C Class W204 Lost 2nd Gear and Reverse (Manual Transmission)

[Raalph]

Hi guys.
I’ve got same problem with mine Infiniti Q50 same engine 2.2 manual
After few months I’ve found mechanic which already knew what’s happens. Gear selector cardinal
Spring snapped of and rod drops down so no chance to move gear stick far left.
Cost of repair around 1k supply and fit
Cheers

 

[HITECH]

Hi guys.
I’ve got same problem with mine Infiniti Q50 same engine 2.2 manual
After few months I’ve found mechanic which already knew what’s happens. Gear selector cardinal
Spring snapped of and rod drops down so no chance to move gear stick far left.
Cost of repair around 1k supply and fit
Cheers

You do know that the repair kit required for this fix is on back orders. In other words there arent any more being made. Whoever has them on a shelf they are gold dust to find. Everyone I know who has had their gearbox repaired either with the repair kit or temp fixes have experienced further serious issues down the line. Buy a 2nd hand gearbox, anything AFTER 2013 and you will have peace of mind.

 

[Surgi]

Exactly what happened with mine gearbox. Cost around 1 k, including clutch disck change. They had to take the gearbox twice, as at first time they didn't set up neutral position Sensor right way. Sounds bit dodgy (

 

[Grahamc250]

You do know that the repair kit required for this fix is on back orders. In other words there arent any more being made. Whoever has them on a shelf they are gold dust to find. Everyone I know who has had their gearbox repaired either with the repair kit or temp fixes have experienced further serious issues down the line. Buy a 2nd hand gearbox, anything AFTER 2013 and you will have peace of mind.

Hi all looks like I’m likely joining the failed gearbox gang I have a manual w204 (2012) with no way of selecting reverse at all! Second gear was fine driving back from dropping the boy off at nursery. But on moving the car next day second gear became stiff altho it does select when engine on and off but still sticky/stiff. I’m assuming this is a likely the fork breaking issue inside the gearbox. Before I continue I’m the least clued up person from reading this thread so apologies if I come across as thick haha. So my questions are if anyone can help with is… firstly I’m assuming gearboxes after 2013 are less prone to this failure or better than previous years hence recommending to find a second hand of this year but in doing so how would you go about this? I was thinking you would have to replace with the exact gearbox number to save issues but in changing year of gearbox is that going to make that impossible or would any past 2013 gearbox be ok regardless as it’s a swop out job?
I had a quote from a transmission specialists saying it’s likely the fork snapped so to have mine stripped repaired reinstated and new clutch/flywheel I’d be looking at £2300. I’m going to guess that the repair will be a make shift part as the spring is non existent (gold dust) What actually is the part number for the spring that’s required? If changing for a 2013+ gearbox would you then need to buy a gear selector if that year to suit?
Once again sorry for the questions some maybe stupid but Iv never dealt with a transmission issue or how it all works
Thanks guys

 

[HITECH]

1st thing to do is post your VIN number here. The actual gearbox part number is 711653. There is only one difference in newer and older ones. Older dont have stop/start. Newer boxes have stop/start. As long as your replacement has stop start then good to go. If a 711653 gearbox has been removed from a written off high mileage car then pretty much it will be a good to go box. The replacement gearbox oil will be drained and new put in which pretty much means your 2nd hand box will be well lubricated and protected. I have found the problem is when the gearbox oil turns to almost water and is not changed by at least 50000/60000mls it is then useless and the shaft that reverse and 2nd gear sit on inside the gearbox corrodes. The fork & spring then literally breaks off.
Buy a box WITH stop/start, request to get the gearbox lever assembly and gearstick with it. Most will just include it for you. Reason is all the plastics and gubbings that the gear stick sits in will all be broken and mashed up.
If you cant get gear stick and fittings with it, its not too much of a biggie. Just means there will be a small bit of play on your gear stick movement. Makes no difference on gear change/selector as the 2 gear selector mounting rods that fit into gearbox are pinned in anyway. Give this guy a phone and see what they got. He already knows about this fault with them gearboxes and can get One matched up for you. Worth looking on ebay too see what prices are about. Only thing you make sure is IT HAS STOP/START (im assuming your box has stop/start). If it doesnt then a replacement 2nd hand box will be slightly cheaper.

Mike Caffery
Prestige Allparts Ltd (Mercedes Benz Specialists)
Mossdown Road
Royton
Oldham
OL2 6HS
Tel: 01706 849 892
WhatsApp: 07483 160683
Email: [email protected]

Hi all looks like I’m likely joining the failed gearbox gang I have a manual w204 (2012) with no way of selecting reverse at all! Second gear was fine driving back from dropping the boy off at nursery. But on moving the car next day second gear became stiff altho it does select when engine on and off but still sticky/stiff. I’m assuming this is a likely the fork breaking issue inside the gearbox. Before I continue I’m the least clued up person from reading this thread so apologies if I come across as thick haha. So my questions are if anyone can help with is… firstly I’m assuming gearboxes after 2013 are less prone to this failure or better than previous years hence recommending to find a second hand of this year but in doing so how would you go about this? I was thinking you would have to replace with the exact gearbox number to save issues but in changing year of gearbox is that going to make that impossible or would any past 2013 gearbox be ok regardless as it’s a swop out job?
I had a quote from a transmission specialists saying it’s likely the fork snapped so to have mine stripped repaired reinstated and new clutch/flywheel I’d be looking at £2300. I’m going to guess that the repair will be a make shift part as the spring is non existent (gold dust) What actually is the part number for the spring that’s required? If changing for a 2013+ gearbox would you then need to buy a gear selector if that year to suit?
Once again sorry for the questions some maybe stupid but Iv never dealt with a transmission issue or how it all works
Thanks guys

 

[HITECH]

Here is a replacement gearbox WITH START/STOP.
Shop about but defo give prestige a phone. They will usually price match / discount. Keep driving the car meantime. Keep it mobile and just plan your journeys, parking etc so you can always drive forward from parking with no need to turn or reverse. Just keeps the car from developing other faults sitting un-used WHICH mercedes cars do if left sitting for any length of time.

Hi all looks like I’m likely joining the failed gearbox gang I have a manual w204 (2012) with no way of selecting reverse at all! Second gear was fine driving back from dropping the boy off at nursery. But on moving the car next day second gear became stiff altho it does select when engine on and off but still sticky/stiff. I’m assuming this is a likely the fork breaking issue inside the gearbox. Before I continue I’m the least clued up person from reading this thread so apologies if I come across as thick haha. So my questions are if anyone can help with is… firstly I’m assuming gearboxes after 2013 are less prone to this failure or better than previous years hence recommending to find a second hand of this year but in doing so how would you go about this? I was thinking you would have to replace with the exact gearbox number to save issues but in changing year of gearbox is that going to make that impossible or would any past 2013 gearbox be ok regardless as it’s a swop out job?
I had a quote from a transmission specialists saying it’s likely the fork snapped so to have mine stripped repaired reinstated and new clutch/flywheel I’d be looking at £2300. I’m going to guess that the repair will be a make shift part as the spring is non existent (gold dust) What actually is the part number for the spring that’s required? If changing for a 2013+ gearbox would you then need to buy a gear selector if that year to suit?
Once again sorry for the questions some maybe stupid but Iv never dealt with a transmission issue or how it all works
Thanks guys

 

[HITECH]

Here is a replacement gearbox WITH START/STOP.
Shop about but defo give prestige a phone. They will usually price match / discount. Keep driving the car meantime. Keep it mobile and just plan your journeys, parking etc so you can always drive forward from parking with no need to turn or reverse. Just keeps the car from developing other faults sitting un-used WHICH mercedes cars do if left sitting for any length of time.

Manual Gearbox Mercedes W204 S204 6 Speed 711653 A2122608000 WARRANTY | eBay

Part no:A2122608000. Gearbox was checked before taking it out and has been drained of fluid for safety purposes. It is is in full working order. It is also possible to collect the item from UK warehouse.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Grahamc250]

Manual Gearbox Mercedes W204 S204 6 Speed 711653 A2122608000 WARRANTY | eBay

Part no:A2122608000. Gearbox was checked before taking it out and has been drained of fluid for safety purposes. It is is in full working order. It is also possible to collect the item from UK warehouse.

www.ebay.co.uk

Hi hitech

Appreciate the recommendations/help
I have given Mike from prestige a call today and have a delivered price of £648 for the gearbox itself with 3 months warranty . I did mention the selector part and shift but he said he can supply that if required but have mine checked. Also been in contact with a transmission specialist in gravesend Kent who can recondition the entire gearbox and fit a new clutch/flywheel and guarantee for 12 months at a cost of £2300. In just awaiting to hear back from my indie I use to how much he would charge to fit the gearbox with the new oil and new clutch flywheel. Regardless I’m going to have to make an only fans account grease up and pose with the transmission or something to pay for this

 

[HITECH]

Just for the record. I did not replace the clutch in my own when I replaced the gearbox. Yes its easy to replace when the gearbox is off. But it really is false economy. Dont fix what aint broke and if you clutch is good right now and below 120000 miles why do you want to spend another £300-£500 on a new clutch & the labour cost they will include separately from gearbox labour. The gearstick plastics and seating arent a biggie. I’ll show you a link to sone later. STEER CLEAR from paying for any gearbox re-furb as these gearboxes were never meant to be opened or re-furbed. A re-furb will never get even close to the manufactured specs from new and it will give further problems. My advice to you and others is buy 2nd hand box. Never pay for a refurb. These parts ARE NOT AVAILABLE. Tig welding is only ever a temp fix and other parts of the gear box intervals are also damaged and corroded.

Hi hitech

Appreciate the recommendations/help
I have given Mike from prestige a call today and have a delivered price of £648 for the gearbox itself with 3 months warranty . I did mention the selector part and shift but he said he can supply that if required but have mine checked. Also been in contact with a transmission specialist in gravesend Kent who can recondition the entire gearbox and fit a new clutch/flywheel and guarantee for 12 months at a cost of £2300. In just awaiting to hear back from my indie I use to how much he would charge to fit the gearbox with the new oil and new clutch flywheel. Regardless I’m going to have to make an only fans account grease up and pose with the transmission or something to pay for this

 

[Grahamc250]

Just for the record. I did not replace the clutch in my own when I replaced the gearbox. Yes its easy to replace when the gearbox is off. But it really is false economy. Dont fix what aint broke and if you clutch is good right now and below 120000 miles why do you want to spend another £300-£500 on a new clutch & the labour cost they will include separately from gearbox labour. The gearstick plastics and seating arent a biggie. I’ll show you a link to sone later. STEER CLEAR from paying for any gearbox re-furb as these gearboxes were never meant to be opened or re-furbed. A re-furb will never get even close to the manufactured specs from new and it will give further problems. My advice to you and others is buy 2nd hand box. Never pay for a refurb. These parts ARE NOT AVAILABLE. Tig welding is only ever a temp fix and other parts of the gear box intervals are also damaged and corroded.

I will deffo look to buy a 2nd hand gearbox if that’s what’s required based on the knowledge/experience you have had. Today tho I thought I’d give the car a quick run around the block as recommended. I don’t really use the car on a daily basis to be honest anyway some weeks it moves once or twice and I think in the 7 years iv owned it iv only cover led 35000 myself (it’s only just done 80000) but anyway thought I would just spin it about and I can actually engage 2nd without an issue. What seems to be happening is the gearstick seems to pick up a gap between 1st and 2nd where you would push left to find reverse but if careful enough and being straight down it goes in perfectly fine. Which hopefully is a positive?? I am hopeful that it could be something to do with this part that’s failed as you say it’s a plastic seating correct? How hard is that gearstick part to get to and take out to see if it’s mashed up without causing chaos ??

 

[HITECH]

I will deffo look to buy a 2nd hand gearbox if that’s what’s required based on the knowledge/experience you have had. Today tho I thought I’d give the car a quick run around the block as recommended. I don’t really use the car on a daily basis to be honest anyway some weeks it moves once or twice and I think in the 7 years iv owned it iv only cover led 35000 myself (it’s only just done 80000) but anyway thought I would just spin it about and I can actually engage 2nd without an issue. What seems to be happening is the gearstick seems to pick up a gap between 1st and 2nd where you would push left to find reverse but if careful enough and being straight down it goes in perfectly fine. Which hopefully is a positive?? I am hopeful that it could be something to do with this part that’s failed as you say it’s a plastic seating correct? How hard is that gearstick part to get to and take out to see if it’s mashed up without causing chaos ??

Its an easy job to remove centre bit and gearstick. If your still able to select gears then it would seem its more a clutch problem. A clutch problem more so if its difficult to get into certain gears ide say

 

[Grahamc250]

Its an easy job to remove centre bit and gearstick. If your still able to select gears then it would seem its more a clutch problem. A clutch problem more so if its difficult to get into certain gears ide say

Clutch feels normal on the pedal doesn’t seem spongey or any different doesn’t show signs of slipping. Goes into gears 1 3 4 5 6 as normal but it’s the direction of travel down from first to 2nd that is gives the impression that when applying slight left and down pressure to select 2nd that it finds the gate for reverse but obviously doesn’t go no further left or up. I would have thought if it was clutch related i wouldn’t be able to select gears? So I have a hopeful feeling that it’s that selector part and nothing to do with either clutch or gearbox it’s not going into the garage until a week and half time but was hoping id get some advice from fellow owners and maybe even try a few things myself meanwhile

 

[HITECH]

It wont be external selectors. There are 2 selectors both pinned in. They are sturdy very solid and also covered. If they were to fail or de-tach then you would get no gears. Because you said your clutch pedal went to the floor once. Was that said in this thread or Did I misread). Ide look at clutch pressure, fluid etc. check brake fluid level.
But going by the year of your car I would say gearbox most likely about to pop gears. 2nd & reverse are on the same internal shaft inside the gearbox. Be very careful with your garage investigations because you dont want to end up replacing everything it isnt. Any kind of diagnostic scan is useless and will come up with nothing as this is a mechanical issue so dont waste your money on any kind of diagnostic.

 

[Grahamc250]

It wont be external selectors. There are 2 selectors both pinned in. They are sturdy very solid and also covered. If they were to fail or de-tach then you would get no gears. Because you said your clutch pedal went to the floor once. Was that said in this thread or Did I misread). Ide look at clutch pressure, fluid etc. check brake fluid level.
But going by the year of your car I would say gearbox most likely about to pop gears. 2nd & reverse are on the same internal shaft inside the gearbox. Be very careful with your garage investigations because you dont want to end up replacing everything it isnt. Any kind of diagnostic scan is useless and will come up with nothing as this is a mechanical issue so dont waste your money on any kind of diagnostic.

Must be a different thread matey. Clutch is fine from my knowledge no slipping feels normal under foot able to select all gears but reverse but feels like the gateway to reverse is slightly open hense why I thought I couldn’t get second gear but I can if I don’t apply pressure left like your normal routine action going from first to second. I have read that there is a lockout ring preventing you from accidentally selecting the reverse. I wouldn’t have a clue what that looks like either but seems strange how it’s only the reverse gear I can’t get the shifter upto and the gateway to reverse feels open

 

[HITECH]

Must be a different thread matey. Clutch is fine from my knowledge no slipping feels normal under foot able to select all gears but reverse but feels like the gateway to reverse is slightly open hense why I thought I couldn’t get second gear but I can if I don’t apply pressure left like your normal routine action going from first to second. I have read that there is a lockout ring preventing you from accidentally selecting the reverse. I wouldn’t have a clue what that looks like either but seems strange how it’s only the reverse gear I can’t get the shifter upto and the gateway to reverse feels open

All faults causing any kind of gear selection is nothing to do with the 2 rod assembly rods going to the gearbox because like I said. They are ridged and pinned to the gearbox. They are not similar to old style gear selectors or even like new ones on other cars. If your sure your clutch is ok and fluid is ok then its almost definetely gearbox. My only suggestion is replace gearbox oil and hope for the best. Other than that gearbox replacement. At least you done all your homework for the worst outcome. If garage does not visibly see anything wrong or broken externally then its the internals in the gearbox. Crossing my fingers for you for a simple fix.
To physically see or access the end of the gearbox you need to drop the propshaft off bend it out the way and drop the gearbox slightly WHILST still attached then you can almost see the 2 rods attached to gearbox enough to see if anything broken which i doubt there will be.

 

[Grahamc250]

All faults causing any kind of gear selection is nothing to do with the 2 rod assembly rods going to the gearbox because like I said. They are ridged and pinned to the gearbox. They are not similar to old style gear selectors or even like new ones on other cars. If your sure your clutch is ok and fluid is ok then its almost definetely gearbox. My only suggestion is replace gearbox oil and hope for the best. Other than that gearbox replacement. At least you done all your homework for the worst outcome. If garage does not visibly see anything wrong or broken externally then its the internals in the gearbox. Crossing my fingers for you for a simple fix.
To physically see or access the end of the gearbox you need to drop the propshaft off bend it out the way and drop the gearbox slightly WHILST still attached then you can almost see the 2 rods attached to gearbox enough to see if anything broken which i doubt there will be.

Thanks for help appreciate it will update when it’s all done

 

[HITECH]

Thanks for help appreciate it will update when it’s all done

MERCEDES C Class W204 2012 C220 Diesel 6 Speed Manual Gear Selector A2042672024 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for MERCEDES C Class W204 2012 C220 Diesel 6 Speed Manual Gear Selector A2042672024 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

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wont be your problem tho......

 

[Grahamc250]

MERCEDES C Class W204 2012 C220 Diesel 6 Speed Manual Gear Selector A2042672024 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for MERCEDES C Class W204 2012 C220 Diesel 6 Speed Manual Gear Selector A2042672024 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

wont be your problem tho….

In my heart I hope your wrong in my head I think your right. Just don’t see why I have gears 1 to 6 as normal but the gearstick can slip into the gateway/route to reverse when trying to move to second and can’t get the gearstick to move up to reverse as if something has broken and blocking that movement in the casing that iv circled in the photo. I’m assuming that housing comes off as looks like it’s clipped either side to reveal the bottom of the gearstick is there no possibility of obstruction in that? I was going to look into that today but realised I was to fat to get under the car so just washed it instead

 

[HITECH]

In my heart I hope your wrong in my head I think your right. Just don’t see why I have gears 1 to 6 as normal but the gearstick can slip into the gateway/route to reverse when trying to move to second and can’t get the gearstick to move up to reverse as if something has broken and blocking that movement in the casing that iv circled in the photo. I’m assuming that housing comes off as looks like it’s clipped either side to reveal the bottom of the gearstick is there no possibility of obstruction in that? I was going to look into that today but realised I was to fat to get under the car so just washed it instead

As I said before.These 2 rigid metal gear selector rods that go from the gearstick to the gearbox. They are absolutely solid. Ive been down this road before with my own and a few of them with this gearbox problem and it will never be the gear selector. for mechanics/garages that have not come across this kind of setup they will try the usual. Replace the gear selector from gear stick to gearbox. My advice i strongly advise not to pay for this to get done because it will NOT fix the fault which i am quite sure your gearbox internals are broken. I know its not what you want to hear but if i am brutally honest and say it like it is then you might just go straight to collect 200 quid pass go and get a gearbox n get it replaced rather than wish n hope that it MIGHT NOT BE THE GEARBOX dont pass go, go straight to jail pay for stuff that isnt going to fix it n it costs you money , hope and time as the days,weeks,months go on.....

 

[Grahamc250]

As I said before.These 2 rigid metal gear selector rods that go from the gearstick to the gearbox. They are absolutely solid. Ive been down this road before with my own and a few of them with this gearbox problem and it will never be the gear selector. for mechanics/garages that have not come across this kind of setup they will try the usual. Replace the gear selector from gear stick to gearbox. My advice i strongly advise not to pay for this to get done because it will NOT fix the fault which i am quite sure your gearbox internals are broken. I know its not what you want to hear but if i am brutally honest and say it like it is then you might just go straight to collect 200 quid pass go and get a gearbox n get it replaced rather than wish n hope that it MIGHT NOT BE THE GEARBOX dont pass go, go straight to jail pay for stuff that isnt going to fix it n it costs you money , hope and time as the days,weeks,months go on.....

Quick update for those who find themselves reading the post.
I Got the gearbox from the recommendation ( prestigeallparts) they were reassuring and had the correct gearbox for the car (which was for my car model 711670) worth the recomendation and would use again obviously early days but I’m sure the gearbox will surpass the guarantee . (Thanks hi-tech) the gearbox was Priced lower than most places £780. Ended up having the engine mounts clutch and flywheel all renewed in the process as there was excessive play in the flywheel and mounts were worn.. all possible reasons why gearbox may have failed supposedly but got the car back yesterday with a nice £3000 all in bill but needs must. Question I have tho is, is the temperature sensor for the cat in the way of carrying out a gearbox change as I picked the car up from the garage and engine light was on put it on star and they said it has a short circuit to positive …I’m paying for a sensor but not entirely sure why this would come out a garage with this issue when it went in with no sensor issue so wondering if this has likely been caught/damaged ?