunately the techniques used seemed to of caused more damage then good on my pride and joy. When the car was clean and the sun was out all I seemed to notice was my paintwork was covered in swirls marks.

After much research on the Internet I decided that would get in contact with Gem clean and see if they would be able to help. I was advised that a paint correction and glass coat protection was the way forward especially as the car was being used every day. Michael explained how all the procedures would be carried out and left me feeling very confident in his services, so much so I also had interior and engine bay detail done as well.

Once my car was picked up and taken away I was given daily updates on the progress which was a great way of seeing the hard work and attention to detail that was being applied by Michael. Knowing how good the car was looking from the progress photos I have to say I was still blown away with the final results and would recommend Michael and Gem clean services as a must to any car enthusiast or someone like me who just like things perfect.

I would like to thank Michael for his hard work and look forward to using him again in the future.

and below is G-Techniq products that were used in this detail:

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I hope this helps with the right way to apply G-Techniq quartz laquer protections and what you really want to be sealing behind this concrete barrier of protection. Hope you have enjoyed and any questions, I will be more then happy to help.

Cheers

Mike
 
Very nice work... might I ask what sort of money that costs to do? ( Feel free to pm if it is not the done thing to post about it...)
 
How long did it take you ? Great job by the way !!
 
Cheers for the comments. The rotary polishers I use are festool shinex, 3M & spin doctor. The job took just under 40 hours.

Cheers

Mike
 
Detailed said:
Cheers for the comments. The rotary polishers I use are festool shinex, 3M & spin doctor. The job took just under 40 hours.

Cheers

Mike

Hi Mike, where are you based, and what kind of money are we talking about for a similar service?

Thanks
Simon
 
Hi Mike, where are you based, and what kind of money are we talking about for a similar service?

Thanks
Simon

Hello

I wouldnt be allowed to tell you prices here, but all contact info is in my profile as I can not pm you due to you being a newbie.

Cheers

Mike
 

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