Any advice before I attempt this?

[edthebad]

I've found this link http://www.niallbrady.com/mycar/c220/fixkey.html detailing how to fix a broken remote for my 1995 W202 C180 (working fine but I dropped it last night and now it'll start but won't lock) My question is this: Before shelling out a fifth of the price of the car on a new fob it's got to be worth a try but if I muck it up, so long as I can put it back together in whatever way, will the car still start? I don't want to be stranded. Does the reprogramming procedure program the central locking or is the ability to start the car also dependent on that procedure? I'd rather have a car that doesn't remote lock rather than one that doesn't start.

Thanks

Ed

 

[bennesspipers]

Unless you are used to soldering electronic parts, i wouldnt advise you teach yourself on a key fob,tricky to get apart,let alone mend. W202 key fobs are not one of MB's success stories.

 

[edthebad]

I know what you mean but it's broken at the moment and if I screw up it'll be broken afterwards. I just need to know whether It'll still start the car if the fob is attached to the key.

 

[grober]

The main problem you may have is splitting the casing in 2. Some come apart easily some do not. At that age of car there is no inbuilt ignition "key recognition chip " as part of the security system. All the remote does is to activate the remote locking/unlocking of the car. There is an immobiliser circuit which is activated from the central locking locking module but provided that is not activated by the remote the engine will start AFAIK

 

[edthebad]

Roll on day off on Saturday, and I'll put it to the test and let you know. Thanks

 

[nigel cross]

If you have experience withe circuit boards, you will be wasting your time.
The soldering iron that you require is a temperature controlled soldering station, which if you haven't got one will set you back at least £40 from Maplins etc.
Basically all cheap iron will be too hot and will bugger up the chips on the circuit board.
Sorry to be the bringer of bad news.
I hope you prove me wrong

 

[grober]

Worth atry?

If you have experience withe circuit boards, you will be wasting your time.
The soldering iron that you require is a temperature controlled soldering station, which if you haven't got one will set you back at least £40 from Maplins etc.
Basically all cheap iron will be too hot and will bugger up the chips on the circuit board.
Sorry to be the bringer of bad news.
I hope you prove me wrong

Seems a trifle pessimistic?? Sorted mine with a 25 Watt ANTEX iron £17-99 from Maplins.25W Soldering Iron Type XS : Mains Soldering Irons : Maplin
Mind you I have done a bit of soldering in my time.

 

[pos.k]

Always reminds me of one of my college tutors a (cough) few years ago - "you can either solder like an electronics technician - or like a cow with a musket!".

....Gave up soldering soon after that!!

 

[Stratman]

I've been soldering on and off for over forty years using bog-standard irons and have yet to fry a component.

Yes, I do include chips and surface mount components.

 

[edthebad]

Well I took the plunge and took it apart (wasn't easy and the case doesn't look now like it did before, but sure enough it was the switch, so rather than fry anything I phoned up a tv repair shop near me and he did it for a fiver in about 3 minutes. Job done, what a result. I know everyone advised me to get a new one and bite the bullet but the bullet was going to be £180 and I thought it had to be worth a try. I'd advise anyone to do the same.
Thanks for the advice though. It was the solder temperature post from Nigel Cross that made me think I would use an expert.

 

[Howard]

I'm amazed you had a TV repair shop near you !!

Not seen a proper 'repair' place for years !

Well Done ! :bannana:

 

[grober]

Mmm ---cost of £5 rather than £180=RESULT!:bannana:

 

[Dieselman]

Seems a trifle pessimistic?? Sorted mine with a 25 Watt ANTEX iron £17-99 from Maplins.25W Soldering Iron Type XS : Mains Soldering Irons : Maplin
Mind you I have done a bit of soldering in my time.

I've been soldering on and off for over forty years using bog-standard irons and have yet to fry a component.

Yes, I do include chips and surface mount components.

Well done grober.
Though I'd think a 25W iron is too powerful for minature work isn't it also the case that a hot iron with heat applied quickly stresses components less due to lesser working time transfering less heat to anything but the joint in question.

 

[grober]

The circuitry on these key boards is pretty robust I guess, and the circuit board "pads" the switch mounts on are of a reasonable size. Often a couple of the switch contacts are OK with only one or two detached [ after thousands of "presses"] though I would advocate resoldering them all anyway. Its not as if you are replacing components which is slightly more difficult and often requires the use of a solder sucker removal device to get rid of old solder etc . Draper Solder Sucker - Trueshopping You are right though-- the period of time heat is applied is often the key to minimising potential damaging heat transfer. I find its always a good idea to inspect any PCB repair with a jeweller's loupe/magnifier afterwards JEWELLERS LOUPE/MAGNIFIER EYE GLASS: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools to make sure you haven't bridged any circuits on the PCB in the process!

At the price of a new key its a repair definitely worth trying IMHO.