punjabi
Active Member
300TE - under the rear seat, the central locking pump has a black connector where the vacuum tubes fit, any idea how to disconnect this from he pump body without breaking the tubes?
Central locking pump disconnect!
- Thread starter punjabi
- Start date
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- Tags
- central disconnect locking pump
television
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
2 ways.
1) warm up the pipe with a warm air gun
2) cut it off close to the pump, then cut off the piece of pipe.
Warm up the pipe to refit, not too hot
OP
OP
punjabi
Active Member
I want the pipes to remain intact - just the pipe connector unit to be removed from pump in order I can replace the pump and re-connect the unit.
television
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
Sorry I will pass then on this. My stock 126 pump only has a push on pipe.
nick mercedes
MB Enthusiast
If it's like the later one with the valve block, you prise open the catch in the middle to release the block.
OP
OP
punjabi
Active Member
This is the photo of the pump with the plastic block where the yellow pipe tips are visible - how do you "prise open" the block from the pump!?!
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nick mercedes
MB Enthusiast
That valve block with all the yellow pipes plugged into it comes off.
There's a clip on it you need to prise open, and then it comes off.
television
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
I use a piece of tube with a slot alon the lenght so that ut goes over the pipe and forced out the retaining clips.
These pumps all work on the same principle, when the pump runs this operates the vacuum pump switch, when the belows are in one direction they close the contacts on the leaf switch that operate the relay on the PCB.
When the pump blows the fuses then a diode has gone short circuit and there are 4 of them near the connectors.
The over riding circuit that cuts the pump after 18 sec is the IC on the other end of the board.
When the pump motors go down there is no way of changing them and the pump is u/s,, It is possible to ues the pump from another model, or in fact the whole base as it is mainly the top cover that is different with more or less outputs
These pumps all work on the same principle, when the pump runs this operates the vacuum pump switch, when the belows are in one direction they close the contacts on the leaf switch that operate the relay on the PCB.
When the pump blows the fuses then a diode has gone short circuit and there are 4 of them near the connectors.
The over riding circuit that cuts the pump after 18 sec is the IC on the other end of the board.
When the pump motors go down there is no way of changing them and the pump is u/s,, It is possible to ues the pump from another model, or in fact the whole base as it is mainly the top cover that is different with more or less outputs
Attachments
OP
OP
punjabi
Active Member
Firstly, a big Thank You for all the advise - earlier today on a most pleasant morning since quite some time, I managed to replace the Central Locking pump and the system is working fine now. It was quite easy to pull out that 'clip' and disconnect the pipe connector. The whole procedure took about 20 minutes including a refreshment break of chilled lemon juice!
Dieselman
Banned
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Well done punjabi.
Sorry to hijack your thread but I was working on a 168 A class central locking system the other week and this reminds me to post.
On locking or unlocking the car the pump made what's best described as a..ahem...'farting noise' and over-ran for a short period. Sometimes the locking didn't work due to lack of pressure/vacuum.
I decided to take the pump apart to see.
Firstly the pipe connector unclips after sliding a locking bar out then the PSE can be lifted out of the holder and the pump turned over to reveal the screws.
The actual pump section is a Bakelite vane pump with four vanes. One of the vanes had stuck in so wasn't creating pressure/vacuum.
You can see the bottom vane is jammed in.
I released the vane and lubed with a spot of light oil and the pump was then functioning fully and silently again.
Sorry to hijack your thread but I was working on a 168 A class central locking system the other week and this reminds me to post.
On locking or unlocking the car the pump made what's best described as a..ahem...'farting noise' and over-ran for a short period. Sometimes the locking didn't work due to lack of pressure/vacuum.
I decided to take the pump apart to see.
Firstly the pipe connector unclips after sliding a locking bar out then the PSE can be lifted out of the holder and the pump turned over to reveal the screws.
The actual pump section is a Bakelite vane pump with four vanes. One of the vanes had stuck in so wasn't creating pressure/vacuum.
You can see the bottom vane is jammed in.
I released the vane and lubed with a spot of light oil and the pump was then functioning fully and silently again.
Last edited:
OP
OP
punjabi
Active Member
Interesting, D!
I will try to see if the faulty unit I removed has the same problem!
I will try to see if the faulty unit I removed has the same problem!
television
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
It would have been nice if the ones like Punjabi were like that, the motor and pump are tandem coupled, and no parts available
