C class 220 CDi DPF fault

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bazza1410

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Sep 2, 2009
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Hi, I have a 2004 c220 cdi and the engine management light is on constantly putting the car into a safe mode. The fault came up as diesel particulate filter, but I was advised that if the light was reset and I gave it a good hard run it would clear itself. Any ideas as a new filter is roughly a grand, also does anyone know how I can reset the engine light myself without the aid of a diagnostic machine. Any help much appreciated.
 
A star machine is needed to sort your problem out. That is the only diag equipment that will do the job. It has to run through a process to clean the dPF
 
Thanks for your response. Will I need to go through a dealer for this repair and would you have any idea how much it would cost.
 
Have you a fault code number?

I've got a 220CDi and suspected a problem with the DPF.
Had the condition checked on star and it was reported as ASH CONTENT TOO HIGH.
I haven't had any engine management lights on and the car seems to drive normally except for 10-15 minute periods where the mpg drops through the floor.
This happens every 50miles or so and feels like the car is trying to regen the filter.
This ain't supposed to happen that regularly. MB suggest every 1000km or so!
Ash is the residue left after the soot has been burnt off and can't be removed even by a forced star type regen.

My car was repeatedly serviced (byMB) using the wrong oil. ie non low ash oil was used.
That's why my DPF is full of ash after 69000miles. (I purchased it at 67K)
Dealer is replacing it along with the Oxidation catalyst which is in the same canister.
Cost:- £650 plus labour, covered under warranty I imagine as I've only had the car 4 weeks.
Let us know how you get on.
 
How can I ascertain if I've got a DPF fitted. I drive a 2005 (55) C220CDi and have never used low ash oil as I always beleived I don't have a DPF installed. I note that bazza1410 is driving a 2004 model, hence my query.
 
1,Ask mb dealer to check your sa codes for DPF
2,On front of engine on rocker cover there will be a sticker with a oil can sylbol and 229.3or 229.5 printed (you might need to remove engine covers)
3 at the rear of air filter box there will be a senor with two pipes on it if DPF fitted
hope this helps
 
Here we go Again

Here we go again everything is about the blasted STAR machine! Just go and pay someone with a STAR Machine to tell you what you already know! It's the biggest con ever just a money making scheme. I've yet to find a Merc Specialist with the STAR machine who will put his money where his STAR Machine is!

Any half decent fault code reader will help you because it will give a code the code which will tell you in which direction your problem is. No code reader tells you what the fault is for example if you if you unplug your cars MAP sensor any code reader will tell you there's no reading from the MAP sensor so when you go and look you will find the plug is off, this does not mean that the MAP sensor is faulty but it does tell you that the problem is in that direction go and investigate.

In your case you already know it the DPF.

How the DPF works is it catches soot in the filter component of it, then the pressure builds up as the exhaust gases can't escape because of the soot so the pressure sensor on the DPF will tell the ECU it’s time to regenerate which in layman’s terms means time to flush out the soot.

Your car will do this by itself you will notice a increase in fuel consumption for a little while because the EGR will close more fuel will be pumped into the cylinder more air will be pumped by the turbo increasing the working temperature of the exhaust from between 150-250 degrees Celsius (round town temp) to 650 degrees Celsius DPF flush out temp. This process is done automatically and you don’t need to pay anyone with a STAR computer to do it.

Now the Problem

If your car has been poorly serviced for example poor oil, poor fuel, irregular service intervals and just sheer neglect then the ECU will do its best to flush the DPF but with poor results, this will cause excessive Caking of the Filter so even at 650 degrees Celsius it won’t budge the soot. So your car will go into a cycle of flushing the DPF which will cause really poor fuel economy.

So what I suggest is a full engine service with a really good engine flush and really high quality oil which dislodges sludge from inside the engine. Then try using high quality fuel (after changing the fuel filter) replace the Oxygen sensor and if need be replace the DFP sensor so they can give an accurate reading to your cars ECU.

Then remove the DPF soak it in Thinner just any standard thinner from a motor factor make sure that the filter is totally submerged weigh it down if need be so that the filter gets soaked and leave it over night so it soaks well (Be Very Careful Thinner is Very Flammable)

The next day drain it out you will see the thinner will have gone black with the soot, Keep flushing it and till you think most of the soot has gone, then pressure wash it using a high pressure car washer then using a high pressure line blow air through it.

Once you are convinced it’s clean as you can get it, refit it to the car.

After I had done this to my car I could not believe the difference I didn’t even have to reset the fault codes they all went off and the car was driving smooth turbo cutting in and out MPG averaging 37 local and 55 on the motorway.

Star Machine MY **** just good regular maintenance and a bit of common sence.

Good Luck with yours
 
Last edited:
Dpf

I had the ecu come on. Plug it in and it indicated a regeneration was needed. Prior to plugging it in to a snap on diagnostic I phoned up various mechanics to see if I could just take it for a long run for a regen. They all said no and I needed to bring it in. I didn't take their word for it so I took it out twice for a long 20 min drive. On the 2nd attempt I kept it in 4th and the revs between 2500 and 3000 and the eco system off. I switched off the engine and started it the next day. The ecu still came on but when I started it again in the afternoon the ecu light was cleared. I expect that the 2nd run carried out the regen. So if anyone has a dpf error code before taking it in for an expensive forced regen take it for a long run keeping to the above parameters
 
Here we go Again

Here we go again everything is about the blasted STAR machine! Just go and pay someone with a STAR Machine to tell you what you already know! It's the biggest con ever just a money making scheme. I've yet to find a Merc Specialist with the STAR machine who will put his money where his STAR Machine is!

Any half decent fault code reader will help you because it will give a code the code which will tell you in which direction your problem is. No code reader tells you what the fault is for example if you if you unplug your cars MAP sensor any code reader will tell you there's no reading from the MAP sensor so when you go and look you will find the plug is off, this does not mean that the MAP sensor is faulty but it does tell you that the problem is in that direction go and investigate.

In your case you already know it the DPF.

How the DPF works is it catches soot in the filter component of it, then the pressure builds up as the exhaust gases can't escape because of the soot so the pressure sensor on the DPF will tell the ECU it’s time to regenerate which in layman’s terms means time to flush out the soot.

Your car will do this by itself you will notice a increase in fuel consumption for a little while because the EGR will close more fuel will be pumped into the cylinder more air will be pumped by the turbo increasing the working temperature of the exhaust from between 150-250 degrees Celsius (round town temp) to 650 degrees Celsius DPF flush out temp. This process is done automatically and you don’t need to pay anyone with a STAR computer to do it.

Now the Problem

If your car has been poorly serviced for example poor oil, poor fuel, irregular service intervals and just sheer neglect then the ECU will do its best to flush the DPF but with poor results, this will cause excessive Caking of the Filter so even at 650 degrees Celsius it won’t budge the soot. So your car will go into a cycle of flushing the DPF which will cause really poor fuel economy.

So what I suggest is a full engine service with a really good engine flush and really high quality oil which dislodges sludge from inside the engine. Then try using high quality fuel (after changing the fuel filter) replace the Oxygen sensor and if need be replace the DFP sensor so they can give an accurate reading to your cars ECU.

Then remove the DPF soak it in Thinner just any standard thinner from a motor factor make sure that the filter is totally submerged weigh it down if need be so that the filter gets soaked and leave it over night so it soaks well (Be Very Careful Thinner is Very Flammable)

The next day drain it out you will see the thinner will have gone black with the soot, Keep flushing it and till you think most of the soot has gone, then pressure wash it using a high pressure car washer then using a high pressure line blow air through it.

Once you are convinced it’s clean as you can get it, refit it to the car.

After I had done this to my car I could not believe the difference I didn’t even have to reset the fault codes they all went off and the car was driving smooth turbo cutting in and out MPG averaging 37 local and 55 on the motorway.

Star Machine MY **** just good regular maintenance and a bit of common sence.

Good Luck with yours


Thank you so much for the advise provided. Makes absolute sense. I have a C250 CDI and will now do as you've advised. Is it easy to get access to the DPF filter and sensor (any special tools required). Any advise on the process to remove the DPF and sensor. Much appreciated. Kind Regards.
 
Dpf

I had the ecu come on. Plug it in and it indicated a regeneration was needed. Prior to plugging it in to a snap on diagnostic I phoned up various mechanics to see if I could just take it for a long run for a regen. They all said no and I needed to bring it in. I didn't take their word for it so I took it out twice for a long 20 min drive. On the 2nd attempt I kept it in 4th and the revs between 2500 and 3000 and the eco system off. I switched off the engine and started it the next day. The ecu still came on but when I started it again in the afternoon the ecu light was cleared. I expect that the 2nd run carried out the regen. So if anyone has a dpf error code before taking it in for an expensive forced regen take it for a long run keeping to the above parameters
But as @htavs has said the so called forced Regen is no different from the Car based regen. The key issue is that the pressure sensor in the DPF has trigger saying it basically needs a cleaning cycle. The service light simply indicates that none of the Car attempts have been able to burn off the soot. So getting the engine running hot , for example 4th gear 2500-3000 will raise the engine temp, with a good run it will hopefully solve your issue.

Failing that getting the DPF cleaned enough that there is no back pressure and keep the engine running cleanly from there on.
 
You need the codes read to start with which can be done by most readers including ones you can buy for £5 and connect to your phone. It may well be the DPF is full which is a consequence of another fault, so you don't know what the problem is necessarily contrary to above.

If the underlying fault is not fixed then neither a normal or forced regen will be possible, even under STAR in some cases. Get it diagnosed, fix the problem and see if a forced regen is possible or an Italian tune up (thrash down the motorway) may be do-able.
 

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