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AC not working

R134a is the best substitute for R12. All the others are sketchy
Yeah , I previously bought a product called ‘Freeze 12’ which Halfords sold as a substitute, but I haven’t seen it in a while . To put R134 in you have to buy port adaptors , and from memory some other adaptations are required , otherwise there is a loss of efficiency. I last used Freeze 12 in one of my W126s , and that was more than 10 years ago . If doing anything more than topping up I’d take mine to a specialist.
 
To use any other refrigerant , you have to change the adaptors. Otherwise anyone connecting their recovery equipment will contaminate their supplies.

Freeze12 is 80-90% R134a with additives (butane I think) to help carry the mineral oil used for R12. I'm not fond of any blend refrigerants as the blend can leak at different rates which can knock off the ratios that help carry the oil. They also can't be topped up for the same reason.

I still have some R12 and the last time I used it was on a W126
 
When my sensor went, I paid £65 for them to drain the system, fit the sensor I supplied, then refill.
I did remove the covers from underneath before I took it, to make life a little easier for them.
I was hoping for anything less than £80, so I was happy at £65.
 
When my sensor went, I paid £65 for them to drain the system, fit the sensor I supplied, then refill.
I did remove the covers from underneath before I took it, to make life a little easier for them.
I was hoping for anything less than £80, so I was happy at £65.
Many thanks, that was v helpful
Where and how did you source the sensor? I find getting MB parts, specially the little ones, v difficult
I won't be able to remove the covers, do you think a regular ac mechanic would be able to do that? Or would it have to be a specialist MB one?
Lastly, you mention them draining the system and refilling, all in one sentence
I thought they would drain it for a charge and then refill it for a charge ? Double whammy
Or do they sort of store it in some
tank and then just refill, after fixing the sensor?
 
Oh , I DID check Halfords website before posting ; they only list R134a on there and it is currently £62 , including deposit , so if you return an empty , you will pay £52 , or less if you have a trade card .
My local Halfords today is £73 , with empty bottle return £ 63 . But 'Hey Ho' . Back to the OP who seems to be ploughing his own furrow despite our advice.
 
Just checked with KF, they confirmed that they emptied the tank, my bad or presuming they left me with 60 quid worth of refrigrant, doh

'After the refill and despite no leaks, the sensor still showed up as empty. So they emptied the refrigerant'

So one less hassle for me. Will start from scratch, got to meet with the ac tech this week
 
Thanks, everyone
Learnt a lot about the car ac system..

Update: Took it to the local garage, helpful mechanic. Explained the above ' Despite being full, sensors showed up as empty'
They did their own diagnostics, then received a call that the 'Pressure switch' ( I presume it's the same as sensor) is faulty. Would cost me 55 quid besides labour + diagnostics and I said go ahead. 2 hours later got a call that the car is ready- Total amount 270 and the car blows ice cold air, while I wore a jacket, in this chilly weather!
Someone did advise that at the least, it would take 200+ to get cool air back through the vent. I guess the 70 was for the refrigerant

He did add that they also put in a little dye. Which may be visible, if there's a leak in the future. Didn't explain how or what to look for but amazon has quite a few uv light checkers? Worth a shot?

Rest is the same, drove back with the heater on!!

Thanks to everyone who wrote back, very helpful. Hope this refrigerant keeps blowing cold air for the next 10 years or so.
 
Thanks, everyone
Learnt a lot about the car ac system..

Update: Took it to the local garage, helpful mechanic. Explained the above ' Despite being full, sensors showed up as empty'
They did their own diagnostics, then received a call that the 'Pressure switch' ( I presume it's the same as sensor) is faulty. Would cost me 55 quid besides labour + diagnostics and I said go ahead. 2 hours later got a call that the car is ready- Total amount 270 and the car blows ice cold air, while I wore a jacket, in this chilly weather!
Someone did advise that at the least, it would take 200+ to get cool air back through the vent. I guess the 70 was for the refrigerant

He did add that they also put in a little dye. Which may be visible, if there's a leak in the future. Didn't explain how or what to look for but amazon has quite a few uv light checkers? Worth a shot?

Rest is the same, drove back with the heater on!!

Thanks to everyone who wrote back, very helpful. Hope this refrigerant keeps blowing cold air for the next 10 years or so.
Sounds like a result, I hope it works fine for you. If it does fail again then checking for the leak using UV will be useful. If the leak is from inside the car (evaporator), that will be probably be a rather more expensive (dashboard out) repair. Good luck :thumb:
 
Sounds like a result, I hope it works fine for you. If it does fail again then checking for the leak using UV will be useful. If the leak is from inside the car (evaporator), that will be probably be a rather more expensive (dashboard out) repair. Good luck :thumb:
If it does fail, how long should I wait to check this uv light? It could be a very slow leak or a quick one?
seen loads of uv lights /torches on amazon.. for eg this one

V 365nm Torch USB Magnet Rechargeable Flashlight Wood's Lamp LED Ultraviolet Blacklight, Detector for Pet Ringworm Cat Urine Stains,​

 
If it does fail, how long should I wait to check this uv light? It could be a very slow leak or a quick one?
seen loads of uv lights /torches on amazon.. for eg this one

V 365nm Torch USB Magnet Rechargeable Flashlight Wood's Lamp LED Ultraviolet Blacklight, Detector for Pet Ringworm Cat Urine Stains,​

I would run it for a week or two and then even if it's working get someone to have a quick look over the system with a UV lamp to check for leaks. It's also possible to put a 'sniffer' into the area around the dash to check for leaks that wouldn't otherwise be visible, though this only works whilst there is gas in the system that can leak and therefor be detected.

I don't know of the lamp you've posted will cause the dye in your system to show up or not.
 
If it does fail, how long should I wait to check this uv light? It could be a very slow leak or a quick one?
seen loads of uv lights /torches on amazon.. for eg this one

V 365nm Torch USB Magnet Rechargeable Flashlight Wood's Lamp LED Ultraviolet Blacklight, Detector for Pet Ringworm Cat Urine Stains,​

You can check for leaks anytime, best to clean down the engine bay so that you are not looking at dye from a previous leak : you can use a pressure washer if you have one , or the jet wash at the petrol station . Just be careful not to blast high pressure water into electrical components , but give mechanical parts a good clean down , ideally using the detergent cycle first and then a rinse with clean water , if possible not at high pressure .

If a local garage has a steam cleaner - that would do an even better job of cleaning the engine bay - but use of these devices has to be done with care as it can not only get into electrics but can also wash away lubricants from places like throttle linkages which would then need lubricating again .

After you have cleaned the engine bay , then use your UV light to check for dye which will show up under UV - easier to check after dark . Then run the car for a few weeks and check again for any signs of dye that were not there after cleaning the engine bay .
 
Thanks, everyone
Learnt a lot about the car ac system..

Update: Took it to the local garage, helpful mechanic. Explained the above ' Despite being full, sensors showed up as empty'
They did their own diagnostics, then received a call that the 'Pressure switch' ( I presume it's the same as sensor) is faulty. Would cost me 55 quid besides labour + diagnostics and I said go ahead. 2 hours later got a call that the car is ready- Total amount 270 and the car blows ice cold air, while I wore a jacket, in this chilly weather!
Someone did advise that at the least, it would take 200+ to get cool air back through the vent. I guess the 70 was for the refrigerant

He did add that they also put in a little dye. Which may be visible, if there's a leak in the future. Didn't explain how or what to look for but amazon has quite a few uv light checkers? Worth a shot?

Rest is the same, drove back with the heater on!!

Thanks to everyone who wrote back, very helpful. Hope this refrigerant keeps blowing cold air for the next 10 years or so.
It is a bit ambitious to expect a recharge to last for 10 years ; I’d generally put my gauge on in the spring and check the pressure before each summer . A healthy system will lose a small amount of gas each year - this is normal - with a top up being required after two or three years . Some of my older cars needed a top up annually , just due to wear in the seals , but as long as it lasted me a year I was always happy just to top up .
 
I would run it for a week or two and then even if it's working get someone to have a quick look over the system with a UV lamp to check for leaks. It's also possible to put a 'sniffer' into the area around the dash to check for leaks that wouldn't otherwise be visible, though this only works whilst there is gas in the system that can leak and therefor be detected.

I don't know of the lamp you've posted will cause the dye in your system to show up or not.
Sniffer test is a good shout, it'll find leaks that are hidden from sight or at least act as a guide to the location.
 
It is a bit ambitious to expect a recharge to last for 10 years ; I’d generally put my gauge on in the spring and check the pressure before each summer . A healthy system will lose a small amount of gas each year - this is normal - with a top up being required after two or three years . Some of my older cars needed a top up annually , just due to wear in the seals , but as long as it lasted me a year I was always happy just to top up .
The wifes B200 W246 is a 2012 model, we have had it over 5 years, as far as I know its never had a recharge and it still blows ice cold.
My E250 on the other hand is a 2014 model and the aircon is at best tepid, and well overdue a service.
 
There’s a hole in my condenser dear Liza, dear Liza
A hole in my condenser dear Liza my dear!

Our A/C stopped working, booked into our local MB dealership for a diagnostic and they found a hole in the condenser straight away so no charge for the diagnostic, eye watering repair cost though but it has to be fixed so waiting on parts arrival and will be booked in to get it done 😕
 
Good to know they found the fault . Not sure I would have the work done by a Mercedes Benz main dealer myself , main thing is it will be one in time for summer. Let us know how it goes :thumb:
 
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